On Mar 3, 10:41 am, "Noddy" <m...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> "the_dawggie" <the_dawg...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>
> news:8ee25bd6-0277-44d8-9c3a-
>
> > Not that I've found unless it's inside somewhere I can't see, like
> > inside
> > the frame (Athol has a gadget for looking in there). Certainly none in
> > doors, fenders, roof, engine bay, etc.
>
> Don't worry, it'll be there.
It's not there yet.
> > Being galvanealled I don't see any reason for any panel rust unless
> > that has become so far damaged to expose the tin.
>
> The galvaneal process is similar to regular galvanising in the way it is
> applied, but unlike regular galvanising which produces a layer of zinc
over
> the surface galvaneal is a mixture of zinc and iron. The iron content is
> necessary to make the metal suitable for painting, as straight zinc is
very
> difficult to paint over and get any decent level of adheasion.
>
> Galvanealling provides good protection against rust, but like regular
> galvanising (or anything else for that matter) it's not foolproof nor
does
> it last forever. It breaks down over time (and the iron content makes it
> happen quicker than pure zinc), and the layer is usually *very* thin on
> vehicle body components (which is also necessary for a good paint
finish).
Yep, that's why it's different than galvanized witch has the large
flaky patterns.
I've got a couple of patches on the top of the tail gate where the
tonneau
cover strap has well and truely worn off small strips of paint. The
light grey
underneath is not showing any sings of going anywhere soon.
> The short answer is that while galvanealed body panels will certainly be
> more resistant to rust than regular raw steel, they're not impervious to
it
> and will certainly rust after a while of being exposed to the causes of
it.
Everything in life has it's life time.
> > For extra measure when it was new I painted the inside bottom areas of
the
> > doors with
> > polyester resin being carefull not to block the drain holes by leaving
> > a raised ridge.
>
> Generally speaking, all such things do is make the rust more difficult
to
> repair once it shows :)
With my 'lux I can't see it unless it's easy to spot on rough edges
that
were cut after being galveneealed, and even then you have to look for
it,
and it's just not a problem, actually the metal sup****ts under the
tray come
to mind - wipe the marks off with a cloth.
> With steel car bodies, the best you can ever hope to do is slow rust
down,
> as there is no 100% effective way of preventing it from ever occurring
short
> of taking a brand new vehicle from a manufacturer and placing it in
> temperature controlled dry storage from day one. If you drive it and it
ever
> gets exposed to the elemnents, then rust will form in certain areas
quite
> quickly as manufacturers have yet to build a vehicle that doesn't fling
> water into hidden out of the way areas for it to pool and attack the
metal.
> Just how quickly it becomes a major problem depends largely on how well
the
> car was put together on the day it was made, and how often you treat it
to a
> "rust retarding" procedure.
Yep, agreed.
> Generally, about the best thing you can do is use fisholene or fish oil
> sprayed into as many nooks and crannies as you can at regular intervals.
> coating the insides of panels with "hard" coatings like body deadener or
> resin does very little other than provide a good "sandwich" layer for
> moisture to get trapped in and do it's job.
Fish oil and the honey coloured goop do exactly that. Polyester resin
tends
to strongly bond. They make GLARE out of it for the A380 airbus. The
honey
coloured goop is also a paint stripper - that was proved in the 1984
Meteor.
> The *only* way to make cars that don't rust is to make them out of
plastic.
> Aluminium has benefits in that it's lighter, but it's also *way* more
> expensive and corrodes just as badly as steel.
It's worse than that. The redox reaction between the steel and
aluminium
structures see the steel part have a short life. Friend's LandRover
shows this.
> > And it's been by the ocean for it's entire life.
>
> Being by the ocean really is a bit of an old wive's tale as far as car
rust
> is concerned, as cars that live "by the ocean" generally don't rust any
> quicker than those that live anywhere else. I live 200 mtrs from the
beach,
If you have full on Southly winds ripping up the ocean and leaving
salt residue
on everything?
I had to move my dirt bike and store it at a friend's place because it
was suffering, it then settled down.
> If you were driving your car into the *water* at the beach then that'd
be a
> different story, as it'd rust quite quicky indeed, but living near the
beach
> doesn't represent any more of a problem than living in a desert.
It's been covered in salt spray many times. Granted it gets washed if
in th
e ocean.
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