I just replaced the rubber stopper on my 200sx clutch (130k miles). You
should be able to get
your head on the floor and look up at the clutch pedal assembly with a
flashlight. The
rubber stopper presses on the small tab/button of the clutch switch. If
it's missing you'll
see a metal circle (where the stopper goes in) move to the switch as you
depress the pedal.
(The switch is fixed/does not move). In a pinch, press the clutch switch
button while
someone starts the car (Must be in neutral, or severe injury can result!)
However, if you have 12 volts to your starter when you try to start, it
sounds like a bad
starter assembly
"Trebl" <trebl@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:2GJXi.3031$b%1.2611@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Is there a way to safely bypass or jumper the safety switch (clutch
> lockout switch) to test it?
>
> Thanks again
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:Xns99DF5534FB539jyanikkuanet@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> "Larry" <decarco1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in
>> news:lwEXi.1481$m44.477@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>>> Sorry for the confusion...I should have been clearer. The engine
>>> doesn't crank at all. I tested the voltage at the battery posts as
>>> well as the connection on the starter. I also tested the voltage at
>>> the connector for the solenoid. I did clean both posts and replaced
>>> the positive clamp as the old one did have a break in it. All lights,
>>> power, accessories do power on. Thanks again for the assistance
>>>
>>>
>>> "John Henderson" <jhenRemoveThis@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>>> news:5p70kdFpo9mlU1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>> Larry wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I need your expertise. The car had been running fine, but now
>>>>> it will not start turning the key, but will start with a push
>>>>> and popping the clutch. Thought it most likely was the
>>>>> starter, so I pulled it and had it tested.
>>>>> Of course it and the solenoid tested out just fine. Back in
>>>>> it went.
>>>>>
>>>>> There is correct voltage to the starter, the solenoid and the
>>>>> battery voltage is fine. Plugs, wires and distributor cap are
>>>>> also okay. I didn't test the starter relay (wasn't quite sure
>>>>> how). I realize the trouble can't be diagnosed on-line, but
>>>>> I'm open to suggestions as to what to try/test next. I've got
>>>>> a Chilton manual for it and am technically inclined to a
>>>>> point, but as I've gotten older, the point has gotten duller.
>>>>> Thanks in advance for the suggestions and input.
>>>>
>>>> You say that the battery voltage is fine, but how and where are
>>>> you measuring it?
>>>>
>>>> Are you measuring it under cranking load? Are you measuring it
>>>> at the battery posts, or further downstream towards the starter
>>>> motor?
>>>>
>>>> Are the battery cables tightly attached to clean battery posts?
>>>> If there's a bad connection between battery and starter, then
>>>> the voltage at the battery will not be dropping realistically
>>>> while cranking.
>>>>
>>>> If you're measuring resting (unloaded) battery voltage, this
>>>> gives you very little information about the condition of the
>>>> battery.
>>>>
>>>> Does the starter crank the engine? If so, is it cranking more
>>>> slowly than would be expected from a good battery?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> maybe your have a bad clutch lockout switch,that prevents cranking when
>> the
>> clutch is not pressed in.
>> you should be able to measure 12V at the solenoid terminal when you try
>> to
>> crank the motor.
>> you should be able to jumper 12V to that terminal and crank your motor.
>>
>> If you have 12V at the solenoid terminal and the starter still does not
>> crank,then there's a solenoid/starter problem. Maybe a bad ground side
>> wire.
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
>
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