hsg@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
> On Sat, 26 Apr 2008 10:39:55 -0400, mark barron <mbarron@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
wrote:
>
>> I want to remove the voltage regulator to check the brushes.
>> I hope someone can help me with the removal of the cover on
>> the back cover of the alternator on my 2001 e39 530i. The connector
>> to the back of the alternator is retangular with two to three
>> locations wired. Based on shape of the connector I have been told
>> that the alternator is Bosch. Based on this retangular shape and
>> "experience" the BMW parts guy told me it is a 120 amp Bosch.
>> The car is a few miles away and I lack reading glasses to
>> read writing at back of alternator.
>> I removed the nuts at the red positive battery cable and the nut
>> under the rubber cover(with fins or ridges) . This allows me
>> to swing the top portion or the alternator back cover away from
>> the body say 1/2". There appears to be a third fastener near the
>> bottom of the back cover. There is a tapering concavity at this
>> position. Can anyone tell me how to remove this fastener. The
>> concavity is - based on finger feel, perhaps large enough to allow
>> entrance of say an 8mm socket. I don't need to know the size of
>> the bit, but it would help me a lot it you could tell me the
>> type of head I am dealing with, torx, hex, slot etc.
>> Many thanks. I can't see a thing. even with an angled mirror.
>> Mark
>
> Looking at the exploded views on the parts list it appears that the case
is
> bolted together with through bolts. These hold the front and rear casing
> together as do all other makes. The regulator is held by (apparently) 2
bolts or
> nuts and it appears that it could also carry the brushes but I don't
think so.
>
> I would suggest that if you have already removed the cooling ducting and
the
> alternator from the vehicle you clamp it in a vice and undo the 3
through bolts
> and gently tap the end cover off the rotor bearing spigot.
>
> It will become clearer then how the brushes are fitted - usually by long
springs
> or small coiled levers on the top of the carrier.
>
> The trick in keeping them inside the slide prior to refitting the rear
case can
> be difficult.
>
> In the past we used to twist the coiled lever springs to sit on the edge
of the
> brush carrier and when in place poke them into place with a bit of rod
or long
> thin screwdriver.
>
> When you have the cover off get a fine hacksaw blade and clean out the
> commutator segment spacers - these get filled by carbon dust from the
brushes
> and eventually will conduct between the segments and cause an internal
short
> circuit. Make sure the commutator surfaces are flat and clean - a piece
of emery
> paper is Ok for this unless you can remove the pulley and take out the
rotor and
> machine the thing in a lathe.
>
> If going to this trouble it might be better to get a re-built unit from
an auto
> electrician - that is if you are sure the alternator is faulty - he can
check
> this for you while you wait and watch.
>
> Hugh
Dear Hugh,
Thank you for your kind reply. I appreciate you taking the time to
share your thoughts and experience. I did a poor job of explaining
my problem. Please view the exploded view of alternator from realoem.com
below:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DT53&mospid=47587&btnr=12_1084&hg=12&fg=22
If you enter the final 7 digits of your VIN number upon entry to the
website, you are directed to parts of your car!
I can not remove part #3 to access part #2. BMW , at least in the 5
series, has opted for puting the alternator brushes in the voltage
regulator. I think this is clever.
The view above shows one single fastener to hold the cover on. I have
removed two and am convinced there is a third fastener, low and a bit
to the outboard side.
I have decided to get physical with the plastic cover and to break it if
necessary. I feel I can then repair it with epoxy.
Best Wishes, Mark
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