"Greg Rozelle" <invaild@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:LtbOi.4616$oA2.1010@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Sun, 07 Oct 2007 19:58:36 GMT, "DunnoWho"
> <corolla4dx@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
>>You might have fuel injectors that are getting plugged. It is really
CHEAP
>>to put some injector cleaner into your gas tank. You can even buy it at
>>Wall;yu-Mart for maybe a buck. I had one injector changed on a 97 P.U.
2.4
>>liter and it made a Big Difference. The mechanic had said my problem
>>*wasn't* that #4 injector - but the check engine alarm said #4 cylinder
>>was
>>misfiring. The mechanic/technician stated that because he could NOT hear
>>the
>>injector making any noise he felt "sure" that wasn't my problem - - -
>>Wrong.
>>This truck had far better power and smoothness after that injector got
>>changed. That mechanic told me the Nissan fuel injectors are well known
as
>>being prone to getting plugged up.
>>
>>Then we were using some bad "grocery store" cheap gas for a while and
BOTH
>>my truck and wife's car started running rough as a cob. I began using
some
>>injector cleaner and both our vehicles started running okay after that.
>>Probably the best injector cleaner I've used was some I believe was from
>>an
>>anti-freeze company like maybe (?) Prestone I bought in a Pep Boys. It
was
>>in a tall silver or gray plastic bottle and it probably cost more than
>>most
>>clearers. It worked great! The ac***ulated carbon that then got burned
out
>>of the truck combustion chambers caused that truck to overheat quite a
bit
>>for the first several miles after the injector cleaner was poured in!
>>IMPRESSIVE!
>>
>>Another problem this '97 XE pickup (4 cylinder) has had is the original
>>distributer cap gets dirty (why????) INSIDE and it can cause the engine
to
>>be hard to start - especially in wet weather. ROUGH running and hard
>>starting also can be caused when the high tension wires to the spark
plugs
>>get dirty. I once met an electrical engineer who told me about that. He
>>would take a rag and carefully clean off his high voltage wires to the
>>spark
>>plugs. With a dirty distributer or spark plug wires, the dirt will
attract
>>moisture and that allows the spark plug voltege & current to leak off
>>("short circuit") though the 'dirt' to the vehicle ground = chassis.
What
>>works REAL nice to heal your electrical leakage probelm (short circuit
of
>>high voltage to ground) is to buy a can of silicone spray & coat the
plug
>>wires & distributer with that stuff. After the silicone gets soaked-into
>>the
>>plug wires, the wires tend to repel water a lot better, - - - a can of
>>silicone spray is cheap insurance.
>>
>>"Greg Rozelle" <invaild@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>>news:fUpNi.4254$oA2.1319@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> 1993 Nissan Altima GXE
>>>
>>> Car rough idle problem need help.
>>>
>>> I know I asked this before. I am going to be a little bit more
>>> detailed.
>>>
>>> When in park, neutral it shakes
>>> When in reverse it shakes worse.
>>> When in drive it shakes under 30 mph.
>>> When going above 30 it shakes a lot less or does not shake at all.
>>> Shakes at stops.
>>>
>>> From Reading
>>> Spark plugs & wires seem to be the most cause even if they look new.
>>> Wouldn't a compression test tell if it is bad spark plugs?
>>>
>>> Next is a fuel filter. Which I am tempted to try.
>>>
>>> The other is a fuel injector.
>>>
>>>
>>> Greg Rozelle
>>>
>>>
>
> It should not be the distributor or bad gas or fuel filter. I have
> eliminated those problems.
>
> distributor was replaced last year.
>
>
> It could be any of the following
> Spark plugs
> Air filter
> Fuel injector.
>
> The problem is now intermittent. (Off & on) > I am going to go with a
> fuel injector for now. > If Nissan fuel injectors go bad often. Would
it
> pay just to get > those at the auto store instead of the Nissan dealer?
>
> My problem is convincing my mechanic to buy those parts. He wants to>
> get designer parts.
> Greg Rozelle
The reason why you won't have a vibration problem at higher engine speeds
is
the flywheel effect. With the engine turning a couple thousand RPMs the
weight of the rotating mass means it's virtually impossible to the motor
to
exhibit any momentary slowing down or speeding up - the "inertia" of all
that rotating steel is too much to allow you to notice any slow-down
taking
in such a short taime frame. Then your engine will seem to "run smoothly"
at
highway speeds (or even maybe at 40 MPH) but will be noticably rough at an
idle.
It's the easiest thing in the world to dump a can of injector clearer into
your gas tank and it only costs $5 to $7 for the best cleaners. I've been
using "Sea Foam" injector cleaner lately which was highly recommended
around
here, and it seems to work okay & costs $5 per can. Be sure to put a can
of
that in the tank when the tank is near empty - and then fill your tank
with
gas so it can mix with the cleaner. DON'T put a whole can in unless you
are
gonna put a lot of gas in on top of the cleaner.
Around here we usually need to special order Nissan parts like injectors
from the largest dealer who is also a big representative for Nissan. But
there are now auto parts dealers online who may give you a better price.
Injectors should be quite common - but a lot of manufacturers are trying
to
get rich by selling high priced parts.
It seems possible your car mechanic may be trying to "rook" you. He ought
to
be able to read the computer error code (I'd guess) that almost assuredly
IS
an available diagnostic aid for your vehicle. That was how I knew my 97
p.u.
truck had an injector problem & the error code even said it was with the
#4
cylinder injector.
Later I bought a neat little computer diagnostic tool that's even BETTER
than trying to "read" the fla****ng Check-Engine light as it puts out the
error code. This diagnosis tool is the "Scan Tool" (or ScanTool) and is
available from the "ScanTool.net" web site. This gizmo's input connects to
your vehicle's computer plug-in socket and the other side will plug into a
****t (serial ****t) on your computer or laptop. With this ScanTool little
circuit board and a cable you also get the computer program you need to
READ
those errors. This is absolutely great!!!!! there are a couple different
models for vaious manufacturers, and mine (most foreign cars) is the OBD-2
type. This stands for "On Board Diagnostices vers. 2".
***BAD MANIFOLD AIR FLOW METER***
I'd forgot about this - but 3 years ago a problem developed that my Nissan
truck Manifold Air Flow Meter went bad. This made my 97 p.u run very
rough.
I was NOT able to *read* what that problem was by reading the fla****ng
Check
Engine light as is usually possible. But when I plugged-in the ScanTool
and
did that test with a computer it told the M.A.F. meter was BAD. (This was
a
bummer!!) I finally got a replacement MAF which had to come from a Nissan
dealer = costly. I'd looked at numerous used parts dealers online but
could
not find an exact replacement model MAF meter to replace mine. In the end
I
had to pay about $432 plus tax for a new one at the authorized Nissan
dealer.
HINT: you *can't* (always) simply replace the plug-in electronic module
****tion of the MAF Meter and expect the engine to run right. Each
electronic
module (less than the size of a pack of Luck Strike) is specifically
adjusted for the airflow charactoristics of the "throat" of the precisely
machined aluminum flow meter body.
By taking my old electronic module apart, I found that water had entered
it
and there was corrosion and "gook" on the circuit board. When installing
the
new unit a bunch of silicone bathtub caulk was applied on it to keep out
any
water.
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