Toby Ponsenby wrote:
> On Wed, 07 May 2008 06:58:11 +1000d, Jeßus Blathered on
> infvqggb$k2e$1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>> Toby Ponsenby wrote:
>>> On Tue, 06 May 2008 02:21:34 +1000d, Jeßus Blathered on
>>> infvnbu0$mj3$1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>
>>>> Toby Ponsenby wrote:
>>>>> On Mon, 05 May 2008 18:25:45 +1000d, Jeßus Blathered on
>>>>> infvmg20$s80$1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm checking out a couple of 75 series Cruisers tomorrow morning,
>>>>>> both (presumably) still have 2H diesels. Apart from the obvious
>>>>>> (such as test driving them), does anyone know of anything to look
>>>>>> out for with the 2H? Any common problems these engines are prone to
>>>>>> and if so, any way to check visually without resorting to pulling
>>>>>> them apart?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I suppose ditto for the rest of the drive train as well ...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Although I haven't driven one for nearly 15 years, I used to drive
>>>>>> them daily for many years, so any odd noises etc should be easy for
>>>>>> me to pick up on (I hope!)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Tnx,
>>>>> just some random observations...
>>>>>
>>>>> Glo-plugs.. Don't warn the seller? of your approach, so they don't
>>>>> get to warm the engine up before you get there. Injector tips can be
>>>>> a problem with high milers - puffy smokers at idle might telegraph
>>>>> that. They also develop a distinct bell-like sound at idle with
>>>>> rooted injector time.
>>>>> Most of the other stupid little problems they have seem to require a
>>>>> spanner or two - like problems with the seals of the pump. Oil where
>>>>> air should be - one bolt for that. Diesel getting past the front
pump
>>>>> seal is a little harder to check:-) And the usual ****y Toyota
trick
>>>>> of letting the diff oil into the wheel bearings. That is turn lets
>>>>> the swivel pin bearings burfield joints designed to work with Grease
>>>>> stuff up and so on and so forth. Look for oil seepage near the outer
>>>>> seals/FW Hubs. They are also justly famous for pumping all the oil
>>>>> out of the transfer case - which of course they hide in the gearbox.
>>>>> Result is a ****ed transfer case and gearbox seals, for that matter.
>>>>> There's a operational cure called a heart bypass done by some in
>>>>> which a sturdy (should be Hydraulic pressure hose) pipe and fittings
>>>>> set is adapted to drain oil above the gearbox filler back to the
>>>>> transfer case filler. Works a treat - one of them on the machine is
a
>>>>> sure sign that someone gave a **** about it. Or was burned for
>>>>> transfer case work in the past.
>>>>>
>>>>> Some high milers dump too much oil past worn rockers making the
>>>>> engine conk-out just after starting due low oil pressure. They can
>>>>> duplicate that problem by having a stuffed timer relay, too. Damm
>>>>> hard to tell the difference because Toyota appears to have over-
>>>>> damped the oil pressure gauges.
>>>>> BTW if you get a chance, get at the oil pressure sender lower RHS of
>>>>> the engine and yank the plug off. (bit hazy n whether it needs to be
>>>>> earthed to stop the engine - I think not - that O/C does it - but
you
>>>>> get the idea. The engine should either stop, or not start if it was
>>>>> stopped when you played. Yes, believe it or not they do have a low
>>>>> oil pressure cut- off system and it's not hard to defeat to disguise
>>>>> a rooted mill.
>>>>>
>>>>> The brake master cyl will most likely be stuffed - see other
>>>>> thread:-) Since they don't make much power anyway, it's pretty hard
>>>>> to tell of they are clagged out, but a little hill should see
whether
>>>>> the engine actually hangs on it's torque-peak properly - only a good
>>>>> 2H will do that. Other than that, they're pretty right..........,
>>>>> well, I hope so.
>>>>>
>>>>> BTW if the things you look at have the later HZ engines and there is
>>>>> ANY sign of their being overheated, walk away. Fast. From what I'm
>>>>> told by those who work on them they're not a successful repair
>>>>> proposition if they've been cooked.
>>>> Thanks very much Toby, most appreciated indeed.
>>>>
>>>> Interesting about the oil pressure cut-off switch, didn't know it
>>>> existed. As for the oil leaks... those I do have fond memories of :)
>>>>
>>>> As these engines are quite old, high mileage and a lacking in power
>>>> (by todays standards at least) I'm not expecting too much from them,
>>>> but it'd be good to have an indication of their general condition.
>>>>
>>>> Both of these utes are around the $6K mark so *if* they check out
well
>>>> in other respects, i.e straight and no real rust (and they are
>>>> supposed to be very good in that respect), then I had in mind an
>>>> engine transplant of some sort in the long term. Many options in that
>>>> department and I've made no firm decision on that at this stage.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers
>>>
>>>
>>> heh - I bought one once from WA that had no rust. But every single
>>> panel on it was utterly ****ed and it didn't take long for the
>>> barbed-wire scratches to let the dreaded rust get motivated on the
>>> eastern seaboard. Good truck, though - it hadn't ever been on the
>>> highway and the metering pump took about 1000Kms of WOT to decide it
>>> could in fact get past where it had lived insofar as fuel delivery in
>>> the past. Went very well after that.
>>>
>>>
>>> Good luck - I can't help liking the older cruisers - with all their
>>> fraughtness:-)
>> Yep - they're excellent at what they're designed for, and it's my idea
>> of a 4X4. No ****ing carpet, airbags and other bull****, an interior
>> that will handle mud etc, and a chassis that will take a lot of
>> punishment. Doors, roof, windscreen can be unbolted. My kind of 4X4 :)
>>
>> Not so great in the city, but that's not a problem for me. Besides, I
>> have other vehicles for those sort of trips.
>>
>>> Hate to be the bearer of unglad tidings - but I have it on reliable
>>> authority that no-one has managed to fit a 1HZ into a Cruiser meant to
>>> take a 2H. Really. Don't know why as you'd think it would be a
>>> natural:-(
>> Yeah, you'd think a 1HZ would be a shoe-in??
>>
>> As it turns out, one the Crusiers I looked at was a petrol (3F). It was
>> by far in better condition all around, not a trace of rust or panel
>> damage.
>>
>> The diesel I looked at was much rougher, quite a few dings and wear and
>> tear... and unsurprisingly infinitely less powerful than the petrol.
>> IIRC the 2H was only good for less than 90KW, so an old one with over
>> 300,000 on the clock... Plus, there was a ****load of play in the
>> steering, apart from that mechanically it did seem ok.
>>
>> I bought the petrol Cruiser as I couldn't ignore it's condition. It was
>> a farm vehicle but the guy sure must have babied the thing. I know the
>> 3F drinks fuel like no tomorrow (I used to own a 2F years ago) and no
>> dual fuel either - but as mentioned before I was thinking about an
>> engine transplant in the long term anyway.
>>
>> As for transplant options, I may or may not go diesel, depending on
what
>> comes my way at what cost and the complexity involved. Wouldn't mind a
>> turbo diesel...
>>
>> Can't stop thinking about possibly a Lexus V8 actually - would be near
>> double the power at half the weight and vastly better fuel consumption.
>> Smooth and torquey enough at low revs, and they're pretty cheap to buy.
>> That said, I've no idea if any kits exist for this particular
transplant
>> as I type this. I will definitely investigate though.
>>
>> How about a dirty big Cummins diesel? Hmm :)
>
> Don't have much info on the 3F tucked away - but I'm guessing it's a
carb
> that handles the mix?
Yup.
> The later injected 6 converted to a LPG vapour phase injection would
have
> to be a good thing. It would certainly cost a hell of a lot less to run
> than the diesel anything. But can you buy LPG on Fraser?
> Solution would be big MoFo tank(s):-)
The 4.5L twin cam/injected engine would be alright... I'll keep my
options open, depending on what I can actually get my hands on and at
what price.
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