Thanks to you and miles, C.R.
I was wondering about the valve train (because the tapping was about the
right rate for that) but figured that the concentration of noise at the
bottom of the engine pointed to bottom end trouble. I'll certainly pass
along the recommendation for 5W-30 synthetic. I know the increased
detergency reputation of synthetic is controversial in some corners, but
I'm
a believer. Combine that with the onset of winter and it's a no-brainer.
I was talking this over with my partner, who was an apprentice Audi
mechanic
before he got into technical fields. He suggested the engine may have
experienced oil starvation and was shimmed or otherwise patched before it
was sold. I remember when I was underneath the engine the pan gasket was
hidden by red sealant, but I didn't really give it much thought. I hope
that's not what the deal is.
Mike
"C.R." <keyes04@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:qeahm3ptcqs3hids3sh01mpktmvbksd5sa@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> The following was posted here quite a while back (I saved it):
>
>>You should really consider using the lighter weight Mobil 1 like 5w30.
>>I'm not
>>sure if your car is, but many Isuzus with the 3.2 are suceptible to the
>>valve
>>train noise that is really annoying once you get it. My 95.5 Rodeo got
it
>>and
>>I followed the TSB using 0w30 Mobil 1 and it instantly cured my problem.
>>Since
>>then I have used Mobil 1 5w30 vs regular 10w30 I used before. My engine
>>is
>>quieter than ever and I usually go about 5,000 between oil changes which
>>helps
>>justify the extra cost. Sythetics keep the engine cleaner, and sludge
is
>>what
>>causes this valve ticking in some Isuzu engines due to narrow oil
passages
>>for
>>the valve train.
>
> Personally, I've used nothing but a good synthetic since 1978, and my
> wife's 2004 Rodeo only has that problem when it's coming time for an
> oil change. I only change every year or 25,000 miles, due to the
> quality of synthetic I use, though filters get changed every 6 months
> or 12,500 miles. I use a 0w30, and once the oil has been changed
> (along with the filter, of course), the problem goes away very quickly
> (presumably the oil passages get cleaned out, since good quality
> synthetics do a nice job of cleaning, also).
>
> You might want to try a good engine cleaning (with a QUALITY, mild
> engine cleaner), and try a 0w30 good quality synthetic such as Amsoil
> (yes - I'm biased - I've been using it for nearly 30 years and have
> results that fully justify my bias//and no, I don't sell it or work
> for the company). Just be cautious with a synthetic if the ½ quart
> low oil is due to usage, rather than just a slight under-fill at the
> last oil change. Sometimes if an engine is using oil, it uses it
> "even better" upon switching to a synthetic, ironically because of the
> excellent cleaning properties of a good synthetic. Since your wife's
> friend's vehicle is a 2000, that might be a factor - check the mileage
> first before considering the above idea. Personally, if it was moving
> toward 100,000 miles, I'd be cautious switching over to a synthetic.
> But if it's been regularly changed, is tight (i.e. no leaks and no
> significant usage between changes), I'd say give it a try before
> spending a lot of money on it. Just don't let it go too long, so it
> doesn't cause a more catastophic failure (i.e. big $$$).
>
> Oh - also if the vehicle has been almost exclusively an around-town,
> low mileage vehicle, I'd change oil and take it out on an interstate
> or major highway for 50-100 miles, then see what's happening with the
> noise. My wife's Rodeo is very sensitive to severe-service (i.e.
> around-town driving almost exclusively), and makes all sorts of noises
> after a while. A freeway trip of 100+ miles and it quiets down and
> gas mileage leaps up.
>
> Good luck. Hope this helps and it's not a major engine problem for
> your wife's friend.
>
> C.R.
>
> On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 11:47:51 -0700, "Michael Pardee"
> <michaeltnull@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
>>Greetings from a rank newbie who doesn't even have an Izuzu...
>>
>>The husband of one of my wife's co-workers called today for help with
his
>>recently purchased 2000 Rodeo. (I can't believe I am involved, but
that's
>>another story.) He bought the Rodeo from a private party a couple months
>>ago, and last night it developed a worrisome tapping sound. The problem
>>was
>>not apparent when he started his five mile trip in town but he heard it
>>when
>>he parked. The sound has not changed in intensity, and is the same warm
as
>>it is cold.
>>
>>I met him at a local parking lot, and he's right: it is loud and
>>worrisome.
>>It is a sharp, light tap that is twice the rate of a rod knock and
doesn't
>>have the deep thunk that rod knocks have. It is plainly audible fifty
feet
>>away under conditions that carry a voice only twenty feet. The sound is
>>much
>>louder under the engine than above, and remains the same when I disable
>>cylinders one at a time. The oil level is decent (1/2 qt low) and the
oil
>>appears to be a couple months old - probably changed before it was sold.
>>
>>I advised him to mimimize his driving and stay off the freeways until he
>>could get it to a real mechanic to determine exactly what is knocking.
I'm
>>concerned a rod end cap may have broken at one end.
>>
>>Does any of this ring a bell?
>>
>>
>
>
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