Subject change: Pszemol's Camry springs

Sounds like a prior budget street rod tuner got hold of your car and
cut off parts of the springs then. A real tuner would probably used
variable rate lowering springs matched with proper struts and
polyurethane stabilizer bar bu****ngs. But it's a common "budget"
lowering practice that some of these tuner guys would do. So that
makes me wonder what other things in the suspension system were
modified.

If you didn't put the stabilizer bar links back it's like not having
the stabilizer bar in the rear (for instance on some entry level trim
there isn't one). The car should sway more in both directions
depending on the turn but that is all.

If it only swing to one side then it may be worn rubber bu****ngs in
one or more of the strut rods back there or a weak right rear spring
(equal ride height on both sides?)  I would also wonder if the two
rear springs are from the same set.

I hope the tuner didn't just use an assemblage of parts from different
cars/years. That's would be a nightmare to try to fix.




On Jul 31, 9:44=A0am, "Pszemol" <Psze...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> I had two brokent
> coil springs on the fronts. It was hard to notice because the springs
whe=
re
> missing only about 3/4 of the bottom turn. I went to the junkyard and
got
> springs from a 1996 camry with "only" 150k miles, so they are "like new"
> condition compared to my original ones with 246k miles behind them :-)
Th=
e
> springs on the rear struts were good so I left them in place. All 4
sprin=
gs
> got sanded and wire brushed, painted with rust oleum and installed with
n=
ew
> Ganriel Ultra struts. Suprisingly, original front struts, when removed
fr=
om
> vehicle had the feel of new struts - the rod was moving normally with no
> pinching or any abnormality. The strut was also fully charged with
pressu=
re
> pu****ng rod up. This is amazing considering these were original toyota
> struts which made 246k miles!!! The ones on the rear were pretty bad.
Lef=
t
> side seems to loose the nitrogen charge, the rod was traveling with
norma=
l
> resistance but pushed down did not bounce back up. The right side was
> completely dead and leaking. The rod was traveling without resistance,
so=
 I
> did not have the right strut one at all there.
>
> In the process I had a hard time taking off the sway bar links on the
rea=
r
> struts. Had to cut off the nuts from the links, somebody before me
tighte=
n
> them too much? Working without torque wrench, maybe? I hate when this
> happens... Need to replace these next time I will have a chance. For now
=
the
> link small ball joint in the rubber is beaten up pretty badly, but I
have
> put them back on the car since I wanted to finish the job that day and
di=
d
> not have the spares.
>
> Ride has improved a lot, but I am still having strange feeling of the
car
> back sways to the right when I cross the rough railroad crossing or hit
> heavy bump in the road. Not sure what is it, since the struts are new
and
> good. All of this behaviour I was blaming for the bad strut on the rear
> right wheel, but something is still bad there... Maybe the links need to
=
be
> replaced, but I would not think they would do so much to the
suspension..=
..