Steve Lusardi wrote:
> I know that and I agree with your observation of shop manuals. I build a
lot
> of motors and now have to use a 4 gas analyzer to tune, as there are no
> visible indicators anymore on the plugs. You only see ash now with
racing
> fuel.
> Steve
And all this time I have been sweating my pearly white insulators.
Damn... time to find something else to sweat over.
>
> "Simpson" <"tinauxide butylflex"@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:X0bGj.30157$R84.19579@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Steve Lusardi wrote:
>>> Unless you are using leaded gasoline or burning lube oil there is no
>>> color change, as there is no more ash. The lead in gas created lead
>>> bromide ash which lubricated the valves and valve seats. That ash
>>> appeared as a light tan deposit on the plugs. Eroded electrodes and
>>> anodes indicates over heated plugs, so if you are using the correct
heat
>>> range, no or very low erosion will occur. So, the answer to your
question
>>> is, yes, you can have a bad plug due to ceramic cracking, carbon
tracking
>>> or resister failure and have it not be visible.
>>> Steve
>> That's interesting about the tan coloring no longer being an indicator
of
>> a healthy engine and a correct air fuel mixture. Someone needs to tell
the
>> writers of shop manuals. Leaded fuel began being phased out in the US
in
>> 1973 and have been totally banned for on-road vehicles for 12 years
now.
>>
>>> "Simpson" <"tinauxide butylflex"@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>>> news:AUgFj.35283$J41.27952@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>> I pose this question in my ongoing quest to improve performance on my
87
>>>> Dakota without spending unnecessarily.
>>>>
>>>> Actually, it's not the spending that bothers me. I just don't feel
like
>>>> changing my plugs. Condemn me for a lazy good-for-nothing if you
will,
>>>> but that's just the way it is today.
>>>>
>>>> The reason I know that they look healthy is that every once in a
while I
>>>> pull one to see how it's doing.
>>>>
>>>> Hello, plug
>>>> How ya doin'?
>>>> I come to watch your changing huin'
>>>>
>>>> (huin' - slangy contraction of 'hueing', from 'hue', a gradation or
>>>> variety of a color; tint)
>>>>
>>>> The plugs have nice, unworn, square electrodes and are properly
gapped
>>>> and, over all, have a nice healthy appearance, albeit the ceramic
>>>> insulators are a bit on the white side. Can I assume that they are in
>>>> good shape? Or is there some internal condition, unseen by mortal
eye,
>>>> that can develop, that causes plug performance to deteriorate?
>>>>
>>>> The truck idles a bit rough, nothing at all severe, but something
that I
>>>> think could be improved. I am ruling out the fuel delivery for the
>>>> moment and concentrating on the ignition. The cap and rotor appear to
be
>>>> in good condition. The ignition wires all measure a bit below the low
>>>> end of the resistance range as specified in the service manual, 250
to
>>>> 600 ohms per inch. Mine are about 200 to 220 ohms per inch and are
not
>>>> that old.
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