It seems like the simplest solution would be to get them to stick the
sniffer in the tail pipe and do the inspection the way they do it for
pre-96
cars. I wonder if they'll do it?
On 12/15/07 8:28 AM, in article
vwR8j.70539$RX.44718@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"JW" <jweb@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
wrote:
> Wow, to do that one, you'd have to be on the FW with a cold engine so
you
> could get up to 55mph 2 1/2 minutes after start up. I wonder if the
> engineers were pissed when they came up with this stuff? Thanks for
the
> info.
>
> "George" <not.real@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:not.real-075638.16181114122007@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> Apparently each car is different and I'm
>>> hoping someone here can point me to what they are so I can get them
>>> cleared
>>> so I can complete the state inspection. Thanks for any help. Thanks
for
>>> any
>>> help.
>>
>> Your drive pattern should follow guidelines in the 1996 shop manual
>> pages EC 47 - EC 50
>>
>> If you have not yet acquired a manual anywhere, the following may be of
>> interest to you. I know I found it interesting, especially the generic
>> drive cycle advice at the end.
>>
>> In New York you should take the emissions test anyway so you get a
valid
>> sticker, let it test fail, and you get an automatic extension. During
>> that 10 day extension period you will certainly accomplish the System
>> Readiness tests and avoid tickets for having an expired inspection. I
>> hope automatic extensions for a failed test are common everywhere and
>> hopefully exist where you live.
>>
>> The following is from the New York City emissions inspection pamphlet
>> titled "What do You Mean, My Car's Not Ready?" Hopefully the EPA parts
>> will be applicable anywhere:
>>
>> "Vehicles perform up to 11 system tests, depending on year, make
>> and model of the vehicle. These tests are commonly referred to as
>> readiness monitors.
>>
>> "HOW MANY MONITORS HAVE TO BE READY?
>> The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guidelines allow up to two
>> monitors to be in a "not ready" state for model year 1996 through 2000
>> vehicles and one monitor "not ready" for 2001 and newer model year
>> vehicles.
>>
>> "WHAT CAUSES A "NOT-READY" RE****T?
>> Causes of a "not ready" re****t:
>> ? Recent vehicle repairs in which diagnostic trouble codes have been
>> cleared with a OBDII scan tool; or,
>> ? if the battery had been recently disconnected or replaced; or,
>> ? if the vehicle's computer requires a software update; or,
>> ? a pending problem has not yet illuminated the "check engine" light.
>>
>> "Negotiate with the inspection station to have a technician perform the
>> drive cycles according to manufacturer specific guidelines for a fee
you
>> will pay. If you take the vehicle from the inspection facility to
>> perform the drive cycle yourself, the inspection station operator can
>> charge you an emission re-inspection fee, up to the maximum fee allowed
>> for an original emission inspection.
>>
>> "GENERIC DRIVE CYCLE
>> The purpose of the OBDII drive cycle is to run your vehicle's onboard
>> diagnostics. This, in turn, allows monitors to operate and detect
>> potential malfunctions of your vehicle's emission system. The correct
>> drive cycle for your vehicle can vary greatly, depending on the vehicle
>> model and the monitors that need to be reset. When a specific drive
>> cycle is not known, or drive cycle information is not available from an
>> owner's manual, the generic cycle described below may assist with
>> resetting your vehicle's monitors. However, this generic cycle may not
>> work for all vehicles.
>>
>> 1. The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature
>> below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within
>> 11 degrees of each other).
>> 2. The ignition key must not be left on prior to the cold start -
>> otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
>> 3. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and
>> one-half minutes, with the air conditioning (A/C) and rear defrost
>> turned on, if equipped.
>> 4. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph under
>> moderate, constant acceleration. Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for
>> three minutes.
>> 5. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the
>> clutch for manual transmissions).
>> 6. Accelerate again back to 55 to 60 mph.
>> 7. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. Decelerate
>> (coast down) to a stop without braking."
>>
>> --
>> Oil is always 15 years from running out, the oceans are always 10 years
>> away
>> from rising 10 feet, and the internet always has only 3 years left
before
>> it
>> runs out of capacity. Color me skeptical.
>
>
|
