On Fri, 23 May 2008 13:23:10 -0700, "Pipedown" <pipedown@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
wrote:
>I too like to top post but its hard to be consistant when nobody else is.
>The problem is tem****arily solved by connecting the MIL lamp wire to the
CEL
>by installing a missing wire. The end result has the CEL fla****ng steady
>for 30 seconds then turning off after starting the engine. Without
starting
>the engine, the CEL works correctly.
Just connect the cel in parallel with any other light that comes on
with the key on and goes out with the engine started.
Then it will behave like a CEL, even though it won't tell anyone
anything.
>
>Somethings ether not hooked up to the ECC or out of range. It seems to
work
>otherwise lighting the lamp if you force a code. I suppose I could rig a
>timed relay to open for 30 seconds after starting. The CEL would work
>normally for all but a half minute. I'm not very comfortable with that
>solution though. Its not defeating the system but it is masking
something.
>For all I know, its simply due to the wrong computer being used with this
>engine.
>
>
>
>"Jim Warman" <mechanic@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>news:ZRrZj.3663$Yp.2601@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>I was trying to follow this thread in the hopes that I could supply a
>>"magic bullet"... However, I grew tired of scrolling to the bottomof
each
>>and every post to see what might have been offered as a resolution....
>>
>> WTF is it with all this "Netiquette" that has us making it so hard to
see
>> the object of our desires...
>>
>> I'm probably pissing a lot of people off by posting "at the top"....
Why?
>> If you are following this thread, you will already be "up to speed" on
>> it - if not, it will be "up to you" to become "up to speed" on it.
>> Instead, we will make others endure countless lines of drivel knowing
that
>> there is a very real chance that they will miss anything meaningful in
the
>> avalanche of redundant information...
>>
>> All of you bottom posters should return your attention to the
"DING!"...
>> my fries were overdone...
>>
>> For the original poster.... the only acess I have to EVTMs this old is
to
>> make the hike up that long flight of stairs to access our paper
>> manuals.... Sorry - you lose...
>>
>> However, you will find that most (and it is a very,very fine line that
>> keeps me from saying "all") PCM outputs are ground side switched. This
>> means (depending on your knowledge of the DMM) that you should be able
to
>> find B+ at the "hot" side of the CEL bulb with the key on. What you
find
>> here is going to decide your next step.
>>
>> What I see is a whole whack of posts... too hard to follow for the
>> aforementioned idiocy... that offer uneducated "what ifs" (as far as I
>> read).
>>
>> This problem should be a "no brainer" and it has generated more replies
>> than any other question for a long time....
>>
>>
>> "pipedown" <pipedown@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>> news:xrmWj.3458$J16.971@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> No its not stuck on, its stuck off. It does not illuminate briefly
when
>>> you start the truck and thus will not pass a smog check in CA.
>>>
>>> I'll be fixing this 1988 Ford Ranger P/U this weekend and having done
>>> some homework already, I still need a tip. As background this truck
did
>>> have a problem where it just stalled out and wouldn't start again.
That
>>> problem was traced to a wire harness that came loose and got burned on
>>> the manefold causing (at least) one of the wires to go open.
Evidently
>>> the one needed to keep things running. That was fixed through visual
>>> inspection with a little help from a Ford explorer 1993 shop manual.
>>>
>>> Now I suspect the check engine light problem is the same cause (open
wire
>>> in harness) only I don't know which wire to trace. I checked several
>>> repair guides and none show the check engine light and what wire it is
>>> associated with it. If I could just determine the color and
connectors
>>> it runs through this would be easy.
>>>
>>> I'm not usually one to suspect conspiricy but really. WRT the ECC and
>>> associated sensors and idiot lights; Chiltons and Haynes only show a
>>> picture of some parts and say its too complicated to troubleshoot. OK
>>> expected. The FORD shop manuals for my 93 Explorer have a single page
>>> saying check the third manual (you don't have). The EVTM
>>> (electrical/vacuum troubleshooting manual) for the 84 Ranger (by ford
>>> again) shows most of the wires to the ECC but not the idiot light
(check
>>> engine).
>>>
>>> If anyone has the ECC repair manual for just about any ford truck
>>> (ranger, bronco II, Explorer in the 1983 to 1993 range you can
probably
>>> determine the wire color for me.
>>>
>>> Yes, I will check the bulb first. So far I have only visually traced
the
>>> wire harness back to the ECC so it seems likely there is another open
>>> wire in there.
>>>
>>> My second option is to trace the wire from the lamp back to the open
>>> using a signal tracer (triplett fox and hound). That will work but at
>>> the cost of more effort.
>>>
>>>
>>> Does anyone have any insight as to why this indicator lamp would be
>>> excluded from most service manuals.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
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