"Jeßus" <power_sliding@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:g0bfde$c8p$1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Well, if it makes you feel any better, I did decide a while back to
> 'downgrade' to something like Mobile 1 in future, due to the cost.
Hey, it's your car and your money.
> Meantime, I still have one 4L and one 2L bottle of Motul 300V sitting
here
> waiting for the next oil change.
Nice.
> That said, I'm not fully convinced about your theory.
Be as skeptical as you like, but there is nothing you'll find anywhere
that
proves the uber expensive stuff you have will do diddly sqaut more than
cheap mineral oil of the same spec within the regular service time frame.
If
you're going to step outside of those boundaries and only change your oil
once every ten years *then* it will have some benefit as it will last
longer
and remain a more effective lubricant than a plain old mineral oil will.
However, if you're changing oil at reasonable regular intervals then all
you're really doing is flu****ng than extra money down the drain. You'd be
better off using a plain old mineral oil of the right spec for the engine
and using the money you save to buy something that actually makes the car
go
harder.
> The car in question does see track days and I'm not shy about sinking
the
> right foot on country roads at least once a week. It gets to spend a lot
> of time at high revs.
Here's something worth considering for a moment.
When talking about high rpm engines most people think that the oil they
use
will help "save the engine" by preventing a problem that a regular oil
might
otherwise suffer from. Some think that the extra load on a high spinning
engine will tax a regular oil beyond it's limits, and that will result in
a
failure. The plain old simple truth is that oils is oils as far as the
specs
go, and any failure you're going to have (such as a spun bearing for
example) won't be prevented by *any* oil regardless of what it is. If the
cheapest priced mineral you can buy meets a minimum spec, then it will do
exactly the same job as an identical specced oil that costs ten times as
much with the only difference being that synthetics tend to last longer
before they break down.
But as I said, if you're changing oil well within the time this is likely
to
occur, then you're wasting your money.
I've known a *lot* of people who have built uber high rpm engines and
spent
*hours* testing a bunch of different oils on the engine dyno, and the only
reason they've done that is to pick up the odd one or two horsepower that
some oils can give you. Generally, when you're changing oils to get an
extra
pony or two it's because you've exhausted every other possible avenue for
gains, and few people get anywhere near that level.
--
Regards,
Noddy.
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