thegodfather1076 wrote:
> On May 24, 1:02 am, Bryan wrote:
> > thegodfather1076 wrote:
> > > I have ran across a 440 plus the corresponding 727 tranny in the
local
> > > news paper. I am considering purchasing this combo and swapping it
> > > with the current block and tranny. I was wondering if anyone had
any
> > > advice or comments as to how much work I am looking at and what
types
> > > of modifications may have to be made to install this pair.
> >
> > In addition to what Brian said, a consideration would be the torsion
bars in
> > the frontend. If you intend to drag race it, leave the small-block
bars
in,
> > and have an alignment shop reset the ride height. If you intend to
try
> > maintaining some semblance of handling (the RB is much heavier than
the
LA
> > engine), you will definitely want to step up to (at least) the OEM
B/RB
> > torsion bars. There are aftermarket bars available that are even
stiffer.
> > Bryan
>
> What is difference between the small block and big block torsion
> bars? A friend has torsion bars from a 72 New****t with a big block,
> will those work or do I have to get them strictly for an E-body? The
> New****t bars are 56 in long and about 1in thick.
The torsion bars are divided up by the chassis and engine. The chassis
determines the length and the weight of the engine (and intended use)
determines the necessary spring rate. Torsion bars for a Slant-6 will be
softer than ones for small-block, etc. That's why I said small-block
torsion bars with a B/RB engine will work good for the drags but not so
good
for handling.
You'll find the 56" torsion bars from the New****t will be longer than you
can use. According to my ancient Direct Connection Racing Manual, B- and
E-body torsion bars are 44" long (no mention of diameter). You're in
luck,
though... there were MANY B- and E-bodies made with B/RB engines, and the
correct torsion bars shouldn't be too hard to locate.
Bryan
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