"GeekBoy" <nospam@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:47fa3a63$0$11376$4c368faf@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> "TBone" <NoWay@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:47fa237d$0$12576$4c368faf@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Did you check for voltage at the starter main lug (where the heavy
cable
>> connects)?
>>
>
> I will do that in a little while. When I tried it yesterday, the battery
was
> dead and I got 0 voltage.
If you got 0 volts measuring at the battery posts the battery is junk.
You
want to check for a draw when you replace the battery so you don't ruin
the
next one.
>
>
>> --
>> If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
>>
>> "GeekBoy" <nospam@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>> news:47f9ba67$0$4955$4c368faf@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>
>>> "Max Dodge" <max340@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>>> news:PNhKj.1962$bQ1.1844@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>> First, put a battery charger on the battery for over night. Get a
load
>>>> tester, and check the battery for resilience after the load. OR, use
a
>>>> multimeter, and watch voltage as you remove the charger. If its
dropping,
>>>> then you have a problem. If not, try to start the van. If the voltage
>>>> drops below 10.5v, and the starter turns, suspect battery problems.
If
>>>> the voltage drops out and the starter does not turn, replace the
starter.
>>>> This assumes the engine is not seized.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I just went out and tried it because the charger has been on the
battery
>>> for the past 5 hours.
>>> I tried both of what you mention. The volage at battery was about 13.5
>>> volts with charger and really did not drop after charger was removed.
>>> I put meter on battery and tried to start. I went from 13.xx to about
>>> 12.88 at start position then back up to 12.98 after I turned the key
to
>>> off position, but still no starter movement or noise. Solenoid is on
>>> starter.
>>>
>>> Bad starter now?
>>> Should I still try to jump the starter terminals?
>>>
>>> Thanks for the input
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Always load test the battery and check its voltage first when
diagnosing
>>>> an automotive electrical problem. This proves that your power source
is
>>>> good, allowing you to find the problem, rather than wonder how much
>>>> voltage you lost in the bad circuit.
>>>>
>>>> (settles in to await the inevitable horde of electrical engineers and
>>>> wannabees that will contradict proper 12v neg ground troubleshooting)
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Max
>>>>
>>>> "Everyone is entitled to his own opinion, he is not entitled to his
own
>>>> facts." Sen. Daniel Patrick Moynihan of New York
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "GeekBoy" <nospam@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>>>> news:47f9a490$0$30680$4c368faf@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>>> Friday: Started my vehicle, but had problems. Sounded like battery
had
>>>>> charge problem, but started anyway.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Saturday: Tried to start vehicle. Turned over but battery died.
Later
>>>>> tried charging battery in evening with "smart charger." Before the
>>>>> charger, the whole eletrical system would shut down, but the CHECK
>>>>> ENGINE light would come on when the door was open. (It's a 94 Ford
>>>>> Aerostar - Other groups are dying) Now I have the charger going on
the
>>>>> battery it no longer does that.
>>>>>
>>>>> Sunday Battery dead again, Charge again. Tried to start again.
Nothing.
>>>>> So I asked a neighbor to help me and try a jump start. Still nothing
>>>>> coming from starter. So what I did was test the start relay and
jumped
>>>>> the terminals. Nothing again. Not even a spark, even though I did
put a
>>>>> meter at the opposite terminal and grounded it to see if I got
voltage
>>>>> when I turned to the key to the START position.
>>>>>
>>>>> I did try jumping the terminals at the starter this morning, but got
>>>>> nothing because the batter was dead.
>>>>>
>>>>> I still need to try to jump at the starter again.
>>>>>
>>>>> So I am wondering bad battery or bad starter?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
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