On Wed, 07 May 2008 06:58:11 +1000d, Jeßus Blathered on
infvqggb$k2e$1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Toby Ponsenby wrote:
>> On Tue, 06 May 2008 02:21:34 +1000d, Jeßus Blathered on
>> infvnbu0$mj3$1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>>> Toby Ponsenby wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 05 May 2008 18:25:45 +1000d, Jeßus Blathered on
>>>> infvmg20$s80$1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>>
>>>>> I'm checking out a couple of 75 series Cruisers tomorrow morning,
>>>>> both (presumably) still have 2H diesels. Apart from the obvious
>>>>> (such as test driving them), does anyone know of anything to look
>>>>> out for with the 2H? Any common problems these engines are prone to
>>>>> and if so, any way to check visually without resorting to pulling
>>>>> them apart?
>>>>>
>>>>> I suppose ditto for the rest of the drive train as well ...
>>>>>
>>>>> Although I haven't driven one for nearly 15 years, I used to drive
>>>>> them daily for many years, so any odd noises etc should be easy for
>>>>> me to pick up on (I hope!)
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Tnx,
>>>> just some random observations...
>>>>
>>>> Glo-plugs.. Don't warn the seller? of your approach, so they don't
>>>> get to warm the engine up before you get there. Injector tips can be
>>>> a problem with high milers - puffy smokers at idle might telegraph
>>>> that. They also develop a distinct bell-like sound at idle with
>>>> rooted injector time.
>>>> Most of the other stupid little problems they have seem to require a
>>>> spanner or two - like problems with the seals of the pump. Oil where
>>>> air should be - one bolt for that. Diesel getting past the front pump
>>>> seal is a little harder to check:-) And the usual ****y Toyota trick
>>>> of letting the diff oil into the wheel bearings. That is turn lets
>>>> the swivel pin bearings burfield joints designed to work with Grease
>>>> stuff up and so on and so forth. Look for oil seepage near the outer
>>>> seals/FW Hubs. They are also justly famous for pumping all the oil
>>>> out of the transfer case - which of course they hide in the gearbox.
>>>> Result is a ****ed transfer case and gearbox seals, for that matter.
>>>> There's a operational cure called a heart bypass done by some in
>>>> which a sturdy (should be Hydraulic pressure hose) pipe and fittings
>>>> set is adapted to drain oil above the gearbox filler back to the
>>>> transfer case filler. Works a treat - one of them on the machine is a
>>>> sure sign that someone gave a **** about it. Or was burned for
>>>> transfer case work in the past.
>>>>
>>>> Some high milers dump too much oil past worn rockers making the
>>>> engine conk-out just after starting due low oil pressure. They can
>>>> duplicate that problem by having a stuffed timer relay, too. Damm
>>>> hard to tell the difference because Toyota appears to have over-
>>>> damped the oil pressure gauges.
>>>> BTW if you get a chance, get at the oil pressure sender lower RHS of
>>>> the engine and yank the plug off. (bit hazy n whether it needs to be
>>>> earthed to stop the engine - I think not - that O/C does it - but you
>>>> get the idea. The engine should either stop, or not start if it was
>>>> stopped when you played. Yes, believe it or not they do have a low
>>>> oil pressure cut- off system and it's not hard to defeat to disguise
>>>> a rooted mill.
>>>>
>>>> The brake master cyl will most likely be stuffed - see other
>>>> thread:-) Since they don't make much power anyway, it's pretty hard
>>>> to tell of they are clagged out, but a little hill should see whether
>>>> the engine actually hangs on it's torque-peak properly - only a good
>>>> 2H will do that. Other than that, they're pretty right..........,
>>>> well, I hope so.
>>>>
>>>> BTW if the things you look at have the later HZ engines and there is
>>>> ANY sign of their being overheated, walk away. Fast. From what I'm
>>>> told by those who work on them they're not a successful repair
>>>> proposition if they've been cooked.
>>> Thanks very much Toby, most appreciated indeed.
>>>
>>> Interesting about the oil pressure cut-off switch, didn't know it
>>> existed. As for the oil leaks... those I do have fond memories of :)
>>>
>>> As these engines are quite old, high mileage and a lacking in power
>>> (by todays standards at least) I'm not expecting too much from them,
>>> but it'd be good to have an indication of their general condition.
>>>
>>> Both of these utes are around the $6K mark so *if* they check out well
>>> in other respects, i.e straight and no real rust (and they are
>>> supposed to be very good in that respect), then I had in mind an
>>> engine transplant of some sort in the long term. Many options in that
>>> department and I've made no firm decision on that at this stage.
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>
>>
>>
>> heh - I bought one once from WA that had no rust. But every single
>> panel on it was utterly ****ed and it didn't take long for the
>> barbed-wire scratches to let the dreaded rust get motivated on the
>> eastern seaboard. Good truck, though - it hadn't ever been on the
>> highway and the metering pump took about 1000Kms of WOT to decide it
>> could in fact get past where it had lived insofar as fuel delivery in
>> the past. Went very well after that.
>>
>>
>> Good luck - I can't help liking the older cruisers - with all their
>> fraughtness:-)
>
> Yep - they're excellent at what they're designed for, and it's my idea
> of a 4X4. No ****ing carpet, airbags and other bull****, an interior
> that will handle mud etc, and a chassis that will take a lot of
> punishment. Doors, roof, windscreen can be unbolted. My kind of 4X4 :)
>
> Not so great in the city, but that's not a problem for me. Besides, I
> have other vehicles for those sort of trips.
>
>> Hate to be the bearer of unglad tidings - but I have it on reliable
>> authority that no-one has managed to fit a 1HZ into a Cruiser meant to
>> take a 2H. Really. Don't know why as you'd think it would be a
>> natural:-(
>
> Yeah, you'd think a 1HZ would be a shoe-in??
>
> As it turns out, one the Crusiers I looked at was a petrol (3F). It was
> by far in better condition all around, not a trace of rust or panel
> damage.
>
> The diesel I looked at was much rougher, quite a few dings and wear and
> tear... and unsurprisingly infinitely less powerful than the petrol.
> IIRC the 2H was only good for less than 90KW, so an old one with over
> 300,000 on the clock... Plus, there was a ****load of play in the
> steering, apart from that mechanically it did seem ok.
>
> I bought the petrol Cruiser as I couldn't ignore it's condition. It was
> a farm vehicle but the guy sure must have babied the thing. I know the
> 3F drinks fuel like no tomorrow (I used to own a 2F years ago) and no
> dual fuel either - but as mentioned before I was thinking about an
> engine transplant in the long term anyway.
>
> As for transplant options, I may or may not go diesel, depending on what
> comes my way at what cost and the complexity involved. Wouldn't mind a
> turbo diesel...
>
> Can't stop thinking about possibly a Lexus V8 actually - would be near
> double the power at half the weight and vastly better fuel consumption.
> Smooth and torquey enough at low revs, and they're pretty cheap to buy.
> That said, I've no idea if any kits exist for this particular transplant
> as I type this. I will definitely investigate though.
>
> How about a dirty big ***mins diesel? Hmm :)
Don't have much info on the 3F tucked away - but I'm guessing it's a carb
that handles the mix?
The later injected 6 converted to a LPG vapour phase injection would have
to be a good thing. It would certainly cost a hell of a lot less to run
than the diesel anything. But can you buy LPG on Fraser?
Solution would be big MoFo tank(s):-)
--
Toby
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