I don't recall a posting with as much mis-information as you have in the
last two.
Static ignition timing is 10° BTDC. A prior post explained how to set it
properly so I won't rehash that here.
>>at top dead center the rotor won't point to the number one plug because
at
>>idle your timing should be around 15 degrees before t.d.c. initial
timing.
>>while not running , when you spin the motor back to 15 degrees b.t.d.c,
on
>>the compression stroke, then the rotor will line up to where ever you
have
>>#1
The distributor rotates one revolution for every two engine revolutions.
That means that +/- 5° distributor revolution will be pointed at the
correct
distributor terminal. I don't know about anyone else, but I find it
pretty
darn hard to tell within 5° where a rotor is pointed, particularly when
there are, what, 12 teeth on the distributor so each one of those changes
the rotation by 30°. If you pick the gear engagement that gets you as
close
as possible to the terminal you want to point at, you should have more
than
enough cable/wiring to rotate the distributor to the proper timing. IOW,
line the thing up with the terminal and go from there.
The easiest way I've found to do that is to simply put the cap on the
distributor with it out of the engine and mark the distributor body in
line
with the #1 terminal. Take the cap off and extend that mark to the top of
the housing area so you can easily see it, then drop the distributor in so
it lines up with that mark. (I'm assuming that you already have the
engine
at TDC compression #1 cylinder).
As Phil said, you MUST put the ECM in the diagnostic mode to lock the
ignition timing. Doing this disables the electronic spark advance. There
is no way to do it other than with a timing light.
A common mistake is putting the wires on in the incorrect firing order
either by mistake in wire routing, mistake in cylinder numbering, or
putting
them on in the wrong rotation on the cap. I've seen all three methods
(and
more) and none of the people that did it were idiots, they simply made a
mistake.
I'd be more interested in knowing how and when this all started. Did it
run
perfectly and then one day, bang, it wouldn't run right? Was it a gradual
thing that got worse? Did you try to time it or give it a tune up and it
hasn't run right since? Did it get hot? Any unusual noises? More
information would aid in figuring out what was wrong.
> cam timing is a little more complicated but basically put #1 cylinder
to
> tdc
> and put the cam to where both the lobes are causing the lifters to rise
> for
> that cylinder.
> this is right at the intake opening and the exhaust closing even on the
> cam.
> then put the chain on and call it a day.
I hope you never build an engine for me. There are timing marks on the
cam
and crank gear, they are there for a reason. I suggest you use them.
> check your rockers for proper adjustment.
> some idiot might think its a ford and torque them down.
> on that motor proper adjustment is 0 lash and a 90 degree turn (3 thou
> preload)
1/4 turn? .003 preload? Good luck on that one. Yeah, sometimes that's
enough. Most of the time you're going to get at least one lifter that's
going to clatter on you out of the 12. Often times more than one. IIRC,
it
was re****ted that the Haynes or Chilton manual has this listed
incorrectly,
something like 3 turns tight after 0 lash. That's way too tight.
Normally
a happy medium is about 3/4 of a turn, assuming you have found actual 0
lash, and most people don't really find that.
Crane, Comp Cams, and GM all recommend between .020-.060" preload. With
the
Fiero rocker studs, that is between 1/2 and 1 1/4 turn. That's where the
3/4 turn recommendation comes from.
John Stricker
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