St John, see 2 large pieces of info pasted below from my archives (scroll
down). Good luck. I don't watch this list much, but saw your query &
hope
it helps.
Regards
Simon
----- Original Message -----
From: <928uk@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
To: "928uk - For discussions related to owning or liking ****sche 928 V8's"
<928uk@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: [928uk] [Fwd: 928.org.uk: 928 S4 earthing]
>
>
>
> This is an enquiry e-mail via http://www.928.org.uk/
from:
> St.John Walker
> Hi,
>
> I've tried to log a query on your technical section, but I just can't
work
> out how to do that on the webpage.
>
> Problem is the speedo works occasionally, tacho should read 800rpm at
idle
> but reads 200rpm, cruise control is dead (I've changed the sender in the
> transaxle to no avail).
> ****che Owners' Club (chap called Adrian) suggested that the speedo and
> tacho errors could be down to bad earth, any ideas where this earth
might
> be?
>
> Cheers,
> St.John
>
> _______________________________________________
> nntp://alt.autos.****sche928
> 928uk mailing list
> http://www.928.org.uk/mailman/listinfo/928uk
> http://www.928.org.uk
1st batch of info
In a message dated 27/06/2006 17:13:46 GMT Daylight Time,
hopwood@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
Unfortunately I don't know where most of these grounding points are
located - if anyone could help me locate them I'd be grateful.
Hi Joelthis might help; Cheers Tim
Subj:
RE: Earth points
Date:
29/10/01 20:30:51 GMT Standard Time
From: Jon.Holdsworth@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(Holdsworth, Jon)
Sender: owner-928uk@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Richard@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
('Richard Horsley'),
adrian928@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(Adrian 007), 928uk@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
below Wally Plumley's (Rennlist and 928 specialists) advice on
earth points etc. in repsonse to a specific query.
Re all the other earth points on the 928 anywhere there is a brown wire
bolted to the body - take it apart and clean it - I use copper grease when
reassembling others prefer petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion.
I am still hunting them all down.
Regards and good luck
Jon
Black SE
..
At 11:08 PM 4/27/01, mjcleland@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
>Today while driving the radio flickered on and off, then loud static over
>the speakers. Radio died and I checked the voltmeter, -10.
>
>Other electric stuff was working, fan, windows, etc. When I turned the
>fan down, the radio display would show the clock, turn up the fan, radio
>went dead again. (antenna goes up when radio alive, down when dead)
>
>When I got home and turned the car off, I tried to restart, but no. The
>warning indicator begins to flash and nothing happens at the key switch.
>The voltmeter wiggles when I am turning the key to the on position, no
>change when I get to the start position.
In a situation like this, you have two choices:
Catch up on all the preventative maintenance.
Test, find the specific problem, and patch it.
Annual maintenance:
1) Open the hatch and remove the tool panel. Remove the carpet and spare
tire cover. Remove the spare, tools, etc. Open the battery box.
2) Disconnect the ground cable from the chassis. Remove the negative
battery terminal. Remove the positive battery terminal. Remove the
battery.
Use extreme caution to avoid getting battery acid or residue from the top
of the battery or cables in your eyes. Goggles are recommended. If the
battery brushes against your clothes, you can end up with holes.
3) Clean the battery terminals until they are bright and ****ny. Dull gray
won't do. If it is possible to check the fluid level in the battery, do
so.
Fill to the rings. Wash the battery. Put it on a charger if possible.
4) Clean the battery box, removing all corrosion. Wash the battery box.
After it dries, touch up the finish as required.
5) Clean the battery cable terminals (all three) until the connection area
is clean and ****ny. Dull gray won't do. Clean the connection area on the
chassis.
6) Clean the speedometer/odometer drive electrical connector in the right
forward corner of the spare tire well (pre-'90 models).
7) Raise the hood (bonnet). Remove the protective cap from the jump start
terminal and pull the protective plastic cover from the terminal. If you
are missing the cover or the cap, replace them - they are critical items.
If there is no cover, water will enter the connector and corrode the
connectors and wires, causing serious electrical problems.
8) If the connections are clean and tight, replace the cover and cap. If
the connections show any corrosion or looseness, disassemble, clean and
reassemble.
9) Jack the right front of the car so that you can SAFELY work underneath.
10) Remove the ground cable that runs from the right side of the engine to
the chassis. Clean both ends of the cable, and check for corrosion in the
cable. Clean the connection points, and replace the cable.
11) Check the heavy cable connection on the starter solenoid for looseness
or corrosion.
12) Check the moderately heavy wires on the same connection for corrosion
and breaks inside the insulation. These carry the charging current from
the
alternator.
13) Check the small yellow wire connection for corrosion and tightness.
This wire triggers the starter solenoid.
14) Lower the car. Fold back the carpet and open the central power panel
cover.
15) Check the main power connections at the top of the panel for tightness
and corrosion.
16) Check the ground connections above the panel for tightness and
corrosion.
17) If you are having electrical problems, remove each fuse and reinsert
three times. Check the fuses for the proper value, and examine them
visually for damage or corrosion. Test them is desired. Later cars have a
fuse tester built into one of the relays.
18) If you feel that it is necessary, remove and reinsert each relay. This
won't be easy, as they fit very tightly in some cases. ****sche sells a
relay removal tool, but I am not impressed. It is basically a pair of
pliers with square jaws, and will pull the relay apart. One tool that
works
well is a spark plug boot removal tool. It is a thin but strong sheet
metal
tool shaped like a "J" with the top 1/8" bent over at a right angle. You
can put this angle under the bottom edge of the relay and lift it out - IF
the battery is disconnected!
19) Close the panel and replace the carpet.
20) Replace the battery. Install the positive cable. Install the negative
cable. Put a drop of oil on each nut. Connect the chassis end of the
ground
(negative) cable. Lubricate the battery box latch and close the box.
21) Lubricate the wiper drive shaft and hatch latch mechanism.
22) Clean the spare tire, jack and tools. Put a couple of large heavy
plastic garbage bags in the spare tire well for emergencies, along with a
tube of hand cleaner and some paper towels. Install the cover and carpet.
23) Lubricate the jack, and put it inside the tool panel. Clean and
lubricate the tools. Reinstall the tool and tool panel.
24) Reset the clock and radio presets.
A couple of hours of quality time with your 928 once a year can forestall
many problems.
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
< I>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
928uk mailing list
928uk@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
batch of info
Think yourself lucky mine did the same at the ****sche dealer
JCT600 were it was original sold from, I was even getting some parts
for it, was begining to think it wanted to stay there and didnt like
me. A genuine ****sche battery cured it,isnt that bad 80 ish if
recall ?
later 928 are heavy on batteries accept that mine on it third in two
year, but is a weekend car. Been better since I used a trickle
charger (with the earth strap off for the expensive electronics
benefit -id have to think what the CS/SE control unit cost?)
As has been said check the obvious wingnut strap near the spare (use
some emery or wet and dry to get a clean contact)
The earth strap from the engine to body near the sump
Another famous one its even the first part of ****sches diags for
fuel and ignition problems. This one is very likely
Mark A
--- In 928GB@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"Gary" <gary@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> Had a pretty embarrasing experience today at my local Esso! I had
just
> stopped off for some petrol, and then checked my tyre pressures,
all was
> well. I jumped back in the '28 and hey presto, nothing. Dead.
Tried again,
> and this time, a splutter and a cough, and nothing. Battery! By
this time
> the entire city of Lincoln had come to see the poorly ****sche, so
my brother
> and I pushed it out of harms way and cried. Luckily, next to the
Esso is a
> Car place (MotoSave) and I managed to persuade a couple of
mechanics to give
> me a push, and whatdoyouknow, she fired up first time.... I
thanked them and
> very quickly departed....
>
> Any idea what could cause this? Could it be that I never do much
more than 8
> miles a day?
> Any thoughts? If not about the problem, sympathy for me would be
greatfully
> received now I can no longer show my face at the local Esso
service station!
> GARY
> 928SE(silver & probably in need of a new battery)
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