Some issues you might have to do with the brakes.
- New calipers will eventually do like the old brakes, as the cast iron
pits
form moisture buildup due to lack of use and then they leak. Stainless
steel sleeved brake calipers work better.
- Master cylinders often need to be bench bled. The rebuild kit has
instructions for this. Basically, you take a hose from the output port
and
stick the other end in the reservoir so that as you pump the MC, it blows
bubbles in the reservoir. When the bubbles quit, it is bled.
- Set up of the master cylinder plunger is critical. There is a threaded
adjustment that allows you to place where the plunger fits in the MC
before
it depresses the piston. It must NOT depress it when you are at rest with
the pedal.
- Blowing through the lines is often not possible since you have a
proportioning valve in the lines. These are not true proportioning valves
in that they regulate the pressure to the rear, but rather a balance
system
so that if you lose pressure on one circuit, a piston slides and closes
that
circuit so that pressure stays on the other. When you applied pressure to
one circuit only (rear), you may have closed this valve and thus nothing
flows. Some valves will reset but others have to be reset manually. I do
not know what your car has.
The switch under the steering column between the headlight and wiper
override switches is the parking switch for parking the wipers in the up
position for changing wiper blades.
"George" <georgewbell@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:2d19c529-41f0-4528-b1cb-34adb82b2dbc@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> About the end of March I asked this group about the brakes on my 1970
> 350 cu in. 350 hp. convertible. The consensus was new callipers.
>
> I got new back callipers and all the parking brake bits and that is
> all OK, but before bleeding the rear and replacing the front, I
> decided to blow out all the old fluid from the master cylinder and the
> pipes. I took off the master cylinder, cleaned and re-sealed it and
> assembled it with new 4 dot fluid.
>
> I tried to blow out the pipe to the rear with the rear callipers
> disconnected, but the pipe seemed blocked. The brakes were working OK
> before. I tried sucking with a vacuum supply, but that did not work
> either. So I filled up the master cylinder reservoirs with new fluid
> and tried to pump it through. Apart from a couple of tiny bubbles
> coming out, the fluid did not seem to be going into the cylinder. The
> brake pedal was not building up pressure. So why is this, I have left
> it for the night and maybe it needs some fluid to seep through to
> allow the pumping action to take place?
>
> Has anyone got any ideas as to why this should be. I also would like
> to know what the small (broken) switch is that sits between the two
> vacuum overrides for the headlights and the wiper flap, under the
> steering column. Where do the vac. pipes from these two vac. taps go
> to in the engine compartment? I need to trace out where I am losing
> the vac to these two circuits.
>
> Thanks for any comments; they will be most welcome, if anyone knows.
>
> Regards George.
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