On Nov 25, 12:26 pm, "Baldrick" <rick.ha...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> Hi Nick
>
> Many thanks for the information.
>
> My 'tame' mechanic has now helped me have a go at this but we couldn't
> remove the control valve as one of the screw heads became mashed. So we
> tightened the unit up again and gave all connections la****ngs ofWD40and
> it's now running better, not perfect, but loads better (good enough to
> sell). This seems to confirm it may be the idle control valve so I am
now
> going to replace it. I've found them on eBay for =A320-25 so it's worth
a =
try.
> Although it seems tricky working out which one to get. Have tried
reading
> the part number on the side of the existing valve but it doesn't match
wha=
t
> the 2 companies state on eBay.
>
> I'll update you when I sort it out.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Rick
>
> "Nick /////" <re...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>
> news:46fad340$0$56163$7b0f0fd3@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> > "Baldrick" <rick.ha...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> >news:G8zKi.34962$ka7.15159@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> Hi Nick
>
> >> Yes, it's states Multi-Point Injection on black plastic oil filter
> >> housing and also MPI on the ECU. The 'log' book says 1242 cc.
>
> >> Rick
>
> > Ok.
>
> > Without digging deeper I'm now assuming that the 1.2MPI is essentially
t=
he
> > same as the Magnetti Mirelleli MPI unit fitted to the Tempra 1.8ie.
>
> > Follow this:
>
> > Locate the manifold inlet tubes at the cylinder head itself. Follow
the=
m
> > back and possibly upwards. They will probably all meet/interface with
a=
> > large chamber/body that joins them together. This is the plenum
chamber=
..
> > At one end of this is the throttle body. After the throttle body is a
> > large tube assembly that leads to the air filter and beyond. Around
> > either side of the throttle body there may be two hoses (obe either
side=
)
> > that lead off to a valve, called the air bypass valve. This may be
> > located at the end of the cylinder head above the gearbox and between
th=
e
> > battery box.
>
> > The purpose of this valve is to act as a variable bypass around the
> > throttle plate thus adjusting the engine idle revs. They are know to
> > stick with age.
>
> > Here is the contents of a post I have made on this in the past. (22
Apri=
l
> > 2007)
>
> > 1) Check for leaks/cracks etc in all air hoses attached to the inlet
> > manifold. This include the brake vacuum hose. Also operate the brake
> > pedal and listen for engine speed or note changes.
>
> > 2) Sticking idle control solenoid - this could be either a mechanical
> > operation on the throttle butterfly or an air bypass valve. If you
have=
> > an air bypass solenoid then one should service this as sticking is a
> > known problem. Easy to do. Just remove the valve and inspect inside.
> > Gently remove any deposits. Flush / fill withWD-40and agitate. If it
> > is really dirty then wash out with white spirit, dry and give a very
> > good soak withWD-40. Another trick is to allow the engine management
> > system to modulate the valve when you haveWD-40in it. Easy to do by
> > only making the electrical connection, fill withWD-40and hand/finger
> > seal the hose connection points and then get somebody to turn the
> > ignition on (DO NOT START). The ECU will open and close the valve a
> > couple of times. Repeat ignition on/off cycle a few times.
>
> > The valve is officially called VAE Valve.
>
> > 3) Incorrect static air bypass setting. Tempra Magnetti Marelli fuel
> > injection systems had this identified by a grub screw and locking nut
> > located on the throttle body. This sets a minimum air bypass and thus
> > idle speed so that the air bypass valve has a nominal point about
which
> > to operate. To set this up one has to disconnect the electrical
> > connection to the air bypass valve. The car should not stall be yours
> > may. If this happens then reconnect the valve. Adjust the grub screw
> > out. Initially nothing may happen as the bypass valve will
> > automatically compensate for your adjustment. Get the revs to about
> > 1000rpm. Now you can disconnect the valve connector and proceed to
> > adjust the grub screw till the revs are about 650 to 700rpm. Now
connect=
> > the valve connector again and the revs will briefly rise to about 1200
> > rpm or so and then drop back again to about 850 rpm.
>
> > Lastly blip the throttle and check that the car does not stall or idle
> > too low. Test drive as well. You may find that you have to have a
> > couple of cycles in setting the bypass grub screw. Setting too low
revs=
> > will cause stalling etc. and too high will mean too fast and idle.
>
> > 4) If all of 3) still does not work to your satisfaction then there
was
> > a Fiat service bulletin that modified the original set-up as in 3) to
> > actually set the grub screw get engine revs of 900rpm (or as low a you
> > can get to 850rpm) so that when the VAE valve electrical connection is
> > removed/connected there is NO variation in rpm. I never had to do
this
> > as I found that the method and settings in 3) was perfectly OK for my
> > Tempra. You may find that you need to go with this 4) method.
>
> > Lastly if the Marea uses a mechanical solenoid directly operating on
the=
> > throttle body butterfly (Most Fiat single point injection systems
like
> > in the Tipo use this method) then just like the air bypass grub screw
in=
> > 3 & 4, there will be a similar grub screw to set the base throttle
> > opening from which the solenoid lifts the engine revs.
>
> > I leave the rest for you to sort out :-)
>
> > Nick /////- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yikes, don't use WD-40 on electrical connections. Use DeoxIT
(www.deoxit.com).
For mechanical us WD-40, for electrical use DeoxIT
Mike
|
