Roland Franzius wrote:
> RF schrieb:
>> Roland Franzius wrote:
>>> RF schrieb:
>>>> Suddenly my brake and turn lights have decided to go on strike. All
>>>> other lights are ok.
>>>> I did a continuity test on all the fuses and they are ok. The bulbs
>>>> also seem ok.
>>>>
>>>> Anyone have a magic wand for diagnosing the root of this problem?
>>>
>>> Depends. Front turning lights ok? Turning and emergency lights relais
>>> (below ash tray) ticking?
>>>
>>
>> Thanks Guys. It's great to have such sup****t :-)
>>
>> Fuse Box: I can't find a ground on the fuse box and the wiring diagram
>> seems not to show one. There is a screw at the lower middle of the
>> fuse holders that seems attached to the chassis and, thinking it might
>> be a ground, I tested it but it is not. There is an infinite
>> resistance between it and the ground pole on the battery.
>>
>> Plug Connection Cable Harness: This is supposed to be somewhere at the
>> rear of the car and I remember accessing it way back. I removed the
>> spare wheel and the cover of the wheel well on the left side where the
>> cable comes through to the rear but it is not there. I also removed
>> the bulb holder brackets but no sign of it there either. Does anyone
>> know where it is supposed to be?
>
> Probably not the reason if the front lamps are dead too.
>
>
>> Turning lights: All dead and no clicking when arm is moved around.
>> Also dead: horn,
>> blinkers, brake lights, instrument panel lights.
>>
>> What does work: Main lights, dipped lights, side and parking lights,
>> radio, roof.
>
> If the sunroof is working cable 15 from ignition key to fuse holder and
> connection 15-16 inside fuseholder is ok.
>
> Sunroof is fuse c) and heating of back window d) at connection 16. 16 is
> connected to 15 inside the fuse box
>
> All other non working (including alternator loading lamp unfused)
> gadgets are at cable 15 at fuses 10 (air fan), 12 (fixed brake warning
> light, brake lights, turning/warning ligths), 14 (horn, backwards
> driving light).
>
> After turning the fuses in their sockets to remove oxidation check the
> voltage at cable 15 at ignition key and the fuses. Check the resistance
> with fuse removed.
>
> This is for the W123 240D.
>
Thank you Tiger and Roland.
I struggled for over an hour with that instrument
cluster. I pulled it out of its frame but it is
very difficult to get at the nuts behind it and a
mere half inch extra would have
made it simple. I'll have another try tomorrow.
Roland, I am a mechanical engineer and I have long
since learned that simple mechanisms are far more
reliable than any others. That's the reason that
my sunroof, windows, seats etc. are all mechanical
and they have never given me a problem and almost
certainly they never will.
Turning the fuses is an old and effective trick
but it did not work for me, so the problem lies
elsewhere. More work tomorrow.
Thanks again for the sup****t.
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