And not driving saves the world !!!!!!
RD
"Karl" <aufever@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> skrev i melding
news:ci3Yi.19007$lD6.7220@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> So far today it is $97......
>
> Yes, it is a SCAM. The only way to save money is to NOT drive your car.
>
>
> "Steve" <saveongasmormpg@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:Tw0Yi.3149$_S5.1299@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> With the cost of crude oil hitting a new record of $100 a barrel, this
is
>> something you can't pass up! This is not a SCAM and can save you real
>> money. A quick down and dirty of how this works:
>> 1st - By using this product, engine efficiency is gained. You will see
>> 7%
>> to 14% increases in your gas milage.
>>
>> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>>
>> 2nd - No longer use the high grade of Gasoline. This in itself saves
> quite
>> a bit of money since 87 octane is ALOT cheaper than 92. Once your
engine
> is
>> conditioned to the formula (Which only takes a little while) You can
>> start
>> using the cheap gas.
>>
>> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>>
>> 3rd - Even if you do not buy my product, I have prepared a special Tips
> and
>> Secrets to saving on MPG without my product! I believe in this product
>> so
>> much that if you use it, and follow the 23 tips I outline below, you
will
>> save a fortune over the coming year! Even if you do not use the
product,
>> remember that following these 23 simple tips makes for a huge money
saver
> as
>> well! I am looking out for the rest of us because, "I TOO AM TIRED OF
>> PAYING ALMOST 4 DOLLARS A GALLON!" It is ridiculous, and until we can
>> finally get off of gasoline, there looks to be no end in site to the
> rising
>> of oil prices!
>> 4th - Earn extra income by becoming a reseller of this fantastic
product!
>> Sign up on my webpage to become a reseller.
>>
>> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>>
>> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>>
>> As Promised, even if you don't buy my product at least follow these
> helpful
>> tips and secrets. IT WILL HELP US ALL SAVE IN THE LONG RUN!
>>
>> 1. Anticipate, use your brakes less, and don't accelerate quickly.
>> Look far down the road ahead, even if "far" means half a city block.
Get
>> into position for turn-lanes smoothly and early so that you don't have
to
>> accelerate to get in front of traffic. Remember that the guy who
leaves
> the
>> stoplight the quickest also pays more at the pump. Anticipate stops or
>> slow-downs ahead and take your foot off the gas: try to coast much more
> than
>> you brake.
>> See a long train at the RR crossing ahead? Get your foot off the gas
>> immediately. You can idle forward in Drive for a long way (without
>> braking), for ~30% less fuel than sitting in Drive, and nearly the same
> fuel
>> use as sitting in Park.
>> Remember: any additional distance you coast will save fuel and extend
>> your
>> brake-pad life.
>>
>> 2. Minimize idling, and idle smart: Engines only need 10 to 30
> seconds
>> for warm-up, and idling your engine for more than a minute typically
>> costs
>> more fuel than re-starting it. So avoid the drive-thru lines at the
bank
>> and the fast-food shop: instead of sitting in line, park and go inside.
>> BUT, when you must idle with an automatic transmission, put the
> transmission
>> in Neutral or Park while you're waiting: this will cut your fuel usage
at
>> idle by 15-35% depending on the vehicle. If you have a manual
> transmission,
>> don't use the clutch to keep from rolling back - use the brake. This
>> will
>> save fuel and extend your clutch life.
>>
>> 3. Use Cruise Control. It's proven to save fuel. But here's a
>> secret... it's not just for cruising. Using the "Resume" button on
your
>> cruise control can be a handy compromise to provide reasonable
> acceleration
>> times that don't irritate drivers behind you, without wasting excessive
>> fuel.
>>
>> 4. Overdrive and gear selection. If you have an automatic with
>> Overdrive, use the Overdrive. If you have a manual transmission, shift
>> early to keep engine rpm's lower and be sure to use the highest gear
for
>> highway cruising.
>>
>>
>>
>> 5. Slow down. As you increase speed above 60 mph, wind resistance
>> starts increasing dramatically as a percentage of total fuel
consumption.
>> Estimates are that every mile over 60 mph costs you 1% in fuel economy.
> In
>> other words, when you speed, you're paying more at the gas pump.
>>
>> 6. Watch your tire choice. Replacing your tires/wheels with wider
>> and/or taller ones may look awesome, but keep in mind that your choice
> could
>> have a 1 to 3% penalty in fuel economy... or even more in extreme cases
> like
>> "monster truck" tires/wheels.
>>
>>
>> 7. Carefully consider your route and the time of day: traffic flow
>> is
> a
>> huge factor.
>> For example, see the picture to the right. Those
>> vehicle-following-distances are typical of traffic in many large
cities.
> If
>> this highway traffic is stop-and-go, fuel economy will be bad. On the
> other
>> extreme, if the traffic is moving smoothly and fast (at 60 - 80 mph),
>> then
>> your fuel economy is going to be superb: those rushing vehicles create
a
>> jet-stream of air which dramatically reduces your wind-drag losses - 10
>> to
>> 30% improvements are possible. For maximum fuel economy, follow a
larger
>> vehicle and use your cruise control (just bump speed up/down 1 mph to
>> adjust). Also, keep in mind the wind direction: if there's a strong
wind
>> blowing in from the right, and you drive in the right lane, you get no
> break
>> in wind resistance.
>>
>> 8. Plan and Combine errands to make fewer trips. Think like your
>> great-grandparents did. Plan meals and grocery shop once a week or
twice
> a
>> month; just make a list of other errands during the week, plan your
>> route,
>> and do it all on the same day. Dropping off the kids at practice?
> Arrange
>> with other parents to carpool or to pick them up for you.
>> Such planning may seem like work at first, but it will give you more
free
>> time, help you relax, and can improve your average fuel economy by 5 to
> 15%.
>> It can also cut your average weekly mileage by 20% or more. Total
>> dollar
>> potential: save 10-35% of monthly fuel costs.
>> How does this help fuel economy? During the first several miles while
>> warming up, the engine and transmission are not operating at full
>> efficiency. This is why city fuel economy can drop dramatically in
cold
>> weather, when it can take 10 miles for the transmission to warm up.
>> Automatic transmissions in particular can be huge power hogs when fluid
>> is
>> cold (hot/cold temperatures are one of many reasons to use a
> full-synthetic
>> 100,000-mile transmission fluid - see more on this below), and manual
>> transmissions can feel like you're shifting in molasses. Combining two
>> or
>> three trips into one will not only reduce the miles you drive, but will
> get
>> you better fuel economy on the way.
>>
>> 9. Use air conditioning wisely. In city driving, it's cheaper to
>> use
>> the vents and/or roll the windows down. But at highway speeds, it's a
>> different story: rolling the windows down will cost you more fuel than
> using
>> the air conditioner. These factors can affect fuel economy by ~ 1-5%.
>>
>> 10. Buy fuel wisely. Ok, this isn't actually improving your fuel
> economy,
>> but there are several things to save money on: Filling up on Tuesday
>> afternoon or Wednesday morning will normally save you money: those are
>> typically the lowest prices of the week. Also, filling up in the
morning
>> when the fuel is cooler will get you a few extra cents of fuel. So
your
>> best time to fill up is - on average - Wednesday morning. Don't "top
>> off"
>> your tank: you risk losing fuel to the station's vapor-recovery system,
>> giving them back some of what you're paying for.
>>
>> 11. Use a good fuel additive. Injectors with excessive deposits have
> poor
>> spray patterns that can cost you 2 to 15% in fuel economy. Those
>> deposits
>> are caused by poor quality fuel. Since '95 the EPA has required all
>> gasoline to have deposit-control additives. But as fuel quality
control
>> capabilities have improved over the years, average fuel quality has
> dropped
>> steadily. Now about half of all fuel on the market is Lowest Additive
>> Concentration (LAC) gasoline, which barely meets the regulation and
>> contributes to excessive deposits. What can you do? First, if your
> vehicle
>> is designed for premium gas, and you use premium, your injectors may be
>> fine: many premium fuels include much higher additive levels that are
>> effective at keeping injectors clean. However, what if you don't use
>> premium? Use "Top Tier" detergent gas if you can find it, because this
> new
>> class of fuel meets the 2004 GM/Honda/Toyota/BMW deposit control
>> standard.
>> Shell states that all their gas grades meet the Top Tier standard.
>> If you don't need to pay for premium and Top Tier isn't available, you
>> probably need an additive. BEWARE: there are a lot of mousey fuel
> additive
>> products in ads and on store shelves that generate ridiculous sales
> profits
>> but don't do much for your vehicle. Find a good one that will clean
your
>> injectors, keep them clean, and (for diesels) lubricate your fuel pump.
>> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>>
>>
>> 12. Lose some weight! Reduce your vehicle's weight: clean out the
trunk
>> (and maybe the back seat). Summer snow-chains and tools from that
>> weekend
>> project two months ago is costing you fuel! For every 200 pounds in
your
>> trunk, it costs you roughly 1 mpg.
>>
>> 13. Don't drive! Carpool, occasionally ride a bicycle or walk,
> telecommute
>> for part of your work-week, or take public transportation.
>>
>> 14. Shift your work-hours to avoid gridlock. Stop-and-go traffic is
>> hard
>> on fuel economy. Try to arrange traveling to/from work when traffic
flow
> is
>> running smoothly at the speed limit.
>>
>> 15. Park in the Shade: The hotter the fuel tank gets, the more gas
you
>> lose to evaporation.
>>
>> 16. Smart vacation thinking: If your vehicle is a gas guzzler,
consider
>> renting an economical vehicle to drive on vacation. With a discounted
>> week-long rate at better fuel economy, the rental might pay for itself.
> If
>> you lease your vehicle, using a rental vehicle will also lower your
total
>> lease miles.
>>
>> 17. Keep a log of your mileage and fuel. I've done this for years,
>> first
>> in vehicle expense record books, and later with a program in my Palm
PDA.
>> One advantage is that you can monitor your fuel economy and driving
> habits.
>> Not only can you learn the cost benefits of changing your driving
style,
> but
>> you can spot the poor fuel economy that is often a first-alert to
>> maintenance issues. In addition, as you make changes to improve fuel
>> economy, you can measure the exact results (averaged over a few
fill-ups
> for
>> better accuracy).
>>
>>
>> Second: vehicle MAINTENANCE & UPGRADES.
>> These areas often get skipped in recommendations on getting better fuel
>> economy, and that's unfortunate because they can have huge impacts. In
>> fact, that's why I'm providing this list - so that you can learn about
> these
>> missing areas.
>> These all fall into two general ways to improve fuel economy:
>> - decrease friction in the vehicle's drivetrain (engine, transmission,
>> differential, wheel bearings);
>> - make it easier for air to flow through the engine, anywhere between
the
>> air intake and the exhaust tailpipe.
>>
>> These are the same areas that performance-enthusiasts improve to get
more
>> horsepower. I recently spoke with a Lexus mechanic who owns a Dodge
2500
>> pickup with the Cummins turbo-diesel engine. He was quite surprised
that
>> with his many thousands of dollars of horsepower upgrades, even running
>> large tires and higher ground-clearance, he was getting about 23 mpg.
>> "Every time I increased the power, the fuel economy improved." No
> surprise
>> to me: except for the tires, he was also increasing his engine's
> efficiency
>> with nearly every power upgrade.
>>
>> 18. Keep your engine tuned up. If you have a dashboard service-engine
>> light on, you're typically wasting fuel: for example, bad Oxygen
Sensors
> are
>> a classic problem that can cost you 5-15% in fuel economy. Overall,
poor
>> engine tuning and lack of maintenance will often decrease fuel economy
by
>> 10-20%, and it can be even worse in some cases.
>>
>> 19. Inflate your tires to their optimum: HIGHER pressures than
"normal".
>> Besides improving fuel economy, this will improve handling, increase
> safety,
>> and increase tire life. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by
>> 0.4
>> percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires.
>> Over 90% of car tires on the road are under-inflated, and this costs
>> money
>> in both fuel and in shortened tire life. "Experts" generally define
the
>> "proper" pressure as the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation, and
>> that's
>> what most service shops try to follow. Who can blame them when even
the
>> government says to follow inflation pressures on the vehicle's OEM
> (Original
>> Equipment Manufacturer) door sticker? Unfortunately, that's seldom
> correct.
>> OEM wheel/tire combinations for most passenger cars and light trucks
are
>> designed by the tire manufacturer for even tread pressure on the ground
> when
>> inflated to between 35 and 42 psi [pounds per square inch]: far more
than
>> the recommended 28 to 33 psi that you'll find in many owner's manuals
or
> on
>> door-jamb labels. If your tires normally wear the tread off the
shoulder
>> before the center of the tire, you can be certain that your tires are
>> under-inflated.
>>
>> Vehicle manufacturers like to get the cushy ride quality by using
>> under-inflated tires, rather than by using more expensive shocks,
springs
>> and suspension designs. What YOU need is even road-contact pressure
> across
>> the tread, because that gives you maximum tire life, better fuel
economy,
>> best performance in bad weather, and best overall handling and
cornering
>> characteristics. If you look closely on many tires, you'll see a
> reference
>> to 35 psi and a maximum pressure of 44 psi. So as long as you don't
put
>> more than 44 psi in your tires, you're fine.
>> So how much air pressure should you use? How do you figure it out?
>> First
>> of all, buy a digital pressure gauge - there are a lot of them for
$8-20,
>> typically accurate to a half psi or less. Or, you can use a
> mechanical-type
>> gauge if it has a LARGE round dial. These bourdon-tube gauges are
>> capable
>> of good accuracy, but check the packaging to see how accurately it's
>> calibrated. Whatever you do, DON'T use a straight "stick" air pressure
>> gauge. Inconsistent and inaccurate, stick gauges often read 2 to 10
psi
>> higher than actual pressure, meaning your tires will always be
>> under-inflated by at least that amount.
>> Next, inflate your front tires to about 40 psi and your rear tires to
> about
>> 38 psi. (Most vehicles are heavier in the front than in the rear. If
> yours
>> isn't, maybe from stuff you haul in the truck-bed or trunk, then use
the
>> same pressure in all four tires.) Then watch how your tires wear. The
>> ultimate is to buy a simple tire tread depth-gauge (max $6), and use it
>> to
>> check tread depth in the center, and near each "shoulder" of the tire
> (near
>> the inside and outside edges). If your tires wear more quickly on the
>> edges, increase your air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. If they wear more
> quickly
>> in the center, then decrease the air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. Most
tires
>> like to be in the 38-40 psi range, but if you put a wider tire on a
>> stock-width rim, you'll normally have to drop the air pressure to
> compensate
>> and get an even pressure "pad" across the tread.
>>
>> Results? By our conservative estimates, most passenger vehicles are
> riding
>> on tires that are 8 psi low. (That 20% difference can decrease tire
life
> by
>> an estimated 30% per the Technical Maintenance Council.) So overall,
>> bumping your tire pressure up to the optimum will likely give you a 3%
>> increase in fuel economy, depending on your vehicle, tires, and current
> air
>> pressure. You'll also get longer tire life. Be sure to check/adjust
>> your
>> tire pressure monthly, increase tire pressure temporarily when you're
>> carrying loads, and rotate your tires twice a year or every 10,000
miles.
>> For more complete details on proper tire care, visit this excellent
> article
>>
>
<http://www.rma.org/tire_safety/tire_maintenance_and_safety/tire_safety_broc
> hure/tire_care_and_safety.cfm>.
>> 20. Switch to best-quality synthetic oils and filters throughout your
>> drivetrain: engine oil, transmission fluid, differential gear oil and
> wheel
>> bearing grease. This advice - to use the best synthetic lubricants -
is
>> drastically neglected, yet it's an EASY area to save a lot of money.
>> However, it's not a simple area to understand, so here's a brief primer
>> on
>> synthetic lubricants.
>>
>> The number of vehicle owners turning to synthetic engine oil has
>> increased
>> dramatically, which is very good news for consumers because synthetics
>> are
>> better than petroleum products in every way, BY DESIGN.
>>
>> But consumers don't realize THREE KEY THINGS:
>>
>> First, that the benefits of synthetics extend to every lubrication area
>> in
>> the vehicle, including ball-joint grease. For example, most
>> differentials
>> and transmissions fail because their fluid has failed, either because
the
>> fluid hasn't been changed frequently enough, or because the fluid
> overheated
>> in towing. Synthetic transmission fluid helps hugely to prevent
problems,
>> and naturally saves fuel at the same time. My '94 Taurus SHO got 10%
> better
>> car fuel economy with engine oil and transmission fluid change, my '02
>> Sierra 2500HD Duramax got 8% better truck fuel economy with just
>> synthetic
>> engine and differential fluids, and a friend's '99 Olds Silhouette van
>> picked up 20% just by changing to synthetic engine oil - saving over
> $600/yr
>> in fuel
>>
>> 21. Improve airflow AROUND your vehicle:
>> - Keep your windows rolled up at speeds over 40 mph: you'll feel a lot
of
>> air turbulence around the window, and the air-conditioning is probably
>> cheaper than the fuel-economy penalty in additional wind-drag.
>> - Turn off the air and roll down the windows at speeds under 40 mph in
>> the
>> summer heat: the additional wind-drag is cheaper than the
> air-conditioning.
>> - Consider adding a truck bed cover, either soft-type or hardshell:
they
> can
>> give you a 1 to 2 mpg boost. What about dropping your tailgate to
>> travel,
>> or buying an "air gate" net or louvered tailgate to replace the stock
> part?
>> Those are not as reliable - results depend on the vehicle aerodynamics,
> bed
>> length, and the size and shape of what you do (or don't) have in the
>> truck
>> bed.
>> - Reduce air turbulence under your vehicle: "Off-road" packages which
>> include protective underbody "skid plate" features, or "ground effects"
>> styling packages can help enough to add 1-5% in fuel economy. The
> downside
>> is that these can make the vehicle more difficult to work on.
>> - Adding an air deflector to the roof of your vehicle when towing will
> also
>> add 1 to 3 mpg, but keep in mind that it will also reduce your
non-towing
>> fuel economy by about the same amount if it's still on the vehicle when
>> you're NOT towing. (These air deflectors improve fuel economy by
helping
> to
>> "kick" the air up over the trailer, reducing the trailer's wind-drag.)
>> - Loaded roof racks or cargo pods can cut 5% or more off your fuel
> economy.
>> A cargo rack that slides into a trailer hitch allows you to carry extra
>> stuff, still get into your trunk, and use less fuel.
>> - Sunroof air-deflectors can be handy, but they do cost you a bit of
> money.
>> Removing the air deflector might save 1/4 to 3/4% in fuel economy.
>>
>> 22. Improve airflow into the engine. This can happen in several
stages
> of
>> increasing complexity, but the first place is the air filter, where air
>> enters your engine. If your filter is dirty, that reduces fuel economy
-
> up
>> to 10% in the worst cases. However, there's a conflicting problem.
>> Conventional filters should NOT be replaced before the OEM's
recommended
>> interval or they will increase your engine wear rate: they rely on the
> "dust
>> cake" buildup to achieve effective filtration, which can reduce fuel
>> economy.
>>
>> Easy: Here's an easy "no-brainer" improvement: Replace your air filter
> with
>> nanofiber filters born from military/aerospace technology. (Released
in
>> 2005 with worldwide patents, reasonably priced, with a huge percentage
of
>> applications covered and still growing in 2007.) You get pressure drop
>> nearly as low as an oiled gauze filter while filtering out 100% of wear
>> particles down to 3 microns (for real). Clean with an annual
>> tap/shake/vacuum. No warranty problems. .
>>
>> 23. Improve airflow out of the engine: Install an aftermarket exhaust
>> system. These have larger diameter pipes and larger, less restrictive
>> mufflers. My point isn't to get louder, but to reduce "backpressure"
> losses
>> which cut down on horsepower, torque and fuel-economy. Since increased
>> noise is typical, and some systems are intentionally designed to be
loud,
>> you may want to shop for the exhaust sounds you do or don't want.
>> Borla
>> <http://www.borla.com>
is my personal high-quality favorite, because
they
>> tastefully design for great improvement without being overly loud.
>> Keep in mind that on turbo-charged engines, anything you do to improve
> flow
>> (reduce backpressure) through the exhaust system will pay rewards in
>> increased turbo pressure, faster spool-up, and of course, better fuel
>> economy. So if a larger down-pipe out of the turbo is an available
> option,
>> take it: that's a useful upgrade that is sometimes overlooked.
>>
>> Upgrade to a more fuel-efficient vehicle. But be cautious. Everyone
> wants
>> to make money from your vehicle change, so be sure to look out for your
> best
>> interests. There are several ways to do this. First, beware of
>> sticker
>> price. Spending a lot more money to get more fuel economy may not
begin
> to
>> pay you back before you sell the vehicle. Hint: hybrids are getting
"hot"
> in
>> the market, but they are often not worth the money. One reason is
>> initial
>> cost penalty, another is unrealistic fuel-economy claims, and another
is
>> high replacement costs for the big battery packs that these vehicles
use
> to
>> store and transfer energy. If that 56 mpg turns out to really be 41
mpg
> as
>> a recent long-term test did in the '05 Toyota Prius vehicle (Car and
> Driver
>> magazine), and you spent $6k more than an equivalent non-hybrid, and
> you're
>> faced with a $2,300 battery replacement bill after 3 years and you only
> keep
>> it for 4 or 5 years... well, the 36 mpg standard vehicle was a better
> deal.
>
>
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