there is one other consideration - this happened to me on a 356, but it
might also be possible on a 911 - on the 356A series there is no bu****ng
for
the cross member on which the throwout bearing rides - this is a rod that
is
rotated by a lever - you press on teh clutch, a wire pulls the lever
rotating the rod and inside the bell housing a pair of levers holding the
throwout bearing press on the clutch. Anyway, on my car, the holes
through
which the rod p***** and which form the bearing for the rod enlongated
significantly (on the side with the cable much more than on the other
side) - this caused problems in clutch adjustment, but more nefariously it
also caused the clutch itself to fail in about 6 months with a broken
pressure spring - after maybe a dozen clutches I finally figured it out.
"Ed Beroset" <beroset@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:cvLqh.11569$yx6.9164@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> bstsurf@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
>> I am at the end of the adjusting threads and clutch still engages about
>> 1-2 inched from end of play- in other words- far from floorboards. I
>> have no more threads left at tranny end, do I just need a new cable or
>> can I adjust at pedal end? I read it is just a clevis but are there
>> not threads on that end too? Thanks!!
>
> One thing that happens is that the cable stretches, especially if it's
the
> original 20-year-old cable. I'd recommend replacing it before it breaks
> and then setting the adjustments back to a normal range.
>
> To (finally!) answer your question, yes, the pedal end is threaded and
it
> can be adjusted, but the effective adjustment range is small. ****sche
says
> that you should have 17 to 22mm of threaded cable screwed into the
cable.
>
> Chances are that the real problem here is cable stretch and not
> adjustments.
>
> Ed
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
|
