Steve wrote:
>With the cost of crude oil hitting $90 a barrel, this is something you
can't
>pass up! This is not a SCAM and can save you real money. A quick down
and
>dirty of how this works:
>
>
Magnets on the fuel line or the "Turbonator" behind the air cleaner?
LOLOLOLOLOL
>1st - By using this product, engine efficiency is gained. You will see
7%
>to 14% increases in your gas milage.
<http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>2nd - No longer use the high grade of Gasoline. This in itself saves
quite
>a bit of money since 87 octane is ALOT cheaper than 92. Once your engine
is
>conditioned to the formula (Which only takes a little while) You can
start
>using the cheap gas. <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>3rd - Even if you do not buy my product, I have prepared a special Tips
and
>Secrets to saving on MPG without my product! I believe in this product
so
>much that if you use it, and follow the 23 tips I outline below, you will
>save a fortune over the coming year! Even if you do not use the product,
>remember that following these 23 simple tips makes for a huge money saver
as
>well! I am looking out for the rest of us because, "I TOO AM TIRED OF
>PAYING ALMOST 4 DOLLARS A GALLON!" It is ridiculous, and until we can
>finally get off of gasoline, there looks to be no end in site to the
rising
>of oil prices!
>4th - Earn extra income by becoming a reseller of this fantastic product!
>Sign up on my webpage to become a reseller.
>
><http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
><http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>As Promised, even if you don't buy my product at least follow these
helpful
>tips and secrets. IT WILL HELP US ALL SAVE IN THE LONG RUN!
>1. Anticipate, use your brakes less, and don't accelerate quickly.
>Look far down the road ahead, even if "far" means half a city block. Get
>into position for turn-lanes smoothly and early so that you don't have to
>accelerate to get in front of traffic. Remember that the guy who leaves
the
>stoplight the quickest also pays more at the pump. Anticipate stops or
>slow-downs ahead and take your foot off the gas: try to coast much more
than
>you brake.
>See a long train at the RR crossing ahead? Get your foot off the gas
>immediately. You can idle forward in Drive for a long way (without
>braking), for ~30% less fuel than sitting in Drive, and nearly the same
fuel
>use as sitting in Park.
>Remember: any additional distance you coast will save fuel and extend
your
>brake-pad life.
>
>2. Minimize idling, and idle smart: Engines only need 10 to 30
seconds
>for warm-up, and idling your engine for more than a minute typically
costs
>more fuel than re-starting it. So avoid the drive-thru lines at the bank
>and the fast-food shop: instead of sitting in line, park and go inside.
>BUT, when you must idle with an automatic transmission, put the
transmission
>in Neutral or Park while you're waiting: this will cut your fuel usage at
>idle by 15-35% depending on the vehicle. If you have a manual
transmission,
>don't use the clutch to keep from rolling back - use the brake. This
will
>save fuel and extend your clutch life.
>
>3. Use Cruise Control. It's proven to save fuel. But here's a
>secret... it's not just for cruising. Using the "Resume" button on your
>cruise control can be a handy compromise to provide reasonable
acceleration
>times that don't irritate drivers behind you, without wasting excessive
>fuel.
>
>4. Overdrive and gear selection. If you have an automatic with
>Overdrive, use the Overdrive. If you have a manual transmission, ****ft
>early to keep engine rpm's lower and be sure to use the highest gear for
>highway cruising.
>
>
>
>5. Slow down. As you increase speed above 60 mph, wind resistance
>starts increasing dramatically as a percentage of total fuel consumption.
>Estimates are that every mile over 60 mph costs you 1% in fuel economy.
In
>other words, when you speed, you're paying more at the gas pump.
>
>6. Watch your tire choice. Replacing your tires/wheels with wider
>and/or taller ones may look awesome, but keep in mind that your choice
could
>have a 1 to 3% penalty in fuel economy... or even more in extreme cases
like
>"monster truck" tires/wheels.
>
>
>7. Carefully consider your route and the time of day: traffic flow
is a
>huge factor.
>For example, see the picture to the right. Those
>vehicle-following-distances are typical of traffic in many large cities.
If
>this highway traffic is stop-and-go, fuel economy will be bad. On the
other
>extreme, if the traffic is moving smoothly and fast (at 60 - 80 mph),
then
>your fuel economy is going to be superb: those ru****ng vehicles create a
>jet-stream of air which dramatically reduces your wind-drag losses - 10
to
>30% improvements are possible. For maximum fuel economy, follow a larger
>vehicle and use your cruise control (just bump speed up/down 1 mph to
>adjust). Also, keep in mind the wind direction: if there's a strong wind
>blowing in from the right, and you drive in the right lane, you get no
break
>in wind resistance.
>
>8. Plan and Combine errands to make fewer trips. Think like your
>great-grandparents did. Plan meals and grocery shop once a week or twice
a
>month; just make a list of other errands during the week, plan your
route,
>and do it all on the same day. Dropping off the kids at practice?
Arrange
>with other parents to carpool or to pick them up for you.
>Such planning may seem like work at first, but it will give you more free
>time, help you relax, and can improve your average fuel economy by 5 to
15%.
> It can also cut your average weekly mileage by 20% or more. Total
dollar
>potential: save 10-35% of monthly fuel costs.
>How does this help fuel economy? During the first several miles while
>warming up, the engine and transmission are not operating at full
>efficiency. This is why city fuel economy can drop dramatically in cold
>weather, when it can take 10 miles for the transmission to warm up.
>Automatic transmissions in particular can be huge power hogs when fluid
is
>cold (hot/cold temperatures are one of many reasons to use a
full-synthetic
>100,000-mile transmission fluid - see more on this below), and manual
>transmissions can feel like you're ****fting in mol*****. Combining two
or
>three trips into one will not only reduce the miles you drive, but will
get
>you better fuel economy on the way.
>
>9. Use air conditioning wisely. In city driving, it's cheaper to
use
>the vents and/or roll the windows down. But at highway speeds, it's a
>different story: rolling the windows down will cost you more fuel than
using
>the air conditioner. These factors can affect fuel economy by ~ 1-5%.
>
>10. Buy fuel wisely. Ok, this isn't actually improving your fuel
economy,
>but there are several things to save money on: Filling up on Tuesday
>afternoon or Wednesday morning will normally save you money: those are
>typically the lowest prices of the week. Also, filling up in the morning
>when the fuel is cooler will get you a few extra cents of fuel. So your
>best time to fill up is - on average - Wednesday morning. Don't "top
off"
>your tank: you risk losing fuel to the station's va****-recovery system,
>giving them back some of what you're paying for.
>
>11. Use a good fuel additive. Injectors with excessive deposits have
poor
>spray patterns that can cost you 2 to 15% in fuel economy. Those
deposits
>are caused by poor quality fuel. Since '95 the EPA has required all
>gasoline to have deposit-control additives. But as fuel quality control
>capabilities have improved over the years, average fuel quality has
dropped
>steadily. Now about half of all fuel on the market is Lowest Additive
>Concentration (LAC) gasoline, which barely meets the regulation and
>contributes to excessive deposits. What can you do? First, if your
vehicle
>is designed for premium gas, and you use premium, your injectors may be
>fine: many premium fuels include much higher additive levels that are
>effective at keeping injectors clean. However, what if you don't use
>premium? Use "Top Tier" detergent gas if you can find it, because this
new
>class of fuel meets the 2004 GM/Honda/Toyota/BMW deposit control
standard.
>Shell states that all their gas grades meet the Top Tier standard.
>If you don't need to pay for premium and Top Tier isn't available, you
>probably need an additive. BEWARE: there are a lot of mousey fuel
additive
>products in ads and on store shelves that generate ridiculous sales
profits
>but don't do much for your vehicle. Find a good one that will clean your
>injectors, keep them clean, and (for diesels) lubricate your fuel pump.
><http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>
>
>12. Lose some weight! Reduce your vehicle's weight: clean out the trunk
>(and maybe the back seat). Summer snow-chains and tools from that
weekend
>project two months ago is costing you fuel! For every 200 pounds in your
>trunk, it costs you roughly 1 mpg.
>
>13. Don't drive! Carpool, occasionally ride a bicycle or walk,
telecommute
>for part of your work-week, or take public trans****tation.
>
>14. ****ft your work-hours to avoid gridlock. Stop-and-go traffic is
hard
>on fuel economy. Try to arrange traveling to/from work when traffic flow
is
>running smoothly at the speed limit.
>
>15. Park in the Shade: The hotter the fuel tank gets, the more gas you
>lose to eva****ation.
>
>16. Smart vacation thinking: If your vehicle is a gas guzzler, consider
>renting an economical vehicle to drive on vacation. With a discounted
>week-long rate at better fuel economy, the rental might pay for itself.
If
>you lease your vehicle, using a rental vehicle will also lower your total
>lease miles.
>
>17. Keep a log of your mileage and fuel. I've done this for years,
first
>in vehicle expense record books, and later with a program in my Palm PDA.
>One advantage is that you can monitor your fuel economy and driving
habits.
>Not only can you learn the cost benefits of changing your driving style,
but
>you can spot the poor fuel economy that is often a first-alert to
>maintenance issues. In addition, as you make changes to improve fuel
>economy, you can measure the exact results (averaged over a few fill-ups
for
>better accuracy).
>
>
>Second: vehicle MAINTENANCE & UPGRADES.
>These areas often get skipped in recommendations on getting better fuel
>economy, and that's unfortunate because they can have huge impacts. In
>fact, that's why I'm providing this list - so that you can learn about
these
>missing areas.
>These all fall into two general ways to improve fuel economy:
>- decrease friction in the vehicle's drivetrain (engine, transmission,
>differential, wheel bearings);
>- make it easier for air to flow through the engine, anywhere between the
>air intake and the exhaust tailpipe.
>
>These are the same areas that performance-enthusiasts improve to get more
>horsepower. I recently spoke with a Lexus mechanic who owns a Dodge 2500
>pickup with the ***mins turbo-diesel engine. He was quite surprised that
>with his many thousands of dollars of horsepower upgrades, even running
>large tires and higher ground-clearance, he was getting about 23 mpg.
>"Every time I increased the power, the fuel economy improved." No
surprise
>to me: except for the tires, he was also increasing his engine's
efficiency
>with nearly every power upgrade.
>
>18. Keep your engine tuned up. If you have a dashboard service-engine
>light on, you're typically wasting fuel: for example, bad Oxygen Sensors
are
>a classic problem that can cost you 5-15% in fuel economy. Overall, poor
>engine tuning and lack of maintenance will often decrease fuel economy by
>10-20%, and it can be even worse in some cases.
>
>19. Inflate your tires to their optimum: HIGHER pressures than "normal".
>Besides improving fuel economy, this will improve handling, increase
safety,
>and increase tire life. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by
0.4
>percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires.
>Over 90% of car tires on the road are under-inflated, and this costs
money
>in both fuel and in shortened tire life. "Experts" generally define the
>"proper" pressure as the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation, and
that's
>what most service shops try to follow. Who can blame them when even the
>government says to follow inflation pressures on the vehicle's OEM
(Original
>Equipment Manufacturer) door sticker? Unfortunately, that's seldom
correct.
> OEM wheel/tire combinations for most passenger cars and light trucks are
>designed by the tire manufacturer for even tread pressure on the ground
when
>inflated to between 35 and 42 psi [pounds per square inch]: far more than
>the recommended 28 to 33 psi that you'll find in many owner's manuals or
on
>door-jamb labels. If your tires normally wear the tread off the shoulder
>before the center of the tire, you can be certain that your tires are
>under-inflated.
>
>Vehicle manufacturers like to get the cushy ride quality by using
>under-inflated tires, rather than by using more expensive shocks, springs
>and suspension designs. What YOU need is even road-contact pressure
across
>the tread, because that gives you maximum tire life, better fuel economy,
>best performance in bad weather, and best overall handling and cornering
>characteristics. If you look closely on many tires, you'll see a
reference
>to 35 psi and a maximum pressure of 44 psi. So as long as you don't put
>more than 44 psi in your tires, you're fine.
>So how much air pressure should you use? How do you figure it out?
First
>of all, buy a digital pressure gauge - there are a lot of them for $8-20,
>typically accurate to a half psi or less. Or, you can use a
mechanical-type
>gauge if it has a LARGE round dial. These bourdon-tube gauges are
capable
>of good accuracy, but check the packaging to see how accurately it's
>calibrated. Whatever you do, DON'T use a straight "stick" air pressure
>gauge. Inconsistent and inaccurate, stick gauges often read 2 to 10 psi
>higher than actual pressure, meaning your tires will always be
>under-inflated by at least that amount.
>Next, inflate your front tires to about 40 psi and your rear tires to
about
>38 psi. (Most vehicles are heavier in the front than in the rear. If
yours
>isn't, maybe from stuff you haul in the truck-bed or trunk, then use the
>same pressure in all four tires.) Then watch how your tires wear. The
>ultimate is to buy a simple tire tread depth-gauge (max $6), and use it
to
>check tread depth in the center, and near each "shoulder" of the tire
(near
>the inside and outside edges). If your tires wear more quickly on the
>edges, increase your air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. If they wear more
quickly
>in the center, then decrease the air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. Most tires
>like to be in the 38-40 psi range, but if you put a wider tire on a
>stock-width rim, you'll normally have to drop the air pressure to
compensate
>and get an even pressure "pad" across the tread.
>
>Results? By our conservative estimates, most passenger vehicles are
riding
>on tires that are 8 psi low. (That 20% difference can decrease tire life
by
>an estimated 30% per the Technical Maintenance Council.) So overall,
>bumping your tire pressure up to the optimum will likely give you a 3%
>increase in fuel economy, depending on your vehicle, tires, and current
air
>pressure. You'll also get longer tire life. Be sure to check/adjust
your
>tire pressure monthly, increase tire pressure tem****arily when you're
>carrying loads, and rotate your tires twice a year or every 10,000 miles.
>For more complete details on proper tire care, visit this excellent
article
><http://www.rma.org/tire_safety/tire_maintenance_and_safety/tire_safety_brochure/tire_care_and_safety.cfm>.
>20. Switch to best-quality synthetic oils and filters throughout your
>drivetrain: engine oil, transmission fluid, differential gear oil and
wheel
>bearing grease. This advice - to use the best synthetic lubricants - is
>drastically neglected, yet it's an EASY area to save a lot of money.
>However, it's not a simple area to understand, so here's a brief primer
on
>synthetic lubricants.
>
>The number of vehicle owners turning to synthetic engine oil has
increased
>dramatically, which is very good news for consumers because synthetics
are
>better than petroleum products in every way, BY DESIGN.
>
>But consumers don't realize THREE KEY THINGS:
>
>First, that the benefits of synthetics extend to every lubrication area
in
>the vehicle, including ball-joint grease. For example, most
differentials
>and transmissions fail because their fluid has failed, either because the
>fluid hasn't been changed frequently enough, or because the fluid
overheated
>in towing. Synthetic transmission fluid helps hugely to prevent problems,
>and naturally saves fuel at the same time. My '94 Taurus SHO got 10%
better
>car fuel economy with engine oil and transmission fluid change, my '02
>Sierra 2500HD Duramax got 8% better truck fuel economy with just
synthetic
>engine and differential fluids, and a friend's '99 Olds Silhouette van
>picked up 20% just by changing to synthetic engine oil - saving over
$600/yr
>in fuel
>
>21. Improve airflow AROUND your vehicle:
>- Keep your windows rolled up at speeds over 40 mph: you'll feel a lot of
>air turbulence around the window, and the air-conditioning is probably
>cheaper than the fuel-economy penalty in additional wind-drag.
>- Turn off the air and roll down the windows at speeds under 40 mph in
the
>summer heat: the additional wind-drag is cheaper than the
air-conditioning.
>- Consider adding a truck bed cover, either soft-type or hardshell: they
can
>give you a 1 to 2 mpg boost. What about dropping your tailgate to
travel,
>or buying an "air gate" net or louvered tailgate to replace the stock
part?
>Those are not as reliable - results depend on the vehicle aerodynamics,
bed
>length, and the size and shape of what you do (or don't) have in the
truck
>bed.
>- Reduce air turbulence under your vehicle: "Off-road" packages which
>include protective underbody "skid plate" features, or "ground effects"
>styling packages can help enough to add 1-5% in fuel economy. The
downside
>is that these can make the vehicle more difficult to work on.
>- Adding an air deflector to the roof of your vehicle when towing will
also
>add 1 to 3 mpg, but keep in mind that it will also reduce your non-towing
>fuel economy by about the same amount if it's still on the vehicle when
>you're NOT towing. (These air deflectors improve fuel economy by helping
to
>"kick" the air up over the trailer, reducing the trailer's wind-drag.)
>- Loaded roof racks or cargo pods can cut 5% or more off your fuel
economy.
>A cargo rack that slides into a trailer hitch allows you to carry extra
>stuff, still get into your trunk, and use less fuel.
>- Sunroof air-deflectors can be handy, but they do cost you a bit of
money.
>Removing the air deflector might save 1/4 to 3/4% in fuel economy.
>
>22. Improve airflow into the engine. This can happen in several stages
of
>increasing complexity, but the first place is the air filter, where air
>enters your engine. If your filter is dirty, that reduces fuel economy -
up
>to 10% in the worst cases. However, there's a conflicting problem.
>Conventional filters should NOT be replaced before the OEM's recommended
>interval or they will increase your engine wear rate: they rely on the
"dust
>cake" buildup to achieve effective filtration, which can reduce fuel
>economy.
>
>Easy: Here's an easy "no-brainer" improvement: Replace your air filter
with
>nanofiber filters born from military/aerospace technology. (Released in
>2005 with worldwide patents, reasonably priced, with a huge percentage of
>applications covered and still growing in 2007.) You get pressure drop
>nearly as low as an oiled gauze filter while filtering out 100% of wear
>particles down to 3 microns (for real). Clean with an annual
>tap/shake/vacuum. No warranty problems. .
>
>23. Improve airflow out of the engine: Install an aftermarket exhaust
>system. These have larger diameter pipes and larger, less restrictive
>mufflers. My point isn't to get louder, but to reduce "backpressure"
losses
>which cut down on horsepower, torque and fuel-economy. Since increased
>noise is typical, and some systems are intentionally designed to be loud,
>you may want to shop for the exhaust sounds you do or don't want.
Borla
><http://www.borla.com>
is my personal high-quality favorite, because they
>tastefully design for great improvement without being overly loud.
>Keep in mind that on turbo-charged engines, anything you do to improve
flow
>(reduce backpressure) through the exhaust system will pay rewards in
>increased turbo pressure, faster spool-up, and of course, better fuel
>economy. So if a larger down-pipe out of the turbo is an available
option,
>take it: that's a useful upgrade that is sometimes overlooked.
>
>Upgrade to a more fuel-efficient vehicle. But be cautious. Everyone
wants
>to make money from your vehicle change, so be sure to look out for your
best
>interests. There are several ways to do this. First, beware of
sticker
>price. Spending a lot more money to get more fuel economy may not begin
to
>pay you back before you sell the vehicle. Hint: hybrids are getting "hot"
in
>the market, but they are often not worth the money. One reason is
initial
>cost penalty, another is unrealistic fuel-economy claims, and another is
>high replacement costs for the big battery packs that these vehicles use
to
>store and transfer energy. If that 56 mpg turns out to really be 41 mpg
as
>a recent long-term test did in the '05 Toyota Prius vehicle (Car and
Driver
>magazine), and you spent $6k more than an equivalent non-hybrid, and
you're
>faced with a $2,300 battery replacement bill after 3 years and you only
keep
>it for 4 or 5 years... well, the 36 mpg standard vehicle was a better
deal.
>
>
--
Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
GPL Handicap 6.35
ricseyler@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
–SPAM- from email address
--------------------------------------
"Homer no function beer well without."
- H.J. Simpson
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