common_ sense@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
> codifus <codifus@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
>
>>On Oct 23, 10:06 pm, common_ se...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
>>
>>>No One <no...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>>>
>>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>>>codifus <codi...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>>>
>>>>>>On Oct 15, 8:55 pm, common_ se...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>codifus <codi...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>On Oct 9, 3:03 pm, Mike M <mi...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>I'm the original owner of a Maxima 2000 GXE with about 68,000
>>>>>>>>>miles. I'm seeking advice on how I should go about service.
>>>>>>>>>I've had no work done besides a recent radiator flush, new
>>>>>>>>>rear brakes, manual tranny fluid replacement at 36k, all
>>>>>>>>>ignition coils replaced at 32k (under warranty).
>>>
>>>>>>>>>Stills runs fine. But it occasionally misses when I first
>>>>>>>>>start (then runs fine a few seconds later) and sometime she
>>>>>>>>>hesitates when I punch it. It is starting to "rumble" a bit
>>>>>>>>>so I'm guessing I have an exhaust leak that needs addressing.
>>>
>>>>>>>>>Would a tuneup accomplish anything? Any other service items?
>>>>>>>>> Spark plugs don't need to be replaced, right?
>>>
>>>>>>>>>In the back of my mind is that my Maxima was flooded in the
>>>>>>>>>summer of 2006. Several inches of standing water on the
>>>>>>>>>floor. I shop-vacced every day for about 15 days before I
>>>>>>>>>stopped pulling up water. The mechanic replaced a
>>>>>>>>>water-logged idler pulley, but otherwise he said no other
>>>>>>>>>issues and that the engine is sealed. 16-months later, there
>>>>>>>>>is no interior smell and no problems besides what I described
>>>>>>>>>above.
>>>
>>>>>>>>>Also my interior fan sounds like a Harley. I suppose it is
>>>>>>>>>not easy to access the interior fan?
>>>
>>>>>>>>>Thanks,
>>>>>>>>>Mike
>>>
>>>>>>>>The car has 100,000 mile spark plugs, so they still have 30K
>>>>>>>>miles of life left in them. I would suggest cleaning your
>>>>>>>>throttle body. Carbon deposits stuff up the intake system and
>>>>>>>>tend to make low rpm drivability less smooth.
>>>
>>>>>>>>CD
>>>
>>>>>>>Have the entire fuel intake/injector system cleaned, about 200
>>>>>>>dollars at a dealer. They have the correct solvents and
>>>>>>>procedures so as not to damage the MAF.
>>>
>>>>>>Yeah, like electrical parts cleaner from Radio Shack. I've cleaned
>>>>>>MAFs with that multiple times. No issues. That, and intake
>>>>>>throttle body cleaner "safe for fuel injected engines" available
>>>>>>at any auto parts store such as Pep boys, Autozone, etc. Those 2
>>>>>>will do the trick for DIYers and save you a bundle.
>>>
>>>>>>CD
>>>
>>>>>you are foolish, and very luck then.
>>>
>>>>Maybe just not incompetent like you are.
>>>
>>>>Do you hide for weeks and then come back to grace us with your
>>>>ignorance and spew more stupidity? It was nice while you were gone.
>>>>Consider it again....soon.
>>>
>>>get over being fired by the Nissan dealer,,
>>>
>>>he did the rest of us a true service.
>>
>>I'm sorry, Mr. common sense, but the "rest of us" have reason not to
>>go running to the dealer****p just to have our wind****eld washer fluid
>>changed.
>>Do you wish you owned a GM vehicle with Onstar, so you could push the
>>blue button to ask "what does that red light on the dash mean, the one
>>with the person sitting and it looks like a belt strapped to him? Is
>>my car going to blow up?"
>>
>>We've all had horror stories from our stealer****p, like:
>>
>>Paying $350 for an emissions repair only to later find out that it was
>>supposed to be free, covered by warranty. The dealer****p denied it all
>>the way untill their hand was forced. To make matters worse they
>>accidentally dented my rear bumper but denied it completely because I
>>only noticed after I left the dealer****p.
>>
>>Just recently, a friend of mine took his Altima to get the check
>>engine light diagnosed . . .at the dealer****p. They came back with a
>>quote of $1000 for the repair. I said nonsense. I advised him to take
>>the car to autozone and have them read the code. I know form
>>experience that the vast majority of check engine codes are minor
>>emissions or engine related issues. Guess what? The code was a faulty
>>crank sensor. The dealer****p somehow managed to blow that up to $1000.
>>Please. Puh-lease.
>>
>>CD
>>
>
> First,,,learn how to spell "from",,or get a spelling checker,,
Mr. Sense, get some. . . . . .sense!
>
> second - as usual, all you post is "your opinion", that the dealer was
> ripping anyone off, and that somehow "shade tree" mechanics are all
> gods angels - sent to save us from being ripped off.
Actually, the dealler ripped me off. I called Nissan cor****ate, faxed
them the receipt, they verified that the job should have been free.
>
> Your "suppose to be free" emissions complaint is just your opinion,
> and a dented bumper ???- what next, are you going to blame Nissan for
> global warming,,,??
>
Umm, OK. I'm just shwoing how the dealer will try to sneak anything by.
> a defective crank sensor could well be very expensive to replace -
> depending on where in the engine it is located. So how much did your
> "friend" spend to get it fixed?
He didn't get his $50 back from the Nissan dealer, but he spent $200.00
on 2 sensors, the crankshaft position and reference sensor and
labor---$50.00 If you add it all up it comes just a wee bit less than
$1000.00
>
> Once again, my dealer hasnt ever forced me to do/fix anything, and
> though maybe a bit more expensive than using some HS drop out
> "mechanic" at the local here today gone tommorow repair shop -
> everything that was worked on, was fixed, and stayed fixed.
Look, there are good and bad dealers. I have not, my friends have not,
and many other have not, expereinced a good one. Maybe yur dealer is
good, or maybe you're too naive to see when you're really being ripped
off.
>
> Go Troll some other newsgroup.
Perhaps you should take your own advice.
CD
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