...or we could choose some more efficient cars with fewer cylinders and
HP's
!
/Jens
"RD" <wilh-dyb@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> skrev i en meddelelse
news:sqSdnatLsOrTta_aRVnzvQA@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> And not driving saves the world !!!!!!
>
> RD
>
>
> "Karl" <aufever@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> skrev i melding
> news:ci3Yi.19007$lD6.7220@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> So far today it is $97......
>>
>> Yes, it is a SCAM. The only way to save money is to NOT drive your car.
>>
>>
>> "Steve" <saveongasmormpg@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>> news:Tw0Yi.3149$_S5.1299@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> With the cost of crude oil hitting a new record of $100 a barrel, this
>>> is
>>> something you can't pass up! This is not a SCAM and can save you real
>>> money. A quick down and dirty of how this works:
>>> 1st - By using this product, engine efficiency is gained. You will
see
>>> 7%
>>> to 14% increases in your gas milage.
>>>
>>> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>>>
>>> 2nd - No longer use the high grade of Gasoline. This in itself saves
>> quite
>>> a bit of money since 87 octane is ALOT cheaper than 92. Once your
>>> engine
>> is
>>> conditioned to the formula (Which only takes a little while) You can
>>> start
>>> using the cheap gas.
>>>
>>> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>>>
>>> 3rd - Even if you do not buy my product, I have prepared a special
Tips
>> and
>>> Secrets to saving on MPG without my product! I believe in this
product
>>> so
>>> much that if you use it, and follow the 23 tips I outline below, you
>>> will
>>> save a fortune over the coming year! Even if you do not use the
>>> product,
>>> remember that following these 23 simple tips makes for a huge money
>>> saver
>> as
>>> well! I am looking out for the rest of us because, "I TOO AM TIRED OF
>>> PAYING ALMOST 4 DOLLARS A GALLON!" It is ridiculous, and until we can
>>> finally get off of gasoline, there looks to be no end in site to the
>> rising
>>> of oil prices!
>>> 4th - Earn extra income by becoming a reseller of this fantastic
>>> product!
>>> Sign up on my webpage to become a reseller.
>>>
>>> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>>>
>>> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>>>
>>> As Promised, even if you don't buy my product at least follow these
>> helpful
>>> tips and secrets. IT WILL HELP US ALL SAVE IN THE LONG RUN!
>>>
>>> 1. Anticipate, use your brakes less, and don't accelerate
quickly.
>>> Look far down the road ahead, even if "far" means half a city block.
>>> Get
>>> into position for turn-lanes smoothly and early so that you don't have
>>> to
>>> accelerate to get in front of traffic. Remember that the guy who
leaves
>> the
>>> stoplight the quickest also pays more at the pump. Anticipate stops
or
>>> slow-downs ahead and take your foot off the gas: try to coast much
more
>> than
>>> you brake.
>>> See a long train at the RR crossing ahead? Get your foot off the gas
>>> immediately. You can idle forward in Drive for a long way (without
>>> braking), for ~30% less fuel than sitting in Drive, and nearly the
same
>> fuel
>>> use as sitting in Park.
>>> Remember: any additional distance you coast will save fuel and extend
>>> your
>>> brake-pad life.
>>>
>>> 2. Minimize idling, and idle smart: Engines only need 10 to 30
>> seconds
>>> for warm-up, and idling your engine for more than a minute typically
>>> costs
>>> more fuel than re-starting it. So avoid the drive-thru lines at the
>>> bank
>>> and the fast-food shop: instead of sitting in line, park and go
inside.
>>> BUT, when you must idle with an automatic transmission, put the
>> transmission
>>> in Neutral or Park while you're waiting: this will cut your fuel usage
>>> at
>>> idle by 15-35% depending on the vehicle. If you have a manual
>> transmission,
>>> don't use the clutch to keep from rolling back - use the brake. This
>>> will
>>> save fuel and extend your clutch life.
>>>
>>> 3. Use Cruise Control. It's proven to save fuel. But here's a
>>> secret... it's not just for cruising. Using the "Resume" button on
your
>>> cruise control can be a handy compromise to provide reasonable
>> acceleration
>>> times that don't irritate drivers behind you, without wasting
excessive
>>> fuel.
>>>
>>> 4. Overdrive and gear selection. If you have an automatic with
>>> Overdrive, use the Overdrive. If you have a manual transmission,
shift
>>> early to keep engine rpm's lower and be sure to use the highest gear
for
>>> highway cruising.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 5. Slow down. As you increase speed above 60 mph, wind
resistance
>>> starts increasing dramatically as a percentage of total fuel
>>> consumption.
>>> Estimates are that every mile over 60 mph costs you 1% in fuel
economy.
>> In
>>> other words, when you speed, you're paying more at the gas pump.
>>>
>>> 6. Watch your tire choice. Replacing your tires/wheels with
wider
>>> and/or taller ones may look awesome, but keep in mind that your choice
>> could
>>> have a 1 to 3% penalty in fuel economy... or even more in extreme
cases
>> like
>>> "monster truck" tires/wheels.
>>>
>>>
>>> 7. Carefully consider your route and the time of day: traffic
flow
>>> is
>> a
>>> huge factor.
>>> For example, see the picture to the right. Those
>>> vehicle-following-distances are typical of traffic in many large
cities.
>> If
>>> this highway traffic is stop-and-go, fuel economy will be bad. On the
>> other
>>> extreme, if the traffic is moving smoothly and fast (at 60 - 80 mph),
>>> then
>>> your fuel economy is going to be superb: those rushing vehicles create
a
>>> jet-stream of air which dramatically reduces your wind-drag losses -
10
>>> to
>>> 30% improvements are possible. For maximum fuel economy, follow a
>>> larger
>>> vehicle and use your cruise control (just bump speed up/down 1 mph to
>>> adjust). Also, keep in mind the wind direction: if there's a strong
>>> wind
>>> blowing in from the right, and you drive in the right lane, you get no
>> break
>>> in wind resistance.
>>>
>>> 8. Plan and Combine errands to make fewer trips. Think like
your
>>> great-grandparents did. Plan meals and grocery shop once a week or
>>> twice
>> a
>>> month; just make a list of other errands during the week, plan your
>>> route,
>>> and do it all on the same day. Dropping off the kids at practice?
>> Arrange
>>> with other parents to carpool or to pick them up for you.
>>> Such planning may seem like work at first, but it will give you more
>>> free
>>> time, help you relax, and can improve your average fuel economy by 5
to
>> 15%.
>>> It can also cut your average weekly mileage by 20% or more. Total
>>> dollar
>>> potential: save 10-35% of monthly fuel costs.
>>> How does this help fuel economy? During the first several miles while
>>> warming up, the engine and transmission are not operating at full
>>> efficiency. This is why city fuel economy can drop dramatically in
cold
>>> weather, when it can take 10 miles for the transmission to warm up.
>>> Automatic transmissions in particular can be huge power hogs when
fluid
>>> is
>>> cold (hot/cold temperatures are one of many reasons to use a
>> full-synthetic
>>> 100,000-mile transmission fluid - see more on this below), and manual
>>> transmissions can feel like you're shifting in molasses. Combining
two
>>> or
>>> three trips into one will not only reduce the miles you drive, but
will
>> get
>>> you better fuel economy on the way.
>>>
>>> 9. Use air conditioning wisely. In city driving, it's cheaper to
>>> use
>>> the vents and/or roll the windows down. But at highway speeds, it's a
>>> different story: rolling the windows down will cost you more fuel than
>> using
>>> the air conditioner. These factors can affect fuel economy by ~ 1-5%.
>>>
>>> 10. Buy fuel wisely. Ok, this isn't actually improving your fuel
>> economy,
>>> but there are several things to save money on: Filling up on Tuesday
>>> afternoon or Wednesday morning will normally save you money: those are
>>> typically the lowest prices of the week. Also, filling up in the
>>> morning
>>> when the fuel is cooler will get you a few extra cents of fuel. So
your
>>> best time to fill up is - on average - Wednesday morning. Don't "top
>>> off"
>>> your tank: you risk losing fuel to the station's vapor-recovery
system,
>>> giving them back some of what you're paying for.
>>>
>>> 11. Use a good fuel additive. Injectors with excessive deposits have
>> poor
>>> spray patterns that can cost you 2 to 15% in fuel economy. Those
>>> deposits
>>> are caused by poor quality fuel. Since '95 the EPA has required all
>>> gasoline to have deposit-control additives. But as fuel quality
control
>>> capabilities have improved over the years, average fuel quality has
>> dropped
>>> steadily. Now about half of all fuel on the market is Lowest Additive
>>> Concentration (LAC) gasoline, which barely meets the regulation and
>>> contributes to excessive deposits. What can you do? First, if your
>> vehicle
>>> is designed for premium gas, and you use premium, your injectors may
be
>>> fine: many premium fuels include much higher additive levels that are
>>> effective at keeping injectors clean. However, what if you don't use
>>> premium? Use "Top Tier" detergent gas if you can find it, because
this
>> new
>>> class of fuel meets the 2004 GM/Honda/Toyota/BMW deposit control
>>> standard.
>>> Shell states that all their gas grades meet the Top Tier standard.
>>> If you don't need to pay for premium and Top Tier isn't available, you
>>> probably need an additive. BEWARE: there are a lot of mousey fuel
>> additive
>>> products in ads and on store shelves that generate ridiculous sales
>> profits
>>> but don't do much for your vehicle. Find a good one that will clean
>>> your
>>> injectors, keep them clean, and (for diesels) lubricate your fuel
pump.
>>> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>>>
>>>
>>> 12. Lose some weight! Reduce your vehicle's weight: clean out the
>>> trunk
>>> (and maybe the back seat). Summer snow-chains and tools from that
>>> weekend
>>> project two months ago is costing you fuel! For every 200 pounds in
>>> your
>>> trunk, it costs you roughly 1 mpg.
>>>
>>> 13. Don't drive! Carpool, occasionally ride a bicycle or walk,
>> telecommute
>>> for part of your work-week, or take public transportation.
>>>
>>> 14. Shift your work-hours to avoid gridlock. Stop-and-go traffic is
>>> hard
>>> on fuel economy. Try to arrange traveling to/from work when traffic
>>> flow
>> is
>>> running smoothly at the speed limit.
>>>
>>> 15. Park in the Shade: The hotter the fuel tank gets, the more gas
you
>>> lose to evaporation.
>>>
>>> 16. Smart vacation thinking: If your vehicle is a gas guzzler,
>>> consider
>>> renting an economical vehicle to drive on vacation. With a discounted
>>> week-long rate at better fuel economy, the rental might pay for
itself.
>> If
>>> you lease your vehicle, using a rental vehicle will also lower your
>>> total
>>> lease miles.
>>>
>>> 17. Keep a log of your mileage and fuel. I've done this for years,
>>> first
>>> in vehicle expense record books, and later with a program in my Palm
>>> PDA.
>>> One advantage is that you can monitor your fuel economy and driving
>> habits.
>>> Not only can you learn the cost benefits of changing your driving
style,
>> but
>>> you can spot the poor fuel economy that is often a first-alert to
>>> maintenance issues. In addition, as you make changes to improve fuel
>>> economy, you can measure the exact results (averaged over a few
fill-ups
>> for
>>> better accuracy).
>>>
>>>
>>> Second: vehicle MAINTENANCE & UPGRADES.
>>> These areas often get skipped in recommendations on getting better
fuel
>>> economy, and that's unfortunate because they can have huge impacts.
In
>>> fact, that's why I'm providing this list - so that you can learn about
>> these
>>> missing areas.
>>> These all fall into two general ways to improve fuel economy:
>>> - decrease friction in the vehicle's drivetrain (engine, transmission,
>>> differential, wheel bearings);
>>> - make it easier for air to flow through the engine, anywhere between
>>> the
>>> air intake and the exhaust tailpipe.
>>>
>>> These are the same areas that performance-enthusiasts improve to get
>>> more
>>> horsepower. I recently spoke with a Lexus mechanic who owns a Dodge
>>> 2500
>>> pickup with the Cummins turbo-diesel engine. He was quite surprised
>>> that
>>> with his many thousands of dollars of horsepower upgrades, even
running
>>> large tires and higher ground-clearance, he was getting about 23 mpg.
>>> "Every time I increased the power, the fuel economy improved." No
>> surprise
>>> to me: except for the tires, he was also increasing his engine's
>> efficiency
>>> with nearly every power upgrade.
>>>
>>> 18. Keep your engine tuned up. If you have a dashboard
service-engine
>>> light on, you're typically wasting fuel: for example, bad Oxygen
Sensors
>> are
>>> a classic problem that can cost you 5-15% in fuel economy. Overall,
>>> poor
>>> engine tuning and lack of maintenance will often decrease fuel economy
>>> by
>>> 10-20%, and it can be even worse in some cases.
>>>
>>> 19. Inflate your tires to their optimum: HIGHER pressures than
>>> "normal".
>>> Besides improving fuel economy, this will improve handling, increase
>> safety,
>>> and increase tire life. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by
>>> 0.4
>>> percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires.
>>> Over 90% of car tires on the road are under-inflated, and this costs
>>> money
>>> in both fuel and in shortened tire life. "Experts" generally define
the
>>> "proper" pressure as the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation, and
>>> that's
>>> what most service shops try to follow. Who can blame them when even
the
>>> government says to follow inflation pressures on the vehicle's OEM
>> (Original
>>> Equipment Manufacturer) door sticker? Unfortunately, that's seldom
>> correct.
>>> OEM wheel/tire combinations for most passenger cars and light trucks
>>> are
>>> designed by the tire manufacturer for even tread pressure on the
ground
>> when
>>> inflated to between 35 and 42 psi [pounds per square inch]: far more
>>> than
>>> the recommended 28 to 33 psi that you'll find in many owner's manuals
or
>> on
>>> door-jamb labels. If your tires normally wear the tread off the
>>> shoulder
>>> before the center of the tire, you can be certain that your tires are
>>> under-inflated.
>>>
>>> Vehicle manufacturers like to get the cushy ride quality by using
>>> under-inflated tires, rather than by using more expensive shocks,
>>> springs
>>> and suspension designs. What YOU need is even road-contact pressure
>> across
>>> the tread, because that gives you maximum tire life, better fuel
>>> economy,
>>> best performance in bad weather, and best overall handling and
cornering
>>> characteristics. If you look closely on many tires, you'll see a
>> reference
>>> to 35 psi and a maximum pressure of 44 psi. So as long as you don't
put
>>> more than 44 psi in your tires, you're fine.
>>> So how much air pressure should you use? How do you figure it out?
>>> First
>>> of all, buy a digital pressure gauge - there are a lot of them for
>>> $8-20,
>>> typically accurate to a half psi or less. Or, you can use a
>> mechanical-type
>>> gauge if it has a LARGE round dial. These bourdon-tube gauges are
>>> capable
>>> of good accuracy, but check the packaging to see how accurately it's
>>> calibrated. Whatever you do, DON'T use a straight "stick" air
pressure
>>> gauge. Inconsistent and inaccurate, stick gauges often read 2 to 10
psi
>>> higher than actual pressure, meaning your tires will always be
>>> under-inflated by at least that amount.
>>> Next, inflate your front tires to about 40 psi and your rear tires to
>> about
>>> 38 psi. (Most vehicles are heavier in the front than in the rear. If
>> yours
>>> isn't, maybe from stuff you haul in the truck-bed or trunk, then use
the
>>> same pressure in all four tires.) Then watch how your tires wear.
The
>>> ultimate is to buy a simple tire tread depth-gauge (max $6), and use
it
>>> to
>>> check tread depth in the center, and near each "shoulder" of the tire
>> (near
>>> the inside and outside edges). If your tires wear more quickly on the
>>> edges, increase your air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. If they wear more
>> quickly
>>> in the center, then decrease the air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. Most
tires
>>> like to be in the 38-40 psi range, but if you put a wider tire on a
>>> stock-width rim, you'll normally have to drop the air pressure to
>> compensate
>>> and get an even pressure "pad" across the tread.
>>>
>>> Results? By our conservative estimates, most passenger vehicles are
>> riding
>>> on tires that are 8 psi low. (That 20% difference can decrease tire
>>> life
>> by
>>> an estimated 30% per the Technical Maintenance Council.) So overall,
>>> bumping your tire pressure up to the optimum will likely give you a 3%
>>> increase in fuel economy, depending on your vehicle, tires, and
current
>> air
>>> pressure. You'll also get longer tire life. Be sure to check/adjust
>>> your
>>> tire pressure monthly, increase tire pressure temporarily when you're
>>> carrying loads, and rotate your tires twice a year or every 10,000
>>> miles.
>>> For more complete details on proper tire care, visit this excellent
>> article
>>>
>>
<http://www.rma.org/tire_safety/tire_maintenance_and_safety/tire_safety_broc
>> hure/tire_care_and_safety.cfm>.
>>> 20. Switch to best-quality synthetic oils and filters throughout your
>>> drivetrain: engine oil, transmission fluid, differential gear oil and
>> wheel
>>> bearing grease. This advice - to use the best synthetic lubricants -
is
>>> drastically neglected, yet it's an EASY area to save a lot of money.
>>> However, it's not a simple area to understand, so here's a brief
primer
>>> on
>>> synthetic lubricants.
>>>
>>> The number of vehicle owners turning to synthetic engine oil has
>>> increased
>>> dramatically, which is very good news for consumers because synthetics
>>> are
>>> better than petroleum products in every way, BY DESIGN.
>>>
>>> But consumers don't realize THREE KEY THINGS:
>>>
>>> First, that the benefits of synthetics extend to every lubrication
area
>>> in
>>> the vehicle, including ball-joint grease. For example, most
>>> differentials
>>> and transmissions fail because their fluid has failed, either because
>>> the
>>> fluid hasn't been changed frequently enough, or because the fluid
>> overheated
>>> in towing. Synthetic transmission fluid helps hugely to prevent
>>> problems,
>>> and naturally saves fuel at the same time. My '94 Taurus SHO got 10%
>> better
>>> car fuel economy with engine oil and transmission fluid change, my '02
>>> Sierra 2500HD Duramax got 8% better truck fuel economy with just
>>> synthetic
>>> engine and differential fluids, and a friend's '99 Olds Silhouette van
>>> picked up 20% just by changing to synthetic engine oil - saving over
>> $600/yr
>>> in fuel
>>>
>>> 21. Improve airflow AROUND your vehicle:
>>> - Keep your windows rolled up at speeds over 40 mph: you'll feel a lot
>>> of
>>> air turbulence around the window, and the air-conditioning is probably
>>> cheaper than the fuel-economy penalty in additional wind-drag.
>>> - Turn off the air and roll down the windows at speeds under 40 mph in
>>> the
>>> summer heat: the additional wind-drag is cheaper than the
>> air-conditioning.
>>> - Consider adding a truck bed cover, either soft-type or hardshell:
they
>> can
>>> give you a 1 to 2 mpg boost. What about dropping your tailgate to
>>> travel,
>>> or buying an "air gate" net or louvered tailgate to replace the stock
>> part?
>>> Those are not as reliable - results depend on the vehicle
aerodynamics,
>> bed
>>> length, and the size and shape of what you do (or don't) have in the
>>> truck
>>> bed.
>>> - Reduce air turbulence under your vehicle: "Off-road" packages which
>>> include protective underbody "skid plate" features, or "ground
effects"
>>> styling packages can help enough to add 1-5% in fuel economy. The
>> downside
>>> is that these can make the vehicle more difficult to work on.
>>> - Adding an air deflector to the roof of your vehicle when towing will
>> also
>>> add 1 to 3 mpg, but keep in mind that it will also reduce your
>>> non-towing
>>> fuel economy by about the same amount if it's still on the vehicle
when
>>> you're NOT towing. (These air deflectors improve fuel economy by
>>> helping
>> to
>>> "kick" the air up over the trailer, reducing the trailer's wind-drag.)
>>> - Loaded roof racks or cargo pods can cut 5% or more off your fuel
>> economy.
>>> A cargo rack that slides into a trailer hitch allows you to carry
extra
>>> stuff, still get into your trunk, and use less fuel.
>>> - Sunroof air-deflectors can be handy, but they do cost you a bit of
>> money.
>>> Removing the air deflector might save 1/4 to 3/4% in fuel economy.
>>>
>>> 22. Improve airflow into the engine. This can happen in several
stages
>> of
>>> increasing complexity, but the first place is the air filter, where
air
>>> enters your engine. If your filter is dirty, that reduces fuel
>>> economy -
>> up
>>> to 10% in the worst cases. However, there's a conflicting problem.
>>> Conventional filters should NOT be replaced before the OEM's
recommended
>>> interval or they will increase your engine wear rate: they rely on the
>> "dust
>>> cake" buildup to achieve effective filtration, which can reduce fuel
>>> economy.
>>>
>>> Easy: Here's an easy "no-brainer" improvement: Replace your air
filter
>> with
>>> nanofiber filters born from military/aerospace technology. (Released
in
>>> 2005 with worldwide patents, reasonably priced, with a huge percentage
>>> of
>>> applications covered and still growing in 2007.) You get pressure
drop
>>> nearly as low as an oiled gauze filter while filtering out 100% of
wear
>>> particles down to 3 microns (for real). Clean with an annual
>>> tap/shake/vacuum. No warranty problems. .
>>>
>>> 23. Improve airflow out of the engine: Install an aftermarket
exhaust
>>> system. These have larger diameter pipes and larger, less restrictive
>>> mufflers. My point isn't to get louder, but to reduce "backpressure"
>> losses
>>> which cut down on horsepower, torque and fuel-economy. Since
increased
>>> noise is typical, and some systems are intentionally designed to be
>>> loud,
>>> you may want to shop for the exhaust sounds you do or don't want.
Borla
>>> <http://www.borla.com>
is my personal high-quality favorite, because
>>> they
>>> tastefully design for great improvement without being overly loud.
>>> Keep in mind that on turbo-charged engines, anything you do to improve
>> flow
>>> (reduce backpressure) through the exhaust system will pay rewards in
>>> increased turbo pressure, faster spool-up, and of course, better fuel
>>> economy. So if a larger down-pipe out of the turbo is an available
>> option,
>>> take it: that's a useful upgrade that is sometimes overlooked.
>>>
>>> Upgrade to a more fuel-efficient vehicle. But be cautious. Everyone
>> wants
>>> to make money from your vehicle change, so be sure to look out for
your
>> best
>>> interests. There are several ways to do this. First, beware of
>>> sticker
>>> price. Spending a lot more money to get more fuel economy may not
begin
>> to
>>> pay you back before you sell the vehicle. Hint: hybrids are getting
>>> "hot"
>> in
>>> the market, but they are often not worth the money. One reason is
>>> initial
>>> cost penalty, another is unrealistic fuel-economy claims, and another
is
>>> high replacement costs for the big battery packs that these vehicles
use
>> to
>>> store and transfer energy. If that 56 mpg turns out to really be 41
mpg
>> as
>>> a recent long-term test did in the '05 Toyota Prius vehicle (Car and
>> Driver
>>> magazine), and you spent $6k more than an equivalent non-hybrid, and
>> you're
>>> faced with a $2,300 battery replacement bill after 3 years and you
only
>> keep
>>> it for 4 or 5 years... well, the 36 mpg standard vehicle was a better
>> deal.
>>
>>
>
>
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