On 30 Apr, 08:04, George <georgewb...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> On 30 Apr, 05:56, "Tom In Missouri" <toom...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Some issues you might have to do with the brakes.
>
> > - New calipers will eventually do like the old brakes, as the cast
iron =
pits
> > form moisture buildup due to lack of use and then they leak.
=A0Stainles=
s
> > steel sleeved brake calipers work better.
>
> > - Master cylinders often need to be bench bled. =A0The rebuild kit has
> > instructions for this. =A0Basically, you take a hose from the output
por=
t and
> > stick the other end in the reservoir so that as you pump the MC, it
blow=
s
> > bubbles in the reservoir. =A0When the bubbles quit, it is bled.
>
> > - Set up of the master cylinder plunger is critical. =A0There is a
threa=
ded
> > adjustment that allows you to place where the plunger fits in the MC
bef=
ore
> > it depresses the piston. It must NOT depress it when you are at rest
wit=
h
> > the pedal.
>
> > - Blowing through the lines is often not possible since you have a
> > proportioning valve in the lines. =A0These are not true proportioning
va=
lves
> > in that they regulate the pressure to the rear, but rather a balance
sys=
tem
> > so that if you lose pressure on one circuit, a piston slides and
closes =
that
> > circuit so that pressure stays on the other. =A0When you applied
pressur=
e to
> > one circuit only (rear), you may have closed this valve and thus
nothing=
> > flows. =A0Some valves will reset but others have to be reset manually.
=
=A0I do
> > not know what your car has.
>
> > The switch under the steering column between the headlight and wiper
> > override switches is the parking switch for parking the wipers in the
up=
> > position for changing wiper blades.
>
> > "George" <georgewb...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>
>
>news:2d19c529-41f0-4528-b1cb-34adb82b2dbc@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> > > About the end of March I asked this group about the brakes on my
1970
> > > 350 cu in. 350 hp. convertible. =A0The consensus was new callipers.
>
> > > I got new back callipers and all the parking brake bits and that is
> > > all OK, but before bleeding the rear and replacing the front, I
> > > decided to blow out all the old fluid from the master cylinder and
the=
> > > pipes. I took off the master cylinder, cleaned and re-sealed it and
> > > assembled it with new 4 dot fluid.
>
> > > I tried to blow out the pipe to the rear with the rear callipers
> > > disconnected, but the pipe seemed blocked. =A0The brakes were
working =
OK
> > > before. I tried sucking with a vacuum supply, but that did not work
> > > either. So I filled up the master cylinder reservoirs with new fluid
> > > and tried to pump it through. =A0Apart from a couple of tiny bubbles
> > > coming out, the fluid did not seem to be going into the cylinder.
=A0T=
he
> > > brake pedal was not building up pressure. So why is this, I have
left
> > > it for the night and maybe it needs some fluid to seep through to
> > > allow the pumping action to take place?
>
> > > Has anyone got any ideas as to why this should be. =A0I also would
lik=
e
> > > to know what the small (broken) switch is that sits between the two
> > > vacuum overrides for the headlights and the wiper flap, under the
> > > steering column. Where do the vac. pipes from these two vac. taps go
> > > to in the engine compartment? I need to trace out where I am losing
> > > the vac to these two circuits.
>
> > > Thanks for any comments; they will be most welcome, if anyone knows.
>
> > > Regards George.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Thank you very much indeed for two very useful and clear replies, You
> have saved me hours of investigation - I am sure.
>
> I had a bag of new brake cylinder parts, but no instructions.
>
> Trying to switch off the power to the wipers as they came up out of
> the parking area was starting to get up my nose! =A0Now if I can only
> find the other end of those vacuum hoses!!!
>
> Thanks and regards. George. =A0(in uk.)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
My optimism was a bit premature! I think I had better have a look at
the master cylinder rebuild and bleeding instructions. I have got
brake fluid everywhere and still not managed to make it go through the
pipes, by feeding the pipe outlet back into the reservoir. The only
way I can see to assemble it full of fluid, is to do it in a bucket
and that would take all my nice new paint off the housing. Plus it
would waste a stack of fluid. Does anyone have a copy of the
instructions. Please.
I have decided that the root cause of all my vacuum problems are the
two headlamp actuator relays, - they are both leaking vacuum
internally from the vacuum feed inlet. I cannot see any way to
repair these and I have ordered two more. This is where my vacuum has
been going since the word go. Mice biting the pipe in the wiper park
detection area did not help.
After getting a new seal for the wiper door actuator this circuit
works ok and the headlamps will pop up and down if I feed vacuum
directly to the actuators. Lifting off the bonnet - hood (?) (on my
own) was "interesting" I had to rig up ropes all over the place.
Thanks and regards, George.
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