On 30 Apr, 05:56, "Tom In Missouri" <toom...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> Some issues you might have to do with the brakes.
>
> - New calipers will eventually do like the old brakes, as the cast iron
pi=
ts
> form moisture buildup due to lack of use and then they leak.
=A0Stainless
> steel sleeved brake calipers work better.
>
> - Master cylinders often need to be bench bled. =A0The rebuild kit has
> instructions for this. =A0Basically, you take a hose from the output
port =
and
> stick the other end in the reservoir so that as you pump the MC, it
blows
> bubbles in the reservoir. =A0When the bubbles quit, it is bled.
>
> - Set up of the master cylinder plunger is critical. =A0There is a
threade=
d
> adjustment that allows you to place where the plunger fits in the MC
befor=
e
> it depresses the piston. It must NOT depress it when you are at rest
with
> the pedal.
>
> - Blowing through the lines is often not possible since you have a
> proportioning valve in the lines. =A0These are not true proportioning
valv=
es
> in that they regulate the pressure to the rear, but rather a balance
syste=
m
> so that if you lose pressure on one circuit, a piston slides and closes
th=
at
> circuit so that pressure stays on the other. =A0When you applied
pressure =
to
> one circuit only (rear), you may have closed this valve and thus nothing
> flows. =A0Some valves will reset but others have to be reset manually.
=A0=
I do
> not know what your car has.
>
> The switch under the steering column between the headlight and wiper
> override switches is the parking switch for parking the wipers in the up
> position for changing wiper blades.
>
> "George" <georgewb...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>
>
news:2d19c529-41f0-4528-b1cb-34adb82b2dbc@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> > About the end of March I asked this group about the brakes on my 1970
> > 350 cu in. 350 hp. convertible. =A0The consensus was new callipers.
>
> > I got new back callipers and all the parking brake bits and that is
> > all OK, but before bleeding the rear and replacing the front, I
> > decided to blow out all the old fluid from the master cylinder and the
> > pipes. I took off the master cylinder, cleaned and re-sealed it and
> > assembled it with new 4 dot fluid.
>
> > I tried to blow out the pipe to the rear with the rear callipers
> > disconnected, but the pipe seemed blocked. =A0The brakes were working
OK=
> > before. I tried sucking with a vacuum supply, but that did not work
> > either. So I filled up the master cylinder reservoirs with new fluid
> > and tried to pump it through. =A0Apart from a couple of tiny bubbles
> > coming out, the fluid did not seem to be going into the cylinder.
=A0The=
> > brake pedal was not building up pressure. So why is this, I have left
> > it for the night and maybe it needs some fluid to seep through to
> > allow the pumping action to take place?
>
> > Has anyone got any ideas as to why this should be. =A0I also would
like
> > to know what the small (broken) switch is that sits between the two
> > vacuum overrides for the headlights and the wiper flap, under the
> > steering column. Where do the vac. pipes from these two vac. taps go
> > to in the engine compartment? I need to trace out where I am losing
> > the vac to these two circuits.
>
> > Thanks for any comments; they will be most welcome, if anyone knows.
>
> > Regards George.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thank you very much indeed for two very useful and clear replies, You
have saved me hours of investigation - I am sure.
I had a bag of new brake cylinder parts, but no instructions.
Trying to switch off the power to the wipers as they came up out of
the parking area was starting to get up my nose! Now if I can only
find the other end of those vacuum hoses!!!
Thanks and regards. George. (in uk.)
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