On Mar 5, 10:25 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> highkm wrote:
> > On Mar 5, 12:42 am, jim beam <spamvor...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> >> dxmah wrote:
> >>> Hi all:
> >>> I'm anticipating the front brake pads on my 2005 Honda Accord Hybrid
will
> >>> have to be replaced soon. What's the differences (pros/cons) between
> >>> semi-metallic and ceramic pads? W
> >>> hich one should I consider? Do brand names (e.g. Raybestos) really
make a
> >>> difference? Thanks for any input!
> >> 1. please learn to cross post. that way both honda groups can see
all
> >> the answers.
>
> >> 2. if you want best overall performance, i.e. low dust, lowest brake
> >> disk wear, longest life and best resistance to fade, use oem honda
pads.
> >> especially as they cost just about the same as aftermarket. in
fact,
> >> they're better value when you consider that they also come with ****ms
> >> and grease, whereas most aftermarket pads don't.
>
> >> 3. what mileage do you have? many here change pads upwards of 60k
miles.
>
> >> to emphasize, resistance to fade is a big deal - many aftermarket
pads
> >> are abysmal in this regard. in normal use, you may not notice, but
when
> >> you need it, you really need it, and you don't want to discover this
> >> halfway down california st in san francisco as a cable car lurches
> >> across the street in front of you.
>
> > I started to develop brake problems on a 4cyl 2003 Accord after
> > 16,000KM. Dealer replaced them for free but at 60,000 same problem
> > occurred. I replaced the rotors
>
> you mean "warped" rotors? that's usually easily cured, and it doesn't
> take expensive aftermarket rotors to do it. see below for reason and
cure.
>
> > on the front only to Cross drilled and
> > clotted manufactured by DBA (Disk Brakes Australia - model DBA
> > 4488XS). Also switched to HWAK ferro carbon, front and back. I have a
> > total of approximately 340,000 on the rotors and I am on the second
> > set of pads. The rotors were expensive. They are about 25% worn. This
> > braking setup shows no fading even after very hard multiple braking
> > tests. However, the pads do shed red dust,
>
> that's from the disk, not the pad. it's iron oxide.
>
> > but wash easily. It was
> > mentioned that the OEM pads are very good. Not sure what that means.
>
> as stated before, it means they generate low dust, don't cause excessive
> wear on the disk, and they don't fade.
>
> > I
> > can warp the original Honda rotors in one application,
>
> no you can't. you can have a problem that's misdiagnosed as warp. see
> below.
>
> > or glaze the
> > pads in one application.
>
> that's a fitting incompetence problem. see below.
>
> > I have been driving Honda cars since 1991,
> > and none of them had good brakes. In fact that is my major complaint
> > about Honda/Acura cars.
>
> there is a reason you're consistently having problems - you're
> consistently doing something wrong. possibly as many as three things
> actually.
>
> first though, you need to understand something very im****tant about
> honda - they make vehicles that handle well and perform efficiently.
> both these qualities require low unsprung weight at the wheels. the
> easiest way to achieve that is to minimize, within reason, the mass of
> the hub and the disk. consequently, honda use thin lightweight hubs,
> and disks. the down side is that this is less tolerant of the following
> problems:
>
> 1. if lug nuts are not correctly torqued, i.e. with a torque wrench, and
> in the right sequence, the hub will not seat square relative to the
wheel.
>
> 2. same if there is corrosion at the hub/wheel interface.
>
> 3. this last problem is not unique to honda - disk contamination while
> servicing. dirty greasy fingers leave patches on the disk which can
> glaze and cause performance problems. tegger has a page on his recent
> encounter with this on his website. disks need to be kept clean and
> grease free.
>
> #'s 1 & 2 are by far the commonest cause of rotor "warping", and most
> im****tantly, can be easily cured. simply clean the face of the hub with
> a scraper, and the inside of the wheel where it seats against the hub.
> then smear a little antiseize on these mating surfaces. take care not
> to get any on the disk. then replace the wheel and torque in the
> correct sequence, 1-3-2-4, in a two or more stage process, using a
> torque wrench. do NOT use air tools.
>
> for most people, this will cure "honda disk warp", every time. without
> need to replace or skim any disks. or spend vast sums on expensive
> aftermarket components that are not necessary or worse, actually
inferior.
I adhere to all the best practices (+ more) that you've mentioned. I
appreciate your advice and comments, but after I switched to ABS
rotors and Hawk brake pads servicing frequencies reduced, brake
efficiency increased, durability improved, and although the cost when
compared to the OEM equipment increased, the overall satisfaction
dramatically improved as well. As a comparison (in Ontario), the front
rotors are $100 each. The front pad set is just over$90. Total with
taxes is over $300. I paid the same amount for ABS rotors and Hawk
pads (ordered from US). I have over the long run saved a lot of money
while improving th braking system. What more can one ask for.
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