I wonder if disconnecting the egr valve connector would do anything for my
2.3l ford ranger? Worth a try!
laughingatDesertBob@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
> to those of you who own and drive one of these great GM V-6 engines,
> here's a few free power/tuning/maintenance tips:
>
> 1. unplug the EGR valve connectcor, located just behind the throttle
> body near the firewall- your 3.4 DOHC will WAKE UP and make about
> 20-30 more HP at part throttle driving conditions- it will literally
> glide along on level roads at 70 mph with the EGR disconnected- and
> will not require as much throttle input to pull from a dead stop or
> uphills- most "low power" complaints on the DOHC can be totally
> eliminated by simply unplugging the EGR valve- it will throw a code
> and turn on your "check engine light"- but will not harm the car in
> any way- after removing the EGR plug, run premium fuel for best
> performance and to eliminate any ping/spark knock. The DOHC is a
> relatively high compression engine 9.6:1, and really should have
> premium fuel.
>
> 2. the DOHC uses both a timing belt on the overhead cams, and a
> standard timing chain behind the front cover- with age, the timing
> chain will stretch about 4 to 6 crank degrees- even though the belt is
> NEW and replaced. Don't simply mark the cams and put a new belt on,
> where the old one was. That will put the cams BEHIND (retarded) in
> timing, due to the timing chain stretch. (you only changed the belt,
> not the chain). Make sure you lock the cams, unbolt the timing
> sprockets (use a stout 6-point impact socket and breaker bar, to get
> the cam cog bolts loose)- and retime the cams to the crank. When you
> do this, make up for the timing chain stretch, by rotating the crank
> forward to take the play out, aligning the balancer mark with arrow on
> timing cover, THEN locking the cams in place. My timing chain had
> about 4 degrees of slop, when I retimed it.
>
> 3. It's a lot easier to time these engines, with the inner fenderwell
> plastic cover and right wheel removed, and a hole cut in the inner
> fender so you can see the timing marks. This way, you won't have to
> remove all the front engine accessories and belt, to see the marks-
> and you can look at the marks "straight on", instead of at an oblique
> angle from the top. You can cut the sight hole in the inner fender
> with a hole saw, or sawzall.
>
> 4. Use BOSCH 4-tip platinum plugs- I have put 55,000 miles on a set of
> these plugs, and I could have left them in and run it another 50,000-
> but changed them for good measure. They really work- require no
> gapping- and they don't foul. They are pricey, $5-7 per plug, but
> well worth it in maintenance time saved.
>
> 5. Use synthetic oil- I use Amsoil 10-30 or 10-40, this will extend
> your oil change intervals to 25,000 miles, with oil filter change at
> 12,500 miles, and add oil in between for what you may use/burn off.
>
> 6. Use a K&N lifetime air filter, so far I have 55,000 miles on one of
> those filters as well.
>
> 7. Oil leaks- if you DOHC 3.4 gets up in mileage, over 150,000 miles,
> it would pay to have the top end of the engine removed and gaskets
> replaced. Replace cam carrier gaskets, cam seals, head gaskets,
> intake upper/lower gaskets, oil distribution block gasket (between
> heads in valley, like a valley cover), and also replace the oil pump
> drive plug O-ring. Under the oil pump drive plug itself, place a GM
> Chevy distributor gasket, for good measure. Some of these DOHC
> engines have oil cooler lines near the oil filter adapter (my 1995 did
> not)- replace the lines and oil filter adapter gaskets, and your DOHC
> engine will be leak-free.
>
> 8. Use synthetic oil in the automatic transmission.
--
Eugene Blanchard
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas
Home of the DIY Hot Rod Kustom website
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