Re: HELP: 93 Toyota Corolla vibration problem!

On Apr 25, 10:26=A0am, jim <"sjedgingN0sp"@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> krp wrote:
>
> > =A0 =A0 The word "draggin" doesn't mean it WAS the brakes being on. It
C=
AN but
> > it can also be something else.
>
> No actually it can't be anything else. That is what you clearly do not
> understand. There is nothing else on the car (excluding the engine
cooling=

> system) that can absorb that much energy and not fail catastrophically.
A
> bearing can certainly get hot. But if a bearing is generating enough
> friction to slow the car down that much is not going to last more than a
> few miles or less. The brake rotor is the only thing down there that can
> absorb that much energy and survive for anything more than a short
period
> of time.
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 There are only 2 possibilities - either the caliper is
sti=
cking or
> something in the brake fluid circuit is preventing the fluid from
flowing
> back to the master cylinder. If whatever is getting the wheel hot were
> anything but brakes it would have been over a long time ago.
>
> > =A0 =A0 Maybe you MISS that he HAS taken it to a mechanic SEVERAL
> > TIMES.................................................
>
> Maybe you missed that he said the problem started right after he took it
> to the mechanic the first time.
>
> -jim


yup...  definitely brakes.  Dark horse would be a wheel bearing that's
not getting hot but is loose enough to cause brake drag, but quite
likely it is a straight up pure brake issue.  Either a bad caliper or
a return ****t blocked in the master cylinder.  might be pushrod length
too short but that wouldn't explain why the issue only started after
the calipers were worked on.  gunk in the MC is likely though if for
whatever reason the mechanic pushed back the pistons of the old
calipers without opening the bleeder screws first.  Or it could be
something truly weird like a busted spring inside the MC allowing the
piston to block the return ****t or something like that.

If I were the OP I would take a jack and a wheel chock along with me
for a ride, and go somewhere where there are wide, flat shoulders to
pull off.  Then once the issue starts, jack up the suspect corner.
Try to spin the wheel with the car in neutral.  If it spins hard,
crack open the bleeder screw on the caliper, let out a little fluid,
tighten, and try again.  If it spins easy now then you know it's a
hydraulic brake issue, either in the caliper or the master cylinder.
If it still spins hard look for a mechanical issue like stuck sliders
or a loose wheel bearing.

If it turns out to be a hydraulic issue I would then check the
opposite rear wheel and see if that spins any harder than the rear
wheel on the same side (assuming a diagonal split system.)  If it
does, the problem is likely related to the master cylinder.  If it
does *not,* the problem is likely the new caliper.  (although it
*might* not be, as someone correctly pointed out, if the rear brakes
are drums and not adjusted tightly.)

nate