On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 07:56:50 -0400, mark barron <mbarron@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
wrote:
>hsg@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
>> On Sat, 26 Apr 2008 10:39:55 -0400, mark barron <mbarron@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
wrote:
>>
>>> I want to remove the voltage regulator to check the brushes.
>>> I hope someone can help me with the removal of the cover on
>>> the back cover of the alternator on my 2001 e39 530i. The connector
>>> to the back of the alternator is retangular with two to three
>>> locations wired. Based on shape of the connector I have been told
>>> that the alternator is Bosch. Based on this retangular shape and
>>> "experience" the BMW parts guy told me it is a 120 amp Bosch.
>>> The car is a few miles away and I lack reading glasses to
>>> read writing at back of alternator.
>>> I removed the nuts at the red positive battery cable and the nut
>>> under the rubber cover(with fins or ridges) . This allows me
>>> to swing the top portion or the alternator back cover away from
>>> the body say 1/2". There appears to be a third fastener near the
>>> bottom of the back cover. There is a tapering concavity at this
>>> position. Can anyone tell me how to remove this fastener. The
>>> concavity is - based on finger feel, perhaps large enough to allow
>>> entrance of say an 8mm socket. I don't need to know the size of
>>> the bit, but it would help me a lot it you could tell me the
>>> type of head I am dealing with, torx, hex, slot etc.
>>> Many thanks. I can't see a thing. even with an angled mirror.
>>> Mark
>>
>> Looking at the exploded views on the parts list it appears that the
case is
>> bolted together with through bolts. These hold the front and rear
casing
>> together as do all other makes. The regulator is held by (apparently) 2
bolts or
>> nuts and it appears that it could also carry the brushes but I don't
think so.
>>
>> I would suggest that if you have already removed the cooling ducting
and the
>> alternator from the vehicle you clamp it in a vice and undo the 3
through bolts
>> and gently tap the end cover off the rotor bearing spigot.
>>
>> It will become clearer then how the brushes are fitted - usually by
long springs
>> or small coiled levers on the top of the carrier.
>>
>> The trick in keeping them inside the slide prior to refitting the rear
case can
>> be difficult.
>>
>> In the past we used to twist the coiled lever springs to sit on the
edge of the
>> brush carrier and when in place poke them into place with a bit of rod
or long
>> thin screwdriver.
>>
>> When you have the cover off get a fine hacksaw blade and clean out the
>> commutator segment spacers - these get filled by carbon dust from the
brushes
>> and eventually will conduct between the segments and cause an internal
short
>> circuit. Make sure the commutator surfaces are flat and clean - a piece
of emery
>> paper is Ok for this unless you can remove the pulley and take out the
rotor and
>> machine the thing in a lathe.
>>
>> If going to this trouble it might be better to get a re-built unit from
an auto
>> electrician - that is if you are sure the alternator is faulty - he can
check
>> this for you while you wait and watch.
>>
>> Hugh
>Dear Hugh,
>
> Thank you for your kind reply. I appreciate you taking the time to
>share your thoughts and experience. I did a poor job of explaining
>my problem. Please view the exploded view of alternator from realoem.com
>below:
>
>http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DT53&mospid=47587&btnr=12_1084&hg=12&fg=22
>
>If you enter the final 7 digits of your VIN number upon entry to the
>website, you are directed to parts of your car!
>
>I can not remove part #3 to access part #2. BMW , at least in the 5
>series, has opted for puting the alternator brushes in the voltage
>regulator. I think this is clever.
>
>The view above shows one single fastener to hold the cover on. I have
>removed two and am convinced there is a third fastener, low and a bit
>to the outboard side.
>I have decided to get physical with the plastic cover and to break it if
>necessary. I feel I can then repair it with epoxy.
>
> Best Wishes, Mark
Repairing plastic, if it is based on Acrylic (Perspex or Plexiglas or
polystyrene (usually polystyrene) is best done with the cement used in
plastic
model car/airplane type kits.
If you go to a model shop or a good hobby shop and get some
"dichloramethane".
This comes as a water thin liquid for use on polystyrene based plastics
such as
those found in cars and window frames etc. and as a gel used with plastic
models
and other hard plastics such as Acrylic or Perspex/Plexiglas. The gel
formula
is to make sure the dichloramethane stays in place long enough to melt
into the
plastic and form a WELD.
Some plastics react quicker than others but both need about 24 hours or
more to
gain full strength.
I know as my wife is forever breaking those little white plastic hinge
pivots
off our freezer and also the thin plastic sill in out porch - soon I'll
have the
whole freezer and porch held together with dichloramethane.
--
Sir Hugh of Bognor
The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.
Intelligence is not knowing the answer but knowing where and how to find
it!
Hugh Gundersen
hsg@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Regis, W.Sussex, England, UK
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