Tighten the sucker down - and dont worry. You did a great job going in so
slowly. It has to be sealed there -
"bryan" <bryanle****e@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:1182095837.563520.310760@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> thanks for the suggestions - good call w/ the penetrating oil - i put
> a little on, wait 20 min, then carefully worked the sensor free - it
> came loose quite readily, and no apparent damage to the manifold. i
> didn't need a breaker bar (the wrench was about 22 cm long). have one
> question at the end of my write-up :
>
> the old sensor threads look grubby, so i was concerned about the
> female threads in the manifold being damaged. i dried the penetrating
> oil from the manifold, put anti-sieze on the sensor, and applied it
> finger-tight, which happened in about 2-3 turns. it seemed to be
> sitting in the threads ok, but the sensor clearly was not secured all
> the way. So i carefully worked the sensor into the threads by going
> back/forth about 1/8 turn each time until, now, the washer is nearly
> pinched tight between the manifold and the sensor after more than 5
> turns. each time, it would get tight, then after working it, i could
> get it further in. i noticed something like a gouge in the manifold
> surface outside of where the threads are during this process, but
> does'nt seem to be increasing in size as if stress cuased a split.
> was probably there before. i drove around a while and things are
> stable.
>
> if i tighten the sensor all the way down, will this increase the risk
> of the manifold splitting over time? i also figure that the best
> ways to see the result of a new sensor is in MPG and emissions -
> right? idle RPM, performance seem the same as before.
>
> -bryan
>
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