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Autos - Cars > Dodge - Trucks > Re: Ramcharger ...
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Re: Ramcharger w/failed charging system. Stuck and need help/advice.

by "MoParMaN" <scott.hendryx.clothes@[EMAIL PROTECTED] > May 1, 2008 at 11:03 AM

<grimisme@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message 
news:3c38eb52-fd43-4fcb-bdbe-c871eb4e916e@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Truck details:
> 86 Dodge Ramcharger SE, 360 4x4, auto, tilt, no A/C.
>
> Problem:
> Charging system failure.
>
> Symptoms:
> Electrical outputs diminished (things light light output, power
> windows and wipers are slow, etc). Increasing load on the system makes
> lights go dim, stereo to shut off, wipers to slow, and so on.
> Increasing engine or idle speed does NOT counter this effect, nor
> cause the system to come back up to full power. Vehicle doesn't start
> without a jump.
>
> Tests:
> Before it died on me I stopped into a Schucks and had them do their
> electrical test. The result pointed to the alternator as the failure.
> I took the alternator in by itself (the first test was done in the
> vehicle). Two bench tests showed the alternator to be fine.
>
> Next I tested the battery voltage with the truck off. Voltage was just
> a touch under 12v, yet I had to jump it in order to get it running
> again.
>
> With the truck running I checked voltage at the battery again and it
> still read 11.4. Revving the engine did not increase voltage.
>
> I then disconnected the voltage regulator and ran a jumper from the
> green wire connection to ground to perform a full field test. With the
> truck running again, I tested voltage at the battery leads and it read
> 13. Again, voltage did not increase or drop with engine speed.
>
> My manual indicated the voltage should jump to between 14 and 16
> volts, and to only run this test long enough to get a reading. After I
> saw the voltage went up 13v but stayed steady, I feel I have ruled out
> the regulator as the problem. This is also still under voltage,
> correct? Normal voltage should be around 14v. Bypassing the regulator
> only bumped it up slightly.
>
> Following the test procedure in my manual, I then disconnected the neg
> batt cable and then hooked up a test lamp between the negative cable
> and negative post. The light came on. I disconnected the alternator,
> and the light stayed on. The manual says this means there is a short.
>
> Next, leaving the test lamp in place and the ignition off I started
> pulling fuses to find out what system the short is in. The light goes
> off when I pull the fuse at #7 (HORNS) and #9 (DOME STOP LMP). Is it
> interesting to note that the test light will come back on if I pull
> the headlight switch out?
>
> Now we come to the crux. It would seem I have a short in both of those
> circuits. But do I really?
>
> Here's why I ask.
>
> The test lamp is acting in lieu of a direct connection of the cable to
> the post. I would expect that the test lamp would of course come on if
> I pull the headlight switch out because lights work even when the
> ignition is off.
>
> The horn and interior/brake lights are also made to work when the
> ignition is off. BUT, I would expect the test lamp to be OFF unless I
> was doing something to close those circuits like honking the horn or
> actually stepping on the brake or turning on the interior lamps.
>
> I pulled the leads to the horns, brake light switch and interior
> lights and still read voltage at those fuse slots AND the test lamp is
> on unless I pull those two fuses. I jiggled each of the smaller
> harnesses around hoping to see the test lamp blink off but no dice.
>
> My manual does have the wiring diagram, but only shows the circuit for
> #9. For #7, 8 and 10 it only shows their presence on the fuse block,
> not their wiring.
>
> So what do I do here? Does any of this make sense to anyone? Where
> else should I be looking or what else can I test?
>
> Thanks,
> R(k)
>
Has a similar problem with a ford ranger, turned out to be the cable
running 
from the battery to the starter was corroded inside of the wiring.  You 
couldn't see it with the ****d eye, but when you cut the cable, it was all

green and corroded.  It will pull a load on the battery, even when not 
running ( like your 11. something volts indicate above) and will never let

the battery charge due to the constant drain.

I'm pretty sure that's where your problem is.

-- 
------MoParMaN------
---Scud Coordinates 32.61204 North 96.92989 West---
--Remove Clothes to Reply!--

TEDWARD Said:

Eggs are really good for you.  They have all the nutrition needed to make
a 
chicken.
 




 7 Posts in Topic:
Ramcharger w/failed charging system. Stuck and need help/advice.
grimisme@[EMAIL PROTECTED  2008-04-30 21:04:24 
Re: Ramcharger w/failed charging system. Stuck and need help/adv
"MoParMaN" <  2008-05-01 11:03:58 
Re: Ramcharger w/failed charging system. Stuck and need help/adv
"TBone" <NoW  2008-05-01 10:36:57 
Re: Ramcharger w/failed charging system. Stuck and need help/adv
Bob AZ <rwatson767@[E  2008-05-01 13:11:39 
Re: Ramcharger w/failed charging system. Stuck and need help/adv
grimisme@[EMAIL PROTECTED  2008-05-01 14:06:04 
Re: Ramcharger w/failed charging system. Stuck and need help/adv
"TBone" <NoW  2008-05-01 18:05:24 
Re: Ramcharger w/failed charging system. Stuck and need help/adv
grimisme@[EMAIL PROTECTED  2008-05-01 14:07:05 

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tan13V112 Thu Jul 24 14:10:42 CDT 2008.