I would recommend you stop using a Water Displacement fluid and get some
real penetrating fluid. A product named PB BLaster is decent, Liquid
Wrench is decent and I am sure there are a few more brands.
Liquid wrench will do in an hour what a water displacer like WD40 will
loosen in a week of daily soakings. (well, maybe a few days) There is a
radical difference. Even brake fluid is a better penetrant than WD40,
but it is real hard on paint.
Mike (in the rust belt)
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
MugMechanic wrote:
> I've been doing the brakes on my '94 Landcruiser, no problem with that,
but
> I've noticed a slight oil leak from the right rear axle when I pulled
off
> the brake disk to check the handbrake and adjust. So I suspect an axle
oil
> seal needs replacing.
> I have one of those rather useless Gregory's repair manuals and all it
says
> about removing the rear axle is :-
>
> 1. Remove the axle shaft to rear hub nuts and spring washers.
> [OK done, removed six 12mm nuts and spring washers, bit tight with
rust
> but they came off OK with WD40.]
>
> 2. Using a hammer and brass punch on the studs remove the cone washers
from
> the axle shaft flange.
> {Here I'm stuck. I've tried tapping the studs with a brass drift,
but
> nothing happens. I can see the "cone washers" but how hard do I have to
belt
> the studs to get them out? I'm afraid to bash the studs too hard for
fear of
> damaging them. I've applied some WD40 and let it stand overnight.}
>
> 3. Install 2 x M8x25mm bolts to the threaded holes in the axle shaft
flange
> and tighten evenly until the flange is dislodged from the rear hub.
>
> [OK no problem, I can do that, but it seems you have to get the cone
> washers out first as per step 2]
>
> There are no comprehensive illustrations in the Gregory's manual to
help.
>
> Can anyone please advise on how to go about step 2 to get the cone
washers
> out, just tapping the studs even fairly hard with the brass drift dies
not
> seem to do the trick.
>
> Cheers,
>
> MugMechanic.
>
>
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