Try using a "Top Tier" gasoline like Shell, Chevron or Texaco (and some
others) which has injector cleaner in it.
"DunnoWho" <corolla4dx@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:F_KTi.268218$ax1.162605@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> "Greg Rozelle" <invaild@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:LtbOi.4616$oA2.1010@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> On Sun, 07 Oct 2007 19:58:36 GMT, "DunnoWho"
>> <corolla4dx@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>>
>>>You might have fuel injectors that are getting plugged. It is really
>>>CHEAP
>>>to put some injector cleaner into your gas tank. You can even buy it at
>>>Wall;yu-Mart for maybe a buck. I had one injector changed on a 97 P.U.
>>>2.4
>>>liter and it made a Big Difference. The mechanic had said my problem
>>>*wasn't* that #4 injector - but the check engine alarm said #4 cylinder
>>>was
>>>misfiring. The mechanic/technician stated that because he could NOT
hear
>>>the
>>>injector making any noise he felt "sure" that wasn't my problem - - -
>>>Wrong.
>>>This truck had far better power and smoothness after that injector got
>>>changed. That mechanic told me the Nissan fuel injectors are well known
>>>as
>>>being prone to getting plugged up.
>>>
>>>Then we were using some bad "grocery store" cheap gas for a while and
>>>BOTH
>>>my truck and wife's car started running rough as a cob. I began using
>>>some
>>>injector cleaner and both our vehicles started running okay after that.
>>>Probably the best injector cleaner I've used was some I believe was
from
>>>an
>>>anti-freeze company like maybe (?) Prestone I bought in a Pep Boys. It
>>>was
>>>in a tall silver or gray plastic bottle and it probably cost more than
>>>most
>>>clearers. It worked great! The ac***ulated carbon that then got burned
>>>out
>>>of the truck combustion chambers caused that truck to overheat quite a
>>>bit
>>>for the first several miles after the injector cleaner was poured in!
>>>IMPRESSIVE!
>>>
>>>Another problem this '97 XE pickup (4 cylinder) has had is the original
>>>distributer cap gets dirty (why????) INSIDE and it can cause the engine
>>>to
>>>be hard to start - especially in wet weather. ROUGH running and hard
>>>starting also can be caused when the high tension wires to the spark
>>>plugs
>>>get dirty. I once met an electrical engineer who told me about that. He
>>>would take a rag and carefully clean off his high voltage wires to the
>>>spark
>>>plugs. With a dirty distributer or spark plug wires, the dirt will
>>>attract
>>>moisture and that allows the spark plug voltege & current to leak off
>>>("short circuit") though the 'dirt' to the vehicle ground = chassis.
What
>>>works REAL nice to heal your electrical leakage probelm (short circuit
of
>>>high voltage to ground) is to buy a can of silicone spray & coat the
plug
>>>wires & distributer with that stuff. After the silicone gets
soaked-into
>>>the
>>>plug wires, the wires tend to repel water a lot better, - - - a can of
>>>silicone spray is cheap insurance.
>>>
>>>"Greg Rozelle" <invaild@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>>>news:fUpNi.4254$oA2.1319@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>> 1993 Nissan Altima GXE
>>>>
>>>> Car rough idle problem need help.
>>>>
>>>> I know I asked this before. I am going to be a little bit more
>>>> detailed.
>>>>
>>>> When in park, neutral it shakes
>>>> When in reverse it shakes worse.
>>>> When in drive it shakes under 30 mph.
>>>> When going above 30 it shakes a lot less or does not shake at all.
>>>> Shakes at stops.
>>>>
>>>> From Reading
>>>> Spark plugs & wires seem to be the most cause even if they look new.
>>>> Wouldn't a compression test tell if it is bad spark plugs?
>>>>
>>>> Next is a fuel filter. Which I am tempted to try.
>>>>
>>>> The other is a fuel injector.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Greg Rozelle
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>> It should not be the distributor or bad gas or fuel filter. I have
>> eliminated those problems.
>>
>> distributor was replaced last year.
>>
>>
>> It could be any of the following
>> Spark plugs
>> Air filter
>> Fuel injector.
>>
>> The problem is now intermittent. (Off & on) > I am going to go with a
>> fuel injector for now. > If Nissan fuel injectors go bad often. Would
>> it pay just to get > those at the auto store instead of the Nissan
>> dealer? > My problem is convincing my mechanic to buy those parts. He
>> wants to> get designer parts.
>> Greg Rozelle
>
> The reason why you won't have a vibration problem at higher engine
speeds
> is the flywheel effect. With the engine turning a couple thousand RPMs
the
> weight of the rotating mass means it's virtually impossible to the motor
> to exhibit any momentary slowing down or speeding up - the "inertia" of
> all that rotating steel is too much to allow you to notice any slow-down
> taking in such a short taime frame. Then your engine will seem to "run
> smoothly" at highway speeds (or even maybe at 40 MPH) but will be
> noticably rough at an idle.
>
> It's the easiest thing in the world to dump a can of injector clearer
into
> your gas tank and it only costs $5 to $7 for the best cleaners. I've
been
> using "Sea Foam" injector cleaner lately which was highly recommended
> around here, and it seems to work okay & costs $5 per can. Be sure to
put
> a can of that in the tank when the tank is near empty - and then fill
your
> tank with gas so it can mix with the cleaner. DON'T put a whole can in
> unless you are gonna put a lot of gas in on top of the cleaner.
>
> Around here we usually need to special order Nissan parts like injectors
> from the largest dealer who is also a big representative for Nissan. But
> there are now auto parts dealers online who may give you a better price.
> Injectors should be quite common - but a lot of manufacturers are trying
> to get rich by selling high priced parts.
>
> It seems possible your car mechanic may be trying to "rook" you. He
ought
> to be able to read the computer error code (I'd guess) that almost
> assuredly IS an available diagnostic aid for your vehicle. That was how
I
> knew my 97 p.u. truck had an injector problem & the error code even said
> it was with the #4 cylinder injector.
>
> Later I bought a neat little computer diagnostic tool that's even BETTER
> than trying to "read" the fla****ng Check-Engine light as it puts out the
> error code. This diagnosis tool is the "Scan Tool" (or ScanTool) and is
> available from the "ScanTool.net" web site. This gizmo's input connects
to
> your vehicle's computer plug-in socket and the other side will plug into
a
> ****t (serial ****t) on your computer or laptop. With this ScanTool little
> circuit board and a cable you also get the computer program you need to
> READ those errors. This is absolutely great!!!!! there are a couple
> different models for vaious manufacturers, and mine (most foreign cars)
is
> the OBD-2 type. This stands for "On Board Diagnostices vers. 2".
>
> ***BAD MANIFOLD AIR FLOW METER***
> I'd forgot about this - but 3 years ago a problem developed that my
Nissan
> truck Manifold Air Flow Meter went bad. This made my 97 p.u run very
> rough. I was NOT able to *read* what that problem was by reading the
> fla****ng Check Engine light as is usually possible. But when I
plugged-in
> the ScanTool and did that test with a computer it told the M.A.F. meter
> was BAD. (This was a bummer!!) I finally got a replacement MAF which had
> to come from a Nissan dealer = costly. I'd looked at numerous used
parts
> dealers online but could not find an exact replacement model MAF meter
to
> replace mine. In the end I had to pay about $432 plus tax for a new one
at
> the authorized Nissan dealer.
> HINT: you *can't* (always) simply replace the plug-in electronic
module
> ****tion of the MAF Meter and expect the engine to run right. Each
> electronic module (less than the size of a pack of Luck Strike) is
> specifically adjusted for the airflow charactoristics of the "throat" of
> the precisely machined aluminum flow meter body.
>
> By taking my old electronic module apart, I found that water had entered
> it and there was corrosion and "gook" on the circuit board. When
> installing the new unit a bunch of silicone bathtub caulk was applied on
> it to keep out any water.
>
>
>
>
>
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