On 29 Mar 2007 08:10:12 -0700, "Willis"
<callmewillis@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>On Mar 27, 9:22 pm, Roger M <rnddma...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>> Willis wrote:
>> > Good afternoon all,
>>
>> > Well, it's been a while since I've posted but I've run into a new
>> > problem. The B&M C6 in my 1963 Ford Galaxie is acting up.
>>
>> > Best way I can describe the problem is such (with product specs
>> > below):
>>
>> > B&M Ford C-6 Comp. Transmission - Part # 114002
>> > 2:46 first gear ratio
>> > 1:46 second gear ratio
>> > B&M Holeshot 2400 Stall Converter - Part # 40412
>>
>> > I checked the fluids in the B&M and on warm idle, in neutral, and
>> > fluid levels seem fine.
>>
>> > With the transmission warm, on takeoff the trans starts in first, and
>> > up through 2500rpm to 3000rpm, it is very reluctant to up****ft to 2nd
>> > gear. On several occasions I could get the transmission to up****ft
if
>> > I ****mmied the ****fter (floor mount ****fter) from "2" to "D" back and
>> > forth (several times).
>>
>> > On the occasions I could get the trans to ****ft into 2nd, upon
slowing
>> > down and coming to a redlight, the trans would only wait to down****ft
>> > to 1st when I was almost at a complete stop, and the ****ft came with
a
>> > heavy 'thud' and the ****ft made the car jerk slower.
>>
>> > Could this be a transmission flow problem (fixed by a flush), or am I
>> > looking at something serious?
>>
>> > I called the local transmission shop in my neighborhood and the guy
>> > very quickly guessed that I would have metal in the transmission pan
>> > (I haven't checked yet) and I'd be looking at a rebuild ($1500!!!).
>> > He also put potential blame on the fact that my car has a stall
>> > converter. He said stall converters were worthless unless you were
>> > heading to the track. Does he have a point or is he just a way-too-
>> > opinionated transmission tech?
>>
>> > Full specs (and pics) for the car are
here:http://www.cardomain.com/ride/280751/4
>>
>> > I did NOT put the B&M or stall convertor into the car (I bought it
>> > restored), so unfortunately I don't have any familiarity with the
>> > specifics of the installation. I'm kind of a newbie to the classic
>> > car world so any help/advice you could offer would be greatly
>> > appreciated.
>>
>> > Thanks,
>>
>> > Jason Willis (Baltimore)
>>
>> Check for fluid in the modulator line at the modulator if you pull the
line from the
>> modulator and it has fluid in it then it's bad. If you have no fluid
there then check
>> the modulator line for full engine vacuum at the transmission and
response. You'll
>> need a vacuum gauge to check it. If you have engine vacuum the
transmission end of the
>> line then you will need to snap the throttle to see if the vacuum gauge
responds as it
>> would if it was hooked directly to the engine. If you're unsure of what
I mean then
>> hook the vacuum gauge to an intake vacuum source a snap the thorttle
open quickly to
>> see what the gauge does when you do that. For the most part you should
get the same
>> response at the line where it goes on the modulator. The last thing I
know of too look
>> at without too much disassembly is the governor. It may be sticking and
not allowing
>> an up ****ft to occur. If you can hold it full throttle in low gear and
****ft the
>> ****fter to second gear at above about 4500 rpms and the transmission up
****ft the
>> governor is probably ok.
>>
>> Roger- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>Hi guys,
>
>Thanks for the assistance. Do I need to drain the transmission fluid
>to check the modulator or governor?
>
>Jason
You'll lose a few oz. of fluid on the modulator. You won't
lose much on removing the TS housing to get to the governor.
Point the vehicle nose down a bit and should be very little.
Use a drain pan to catch it anyway. If one of these doesn't
do it, you will ned to either get yourself a transmission
education or a pro to do it.
Lugnut
|
