So far today it is $97......
Yes, it is a SCAM. The only way to save money is to NOT drive your car.
"Steve" <saveongasmormpg@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:Tw0Yi.3149$_S5.1299@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> With the cost of crude oil hitting a new record of $100 a barrel, this
is
> something you can't pass up! This is not a SCAM and can save you real
> money. A quick down and dirty of how this works:
> 1st - By using this product, engine efficiency is gained. You will see
7%
> to 14% increases in your gas milage.
>
> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>
> 2nd - No longer use the high grade of Gasoline. This in itself saves
quite
> a bit of money since 87 octane is ALOT cheaper than 92. Once your
engine
is
> conditioned to the formula (Which only takes a little while) You can
start
> using the cheap gas.
>
> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>
> 3rd - Even if you do not buy my product, I have prepared a special Tips
and
> Secrets to saving on MPG without my product! I believe in this product
so
> much that if you use it, and follow the 23 tips I outline below, you
will
> save a fortune over the coming year! Even if you do not use the
product,
> remember that following these 23 simple tips makes for a huge money
saver
as
> well! I am looking out for the rest of us because, "I TOO AM TIRED OF
> PAYING ALMOST 4 DOLLARS A GALLON!" It is ridiculous, and until we can
> finally get off of gasoline, there looks to be no end in site to the
rising
> of oil prices!
> 4th - Earn extra income by becoming a reseller of this fantastic
product!
> Sign up on my webpage to become a reseller.
>
> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>
> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>
> As Promised, even if you don't buy my product at least follow these
helpful
> tips and secrets. IT WILL HELP US ALL SAVE IN THE LONG RUN!
>
> 1. Anticipate, use your brakes less, and don't accelerate quickly.
> Look far down the road ahead, even if "far" means half a city block.
Get
> into position for turn-lanes smoothly and early so that you don't have
to
> accelerate to get in front of traffic. Remember that the guy who leaves
the
> stoplight the quickest also pays more at the pump. Anticipate stops or
> slow-downs ahead and take your foot off the gas: try to coast much more
than
> you brake.
> See a long train at the RR crossing ahead? Get your foot off the gas
> immediately. You can idle forward in Drive for a long way (without
> braking), for ~30% less fuel than sitting in Drive, and nearly the same
fuel
> use as sitting in Park.
> Remember: any additional distance you coast will save fuel and extend
your
> brake-pad life.
>
> 2. Minimize idling, and idle smart: Engines only need 10 to 30
seconds
> for warm-up, and idling your engine for more than a minute typically
costs
> more fuel than re-starting it. So avoid the drive-thru lines at the
bank
> and the fast-food shop: instead of sitting in line, park and go inside.
> BUT, when you must idle with an automatic transmission, put the
transmission
> in Neutral or Park while you're waiting: this will cut your fuel usage
at
> idle by 15-35% depending on the vehicle. If you have a manual
transmission,
> don't use the clutch to keep from rolling back - use the brake. This
will
> save fuel and extend your clutch life.
>
> 3. Use Cruise Control. It's proven to save fuel. But here's a
> secret... it's not just for cruising. Using the "Resume" button on your
> cruise control can be a handy compromise to provide reasonable
acceleration
> times that don't irritate drivers behind you, without wasting excessive
> fuel.
>
> 4. Overdrive and gear selection. If you have an automatic with
> Overdrive, use the Overdrive. If you have a manual transmission, shift
> early to keep engine rpm's lower and be sure to use the highest gear for
> highway cruising.
>
>
>
> 5. Slow down. As you increase speed above 60 mph, wind resistance
> starts increasing dramatically as a percentage of total fuel
consumption.
> Estimates are that every mile over 60 mph costs you 1% in fuel economy.
In
> other words, when you speed, you're paying more at the gas pump.
>
> 6. Watch your tire choice. Replacing your tires/wheels with wider
> and/or taller ones may look awesome, but keep in mind that your choice
could
> have a 1 to 3% penalty in fuel economy... or even more in extreme cases
like
> "monster truck" tires/wheels.
>
>
> 7. Carefully consider your route and the time of day: traffic flow
is
a
> huge factor.
> For example, see the picture to the right. Those
> vehicle-following-distances are typical of traffic in many large cities.
If
> this highway traffic is stop-and-go, fuel economy will be bad. On the
other
> extreme, if the traffic is moving smoothly and fast (at 60 - 80 mph),
then
> your fuel economy is going to be superb: those rushing vehicles create a
> jet-stream of air which dramatically reduces your wind-drag losses - 10
to
> 30% improvements are possible. For maximum fuel economy, follow a
larger
> vehicle and use your cruise control (just bump speed up/down 1 mph to
> adjust). Also, keep in mind the wind direction: if there's a strong
wind
> blowing in from the right, and you drive in the right lane, you get no
break
> in wind resistance.
>
> 8. Plan and Combine errands to make fewer trips. Think like your
> great-grandparents did. Plan meals and grocery shop once a week or
twice
a
> month; just make a list of other errands during the week, plan your
route,
> and do it all on the same day. Dropping off the kids at practice?
Arrange
> with other parents to carpool or to pick them up for you.
> Such planning may seem like work at first, but it will give you more
free
> time, help you relax, and can improve your average fuel economy by 5 to
15%.
> It can also cut your average weekly mileage by 20% or more. Total
dollar
> potential: save 10-35% of monthly fuel costs.
> How does this help fuel economy? During the first several miles while
> warming up, the engine and transmission are not operating at full
> efficiency. This is why city fuel economy can drop dramatically in cold
> weather, when it can take 10 miles for the transmission to warm up.
> Automatic transmissions in particular can be huge power hogs when fluid
is
> cold (hot/cold temperatures are one of many reasons to use a
full-synthetic
> 100,000-mile transmission fluid - see more on this below), and manual
> transmissions can feel like you're shifting in molasses. Combining two
or
> three trips into one will not only reduce the miles you drive, but will
get
> you better fuel economy on the way.
>
> 9. Use air conditioning wisely. In city driving, it's cheaper to
use
> the vents and/or roll the windows down. But at highway speeds, it's a
> different story: rolling the windows down will cost you more fuel than
using
> the air conditioner. These factors can affect fuel economy by ~ 1-5%.
>
> 10. Buy fuel wisely. Ok, this isn't actually improving your fuel
economy,
> but there are several things to save money on: Filling up on Tuesday
> afternoon or Wednesday morning will normally save you money: those are
> typically the lowest prices of the week. Also, filling up in the
morning
> when the fuel is cooler will get you a few extra cents of fuel. So your
> best time to fill up is - on average - Wednesday morning. Don't "top
off"
> your tank: you risk losing fuel to the station's vapor-recovery system,
> giving them back some of what you're paying for.
>
> 11. Use a good fuel additive. Injectors with excessive deposits have
poor
> spray patterns that can cost you 2 to 15% in fuel economy. Those
deposits
> are caused by poor quality fuel. Since '95 the EPA has required all
> gasoline to have deposit-control additives. But as fuel quality control
> capabilities have improved over the years, average fuel quality has
dropped
> steadily. Now about half of all fuel on the market is Lowest Additive
> Concentration (LAC) gasoline, which barely meets the regulation and
> contributes to excessive deposits. What can you do? First, if your
vehicle
> is designed for premium gas, and you use premium, your injectors may be
> fine: many premium fuels include much higher additive levels that are
> effective at keeping injectors clean. However, what if you don't use
> premium? Use "Top Tier" detergent gas if you can find it, because this
new
> class of fuel meets the 2004 GM/Honda/Toyota/BMW deposit control
standard.
> Shell states that all their gas grades meet the Top Tier standard.
> If you don't need to pay for premium and Top Tier isn't available, you
> probably need an additive. BEWARE: there are a lot of mousey fuel
additive
> products in ads and on store shelves that generate ridiculous sales
profits
> but don't do much for your vehicle. Find a good one that will clean
your
> injectors, keep them clean, and (for diesels) lubricate your fuel pump.
> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>
>
> 12. Lose some weight! Reduce your vehicle's weight: clean out the
trunk
> (and maybe the back seat). Summer snow-chains and tools from that
weekend
> project two months ago is costing you fuel! For every 200 pounds in
your
> trunk, it costs you roughly 1 mpg.
>
> 13. Don't drive! Carpool, occasionally ride a bicycle or walk,
telecommute
> for part of your work-week, or take public transportation.
>
> 14. Shift your work-hours to avoid gridlock. Stop-and-go traffic is
hard
> on fuel economy. Try to arrange traveling to/from work when traffic
flow
is
> running smoothly at the speed limit.
>
> 15. Park in the Shade: The hotter the fuel tank gets, the more gas you
> lose to evaporation.
>
> 16. Smart vacation thinking: If your vehicle is a gas guzzler,
consider
> renting an economical vehicle to drive on vacation. With a discounted
> week-long rate at better fuel economy, the rental might pay for itself.
If
> you lease your vehicle, using a rental vehicle will also lower your
total
> lease miles.
>
> 17. Keep a log of your mileage and fuel. I've done this for years,
first
> in vehicle expense record books, and later with a program in my Palm
PDA.
> One advantage is that you can monitor your fuel economy and driving
habits.
> Not only can you learn the cost benefits of changing your driving style,
but
> you can spot the poor fuel economy that is often a first-alert to
> maintenance issues. In addition, as you make changes to improve fuel
> economy, you can measure the exact results (averaged over a few fill-ups
for
> better accuracy).
>
>
> Second: vehicle MAINTENANCE & UPGRADES.
> These areas often get skipped in recommendations on getting better fuel
> economy, and that's unfortunate because they can have huge impacts. In
> fact, that's why I'm providing this list - so that you can learn about
these
> missing areas.
> These all fall into two general ways to improve fuel economy:
> - decrease friction in the vehicle's drivetrain (engine, transmission,
> differential, wheel bearings);
> - make it easier for air to flow through the engine, anywhere between
the
> air intake and the exhaust tailpipe.
>
> These are the same areas that performance-enthusiasts improve to get
more
> horsepower. I recently spoke with a Lexus mechanic who owns a Dodge
2500
> pickup with the Cummins turbo-diesel engine. He was quite surprised
that
> with his many thousands of dollars of horsepower upgrades, even running
> large tires and higher ground-clearance, he was getting about 23 mpg.
> "Every time I increased the power, the fuel economy improved." No
surprise
> to me: except for the tires, he was also increasing his engine's
efficiency
> with nearly every power upgrade.
>
> 18. Keep your engine tuned up. If you have a dashboard service-engine
> light on, you're typically wasting fuel: for example, bad Oxygen Sensors
are
> a classic problem that can cost you 5-15% in fuel economy. Overall,
poor
> engine tuning and lack of maintenance will often decrease fuel economy
by
> 10-20%, and it can be even worse in some cases.
>
> 19. Inflate your tires to their optimum: HIGHER pressures than
"normal".
> Besides improving fuel economy, this will improve handling, increase
safety,
> and increase tire life. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by
0.4
> percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires.
> Over 90% of car tires on the road are under-inflated, and this costs
money
> in both fuel and in shortened tire life. "Experts" generally define the
> "proper" pressure as the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation, and
that's
> what most service shops try to follow. Who can blame them when even the
> government says to follow inflation pressures on the vehicle's OEM
(Original
> Equipment Manufacturer) door sticker? Unfortunately, that's seldom
correct.
> OEM wheel/tire combinations for most passenger cars and light trucks
are
> designed by the tire manufacturer for even tread pressure on the ground
when
> inflated to between 35 and 42 psi [pounds per square inch]: far more
than
> the recommended 28 to 33 psi that you'll find in many owner's manuals or
on
> door-jamb labels. If your tires normally wear the tread off the
shoulder
> before the center of the tire, you can be certain that your tires are
> under-inflated.
>
> Vehicle manufacturers like to get the cushy ride quality by using
> under-inflated tires, rather than by using more expensive shocks,
springs
> and suspension designs. What YOU need is even road-contact pressure
across
> the tread, because that gives you maximum tire life, better fuel
economy,
> best performance in bad weather, and best overall handling and cornering
> characteristics. If you look closely on many tires, you'll see a
reference
> to 35 psi and a maximum pressure of 44 psi. So as long as you don't put
> more than 44 psi in your tires, you're fine.
> So how much air pressure should you use? How do you figure it out?
First
> of all, buy a digital pressure gauge - there are a lot of them for
$8-20,
> typically accurate to a half psi or less. Or, you can use a
mechanical-type
> gauge if it has a LARGE round dial. These bourdon-tube gauges are
capable
> of good accuracy, but check the packaging to see how accurately it's
> calibrated. Whatever you do, DON'T use a straight "stick" air pressure
> gauge. Inconsistent and inaccurate, stick gauges often read 2 to 10 psi
> higher than actual pressure, meaning your tires will always be
> under-inflated by at least that amount.
> Next, inflate your front tires to about 40 psi and your rear tires to
about
> 38 psi. (Most vehicles are heavier in the front than in the rear. If
yours
> isn't, maybe from stuff you haul in the truck-bed or trunk, then use the
> same pressure in all four tires.) Then watch how your tires wear. The
> ultimate is to buy a simple tire tread depth-gauge (max $6), and use it
to
> check tread depth in the center, and near each "shoulder" of the tire
(near
> the inside and outside edges). If your tires wear more quickly on the
> edges, increase your air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. If they wear more
quickly
> in the center, then decrease the air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. Most tires
> like to be in the 38-40 psi range, but if you put a wider tire on a
> stock-width rim, you'll normally have to drop the air pressure to
compensate
> and get an even pressure "pad" across the tread.
>
> Results? By our conservative estimates, most passenger vehicles are
riding
> on tires that are 8 psi low. (That 20% difference can decrease tire
life
by
> an estimated 30% per the Technical Maintenance Council.) So overall,
> bumping your tire pressure up to the optimum will likely give you a 3%
> increase in fuel economy, depending on your vehicle, tires, and current
air
> pressure. You'll also get longer tire life. Be sure to check/adjust
your
> tire pressure monthly, increase tire pressure temporarily when you're
> carrying loads, and rotate your tires twice a year or every 10,000
miles.
> For more complete details on proper tire care, visit this excellent
article
>
<http://www.rma.org/tire_safety/tire_maintenance_and_safety/tire_safety_broc
hure/tire_care_and_safety.cfm>.
> 20. Switch to best-quality synthetic oils and filters throughout your
> drivetrain: engine oil, transmission fluid, differential gear oil and
wheel
> bearing grease. This advice - to use the best synthetic lubricants - is
> drastically neglected, yet it's an EASY area to save a lot of money.
> However, it's not a simple area to understand, so here's a brief primer
on
> synthetic lubricants.
>
> The number of vehicle owners turning to synthetic engine oil has
increased
> dramatically, which is very good news for consumers because synthetics
are
> better than petroleum products in every way, BY DESIGN.
>
> But consumers don't realize THREE KEY THINGS:
>
> First, that the benefits of synthetics extend to every lubrication area
in
> the vehicle, including ball-joint grease. For example, most
differentials
> and transmissions fail because their fluid has failed, either because
the
> fluid hasn't been changed frequently enough, or because the fluid
overheated
> in towing. Synthetic transmission fluid helps hugely to prevent
problems,
> and naturally saves fuel at the same time. My '94 Taurus SHO got 10%
better
> car fuel economy with engine oil and transmission fluid change, my '02
> Sierra 2500HD Duramax got 8% better truck fuel economy with just
synthetic
> engine and differential fluids, and a friend's '99 Olds Silhouette van
> picked up 20% just by changing to synthetic engine oil - saving over
$600/yr
> in fuel
>
> 21. Improve airflow AROUND your vehicle:
> - Keep your windows rolled up at speeds over 40 mph: you'll feel a lot
of
> air turbulence around the window, and the air-conditioning is probably
> cheaper than the fuel-economy penalty in additional wind-drag.
> - Turn off the air and roll down the windows at speeds under 40 mph in
the
> summer heat: the additional wind-drag is cheaper than the
air-conditioning.
> - Consider adding a truck bed cover, either soft-type or hardshell: they
can
> give you a 1 to 2 mpg boost. What about dropping your tailgate to
travel,
> or buying an "air gate" net or louvered tailgate to replace the stock
part?
> Those are not as reliable - results depend on the vehicle aerodynamics,
bed
> length, and the size and shape of what you do (or don't) have in the
truck
> bed.
> - Reduce air turbulence under your vehicle: "Off-road" packages which
> include protective underbody "skid plate" features, or "ground effects"
> styling packages can help enough to add 1-5% in fuel economy. The
downside
> is that these can make the vehicle more difficult to work on.
> - Adding an air deflector to the roof of your vehicle when towing will
also
> add 1 to 3 mpg, but keep in mind that it will also reduce your
non-towing
> fuel economy by about the same amount if it's still on the vehicle when
> you're NOT towing. (These air deflectors improve fuel economy by
helping
to
> "kick" the air up over the trailer, reducing the trailer's wind-drag.)
> - Loaded roof racks or cargo pods can cut 5% or more off your fuel
economy.
> A cargo rack that slides into a trailer hitch allows you to carry extra
> stuff, still get into your trunk, and use less fuel.
> - Sunroof air-deflectors can be handy, but they do cost you a bit of
money.
> Removing the air deflector might save 1/4 to 3/4% in fuel economy.
>
> 22. Improve airflow into the engine. This can happen in several stages
of
> increasing complexity, but the first place is the air filter, where air
> enters your engine. If your filter is dirty, that reduces fuel economy
-
up
> to 10% in the worst cases. However, there's a conflicting problem.
> Conventional filters should NOT be replaced before the OEM's recommended
> interval or they will increase your engine wear rate: they rely on the
"dust
> cake" buildup to achieve effective filtration, which can reduce fuel
> economy.
>
> Easy: Here's an easy "no-brainer" improvement: Replace your air filter
with
> nanofiber filters born from military/aerospace technology. (Released in
> 2005 with worldwide patents, reasonably priced, with a huge percentage
of
> applications covered and still growing in 2007.) You get pressure drop
> nearly as low as an oiled gauze filter while filtering out 100% of wear
> particles down to 3 microns (for real). Clean with an annual
> tap/shake/vacuum. No warranty problems. .
>
> 23. Improve airflow out of the engine: Install an aftermarket exhaust
> system. These have larger diameter pipes and larger, less restrictive
> mufflers. My point isn't to get louder, but to reduce "backpressure"
losses
> which cut down on horsepower, torque and fuel-economy. Since increased
> noise is typical, and some systems are intentionally designed to be
loud,
> you may want to shop for the exhaust sounds you do or don't want.
Borla
> <http://www.borla.com>
is my personal high-quality favorite, because
they
> tastefully design for great improvement without being overly loud.
> Keep in mind that on turbo-charged engines, anything you do to improve
flow
> (reduce backpressure) through the exhaust system will pay rewards in
> increased turbo pressure, faster spool-up, and of course, better fuel
> economy. So if a larger down-pipe out of the turbo is an available
option,
> take it: that's a useful upgrade that is sometimes overlooked.
>
> Upgrade to a more fuel-efficient vehicle. But be cautious. Everyone
wants
> to make money from your vehicle change, so be sure to look out for your
best
> interests. There are several ways to do this. First, beware of
sticker
> price. Spending a lot more money to get more fuel economy may not begin
to
> pay you back before you sell the vehicle. Hint: hybrids are getting
"hot"
in
> the market, but they are often not worth the money. One reason is
initial
> cost penalty, another is unrealistic fuel-economy claims, and another is
> high replacement costs for the big battery packs that these vehicles use
to
> store and transfer energy. If that 56 mpg turns out to really be 41 mpg
as
> a recent long-term test did in the '05 Toyota Prius vehicle (Car and
Driver
> magazine), and you spent $6k more than an equivalent non-hybrid, and
you're
> faced with a $2,300 battery replacement bill after 3 years and you only
keep
> it for 4 or 5 years... well, the 36 mpg standard vehicle was a better
deal.
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