In article <48294b5d$0$58055$c30e37c6@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>,=20
me@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
says...
>=20
> "Je=DFus" <power_sliding@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message=20
> news:g0bfde$c8p$1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>=20
> > Well, if it makes you feel any better, I did decide a while back to=20
> > 'downgrade' to something like Mobile 1 in future, due to the cost.
>=20
> Hey, it's your car and your money.
>=20
> > Meantime, I still have one 4L and one 2L bottle of Motul 300V sitting
h=
ere=20
> > waiting for the next oil change.
>=20
> Nice.
>=20
> > That said, I'm not fully convinced about your theory.
>=20
> Be as skeptical as you like, but there is nothing you'll find anywhere
th=
at=20
> proves the uber expensive stuff you have will do diddly sqaut more than=
=20
> cheap mineral oil of the same spec within the regular service time
frame.=
If=20
> you're going to step outside of those boundaries and only change your
oil=
=20
> once every ten years *then* it will have some benefit as it will last
lon=
ger=20
> and remain a more effective lubricant than a plain old mineral oil will.
>=20
> However, if you're changing oil at reasonable regular intervals then
all=
=20
> you're really doing is flu****ng than extra money down the drain. You'd
be=
=20
> better off using a plain old mineral oil of the right spec for the
engine=
=20
> and using the money you save to buy something that actually makes the
car=
go=20
> harder.
>=20
> > The car in question does see track days and I'm not shy about sinking
t=
he=20
> > right foot on country roads at least once a week. It gets to spend a
lo=
t=20
> > of time at high revs.
>=20
> Here's something worth considering for a moment.
>=20
> When talking about high rpm engines most people think that the oil they
u=
se=20
> will help "save the engine" by preventing a problem that a regular oil
mi=
ght=20
> otherwise suffer from. Some think that the extra load on a high
spinning=
=20
> engine will tax a regular oil beyond it's limits, and that will result
in=
a=20
> failure. The plain old simple truth is that oils is oils as far as the
sp=
ecs=20
> go, and any failure you're going to have (such as a spun bearing for=20
> example) won't be prevented by *any* oil regardless of what it is. If
the=
=20
> cheapest priced mineral you can buy meets a minimum spec, then it will
do=
=20
> exactly the same job as an identical specced oil that costs ten times
as=
=20
> much with the only difference being that synthetics tend to last longer=
=20
> before they break down.
>=20
> But as I said, if you're changing oil well within the time this is
likely=
to=20
> occur, then you're wasting your money.
>=20
> I've known a *lot* of people who have built uber high rpm engines and
spe=
nt=20
> *hours* testing a bunch of different oils on the engine dyno, and the
onl=
y=20
> reason they've done that is to pick up the odd one or two horsepower
that=
=20
> some oils can give you. Generally, when you're changing oils to get an
ex=
tra=20
> pony or two it's because you've exhausted every other possible avenue
for=
=20
> gains, and few people get anywhere near that level.
>=20
Small high reving engines test oil. I've smashed all the tappet adjusters=
=20
of a jap bike on a trip with oil that supposedly met the specs, nursing
=20
back slowly with ticking. Last time I used that *****ng oil.=20
Had another well know brand **** up in the current bike on a 1400 km
run=20
one summer when it only had about 30,000 km on it. Lost top gear set=20
(hard facing) as the oil foamed and had **** all shear strength, no=20
doubt a piss poor additive package, totally inappropriate for my=20
motorcycle but recommended by a bike shop. That mistake cost me about=20
$1000 all up.=20
Back to Castrol products with no similar problems even on a trip of=20
17000 km in 11 weeks... so **** you all with pineapples :-)=20
Al
--=20
I don't take sides.=20
It's more fun to insult everyone.=20
http://kwakakid.cjb.net/insult.html
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