Using this information, today I pulled the doorpanel and checked wires,
switches and the motor.
There was no "hot wire" checking with a tester at either any of the window
switches or at the motor on the front driver's door. This is the "AUTO"
down
window.
I am pretty sure it is the solid brown wire on the switches and the motor
that is the "hot" wire.
I ran a jumper wire from the battery posts under the hood to the two pins
on
the motor itself and when touched, the motor would "clunk" but the window
didn't move.
The rebuilt replacement motor is $45.00 and the switch assembly from
Cadillac is $210.00 and has to be ordered. Flat Rate Labor at Cadillac
Dealer is $95.00 an hour.
Can any of you sharp Techs out there give me some hints on what and how to
test to find out which of these is defective.
Is it possible that when I pulled the window up about 1/4 to 3/8 of an
inch
I could have thrown something out of phase since this is the "Auto"
window?
Is there something between the switch and the motor to make it auto down?
Thanks for any help or suggestions. If you don't wish to reply here, send
me
an email.
Bob...
<putt@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:16134-46503B99-542@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Is there such a thing as a limit
>> microswitch or something on these
>> windows that I could have thrown out of
>> sync by pulling up on that window? Is it
>> more likely a defective motor that is
>> causing the problem?
>
> Each window motor is protected by a built-in circuit breaker. When the
> switch is held on too long with a window obstructed, the CB will Open
> the circuit and will reset automatically as it cools.
>
> The reversible motors are controlled by two normally-closed and grounded
> switches. SO.... there is a Hot circuit at each motor when the key is
> On or Acc position. The Up/Down sw is controlling the reversible
> grounds in the motor. Usually what goes wrong is a faulty switch.
> Corrosion/dirt causes a failure at the little brass contacts to make
> good contact. Cleaning the contacts is not an option, although I
> tried....to no avail. Replacement of the MSA(master sw assembly) or the
> individual sw is needed.
>
> If you are 'electrically inclined' I can email the diagnostic tree.
>
> Dave S(Texas)
>
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