Yep, mine was $55 at Auto Zone.
This is why I like regular crank windows better.
Unfortunately you can't get them on most newer (post-1990) cars.
On Aug 14, 10:07 pm, Reed <re...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> njot wrote:
> > Luckily this is car is also a 94 so it would be the same as what you
> > just did.
> > The motor did not stop working, it is just slow and tends to stall
> > going up and down. I thought the track where the tape drive slides
> > through just needed lubrication, but the motor still gets slow and
> > stalls sometimes. Then when it sits for a minute, it starts working
> > again, but only rolls the window up or down part way.
>
> > So basically the entire tape drive track needs to be disconnected from
> > the door?
> > What is weird is that it looks like the back end of the rivets face
> > out. These aren't rivet heads with a dimple in them, which is what
> > I'm used to seeing. About a 1/8" piece of the rivet sticks out. I
> > guess this is what I have to punch (or hit with the head of a hammer?)
> > before drilling it out?
>
> > snip
>
> I had exactly the same symptoms re stalling. My 94
> GMC Jimmy also did this a year ago, same driver's
> door that gets most used (Same motor except
> gear-type regulator)
>
> You are correct about the large rivets. You need
> to punch out the center pin ( large nail might
> help if no punch) , then drill it. The 1/4" rivets
> are different in that respect from the 3/16"
>
> I believe the motors are made to bind up after 10
> years or so to keep NAPA, Checker, etc in
> business. I paid $54 for new, not reman, at
> Carquest for mine.
>
> --Reed- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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