Here is how I solve said problems:
1. Completely disconnect the negative battery cable from
the battery. That is, the negative battery cable MUST be
completely disconnected from any contact with the frame.
2. Place a tiny 12VDC light bulb (any will do) in line with the
negative battery terminal and the frame of the car. That is, connect
one wire from the bulb to the ground of the bulb to the ground
of the negative battery post. Connect the other wire to the tip of the
tiny bulb and the other end of that wire is grounded to the frame of
the car. That is, place a tiny 12VDC bulb in-line from the negative
post to the frame.
3. With the car key completely removed from the ignition, you may, or may
not see a TINY glow in the bulb, even when there is no problem. That is,
the
car clocks, etc. will normally use a tiny bit of juice. IF you have a
problem,
the bulb will glow brightly. This means that you have juice going
somewhere
when the key is removed - and you have a problem. You do not have
a solution until the light dims.
4. Assuming you have a problem, and the light glows brightly - then you
need
to pull , then replace, "ONE" fuse at a time until the tiny 12VDC light
bulb either
goes out, or glows dimly. Most of the time, one of the fuses will tell you
the
specific circuit that is causing the problem. You can even try pulling the
relays,
but that may, or may not, work - but worth a shot. Remember, there may be
TWO
or more fuse boxes - one inside the car, the other(s) under the hood.
Just take your time and think it out - it's a lot easier than it first
appears:-)
Gene
"Keith Stelter" <keith@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:npOdnTd4brnK-CbbnZ2dnUVZ_oOnnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>I posted a week or so ago about the battery on my 1997 Sebring ragtop
>draining randomly.
> I replaced the battery, based on the recommendation of several people,
and
> when I changed it there was a pretty healthy spark when I disconnected
the
> battery terminals. Not like hooking up jumper cables, but a little more
> than I would have expected.
> Does anyone know what the load draw should be on the battery when the
car
> is just sitting (shut off with the doors closed) from the clock,
> electronic sensors, etc?
> I can use my digital multimeter to take a reading and see how much draw
> there is, but unless I know what it's supposed to be it won't really do
> any good to do the test.
> Thanks in advance for any help!
>
>
>
|
