me wrote:
> "RF" <RF@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:691tvuF2t1h3qU1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Roland Franzius wrote:
>>> RF schrieb:
>>>> Roland Franzius wrote:
>>>>> RF schrieb:
>>>>>> Suddenly my brake and turn lights have decided to go on strike. All
>>>>>> other lights are ok.
>>>>>> I did a continuity test on all the fuses and they are ok. The bulbs
>>>>>> also seem ok.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Anyone have a magic wand for diagnosing the root of this problem?
>>>>> Depends. Front turning lights ok? Turning and emergency lights
relais
>>>>> (below ash tray) ticking?
>>>>>
>>>> Thanks Guys. It's great to have such sup****t :-)
>>>>
>>>> Fuse Box: I can't find a ground on the fuse box and the wiring
diagram
>>>> seems not to show one. There is a screw at the lower middle of the
fuse
>>>> holders that seems attached to the chassis and, thinking it might be
a
>>>> ground, I tested it but it is not. There is an infinite resistance
>>>> between it and the ground pole on the battery.
>>>>
>>>> Plug Connection Cable Harness: This is supposed to be somewhere at
the
>>>> rear of the car and I remember accessing it way back. I removed the
>>>> spare wheel and the cover of the wheel well on the left side where
the
>>>> cable comes through to the rear but it is not there. I also removed
the
>>>> bulb holder brackets but no sign of it there either. Does anyone know
>>>> where it is supposed to be?
>>> Probably not the reason if the front lamps are dead too.
>>>
>>>
>>>> Turning lights: All dead and no clicking when arm is moved around.
Also
>>>> dead: horn,
>>>> blinkers, brake lights, instrument panel lights.
>>>>
>>>> What does work: Main lights, dipped lights, side and parking lights,
>>>> radio, roof.
>>> If the sunroof is working cable 15 from ignition key to fuse holder
and
>>> connection 15-16 inside fuseholder is ok.
>>>
>>> Sunroof is fuse c) and heating of back window d) at connection 16. 16
is
>>> connected to 15 inside the fuse box
>>>
>>> All other non working (including alternator loading lamp unfused)
gadgets
>>> are at cable 15 at fuses 10 (air fan), 12 (fixed brake warning light,
>>> brake lights, turning/warning ligths), 14 (horn, backwards driving
>>> light).
>>>
>>> After turning the fuses in their sockets to remove oxidation check the
>>> voltage at cable 15 at ignition key and the fuses. Check the
resistance
>>> with fuse removed.
>>>
>>> This is for the W123 240D.
>>>
>> Thank you Tiger and Roland.
>>
>> I struggled for over an hour with that instrument cluster. I pulled it
out
>> of its frame but it is very difficult to get at the nuts behind it and
a
>> mere half inch extra would have
>> made it simple. I'll have another try tomorrow.
>>
>> Roland, I am a mechanical engineer and I have long since learned that
>> simple mechanisms are far more reliable than any others. That's the
reason
>> that my sunroof, windows, seats etc. are all mechanical and they have
>> never given me a problem and almost certainly they never will.
>>
>> Turning the fuses is an old and effective trick but it did not work for
>> me, so the problem lies elsewhere. More work tomorrow.
>>
>> Thanks again for the sup****t.
>
> Just a couple of thoughts; did someone install a trailer hitch on the
car at
> some point? I have seen some horribly butchered wiring associated with
> trailer lights, and grounds become problematic when they are disturbed.
>
> The other thought is that certain types of bulbs were known to cause
> problems in the Mercedes electrical system. I was told to only use OSRAM
> bulbs in my old 300.
Hi Me :-)
No trailer was ever hitched to it. I have had no
problems with small bulbs for years and
I have never been recommended to use Osram. The
four I just bought were Sylvania "Long Life." Now
all I need to do is to solve my wiring problem :-)
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