On Tue, 26 Jun 2007 07:25:48 -0700, NETRUNNER wrote:
> Ok. Thanks a lot.
>
> Regarding this manual ****ft body and 904. Lets pretend I have 904 (i am
> still not sure). I have engine 340 with stroker to 390 and some
> performance parts. It supposed to have 325 horse power. Is 904 enough
> for such a strong engine? Can it handle this kind of power?
Did you look at the article in the link? It shows the pans for both the
904 and 727. A very quick way of determining which it is.
http://www.carcraft.com/newlook/crc_act/116_0302_trans/
As far as the questions, I still suggest going to the forums on
moparts.com. There are more people with more knowledge than I (this is a
pretty slow/dead group nowdays).
A properly built 904 can handle substanially more than 325 horsepower. A
stock 904 in good condition with a good cooler would likely be
sufficient, unless you drive like an absolute madman. A tired, high-
mileage, stock 904 might not last long at all.
Unfortunately, I can't tell you where your 904 falls in that spectrum.
Since it appears to have a manual-****ft valvebody, it's possible they
upgraded other parts in the tranny (heavy duty rear sprague and/or front
drum, better friction materials, etc). It's also possible that they had
the valve-body laying around and threw it in a 200K+ mile stock 904 that
has been severely overheated a dozen times.
> And manual ****ft question?
> I am changing gears manually or rather semi-automatic. I am not taking
> away ma foot from gas pedal while changing gears. Sometimes car is like
> jumping ahead. Like no clutch wark was made and just trans ratio
> suddenly was changed. Won't it destroy my transmission? Isn't it the
> closest way to kill this part of a car?
>
> NETRUNNER
Quickest way to kill it is to let it overheat. (OK, doing a reverse-drop
at 40mph would probably be quicker.) The hard ****fts can add some stress
on parts of the transmission, as well as the u-joints and the rest of the
drivetrain, but the slow, soft ****fting like in a stock tranny creates
alot of heat as the friction plates/bands ease into gear. Soft ****fts are
not a transmission's best friend by any means. They are engineered to
****ft soft only for driver's comfort.
Assuming the transmission is in good shape, I doubt that the hard ****fts
will markedly shorten its lifespan. There are people who have run a
manual-****ft valve body on the street for years without transmission
breakage. If you have any fillings in your teeth, they may have to be
replaced frequently though, as the ****fting is probably harder on the
occupants than on the transmission.
One big warning: There are some older manual-****ft valve bodies that you
must use special care with. It's the style that doesn't exhibit engine
braking in 1st. So if your car coasts rather than slows with the engine
when you let up on the gas while in 1st gear, it applies to you. Due to
the design, you do not want to coast in 1st and then hammer the throttle.
You could easily end up with a BIG mess.
If your car does "engine-brake" (slows down dramatically with the engine
when you let up on the throttle in 1st), then you have the better design,
and the warning doesn't apply.
(Unfortunately, you can have the better designed valve body, but if your
low band is way out of adjustment, it will act the same way (no engine-
braking, and can go BOOM if hammered while coasting in 1st)).
I will once again recommend posting your question(s) on the forum at
moparts.com. You'll get replies from more than just me, and some of the
regulars there really know their stuff.
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