damnnickname wrote:
> If you are mechanically inclined the timing belt is a rather easy job to
> do, no special tools are needed for this job. set cams, and crank and on
> your way.
> The book will probably tell you to remove the crank gear (you dont have
to
> do this unless you are replacing the crank seal then a special tool is
> needed).
> As far as the heater core/Evap, that could be a tricky job to do. I have
> never used alldata and sure wouldnt attempt this job with a
Haynes/Chilton
> manual. Just my 2 cents worth
>
> Glenn Beasley
> Chrysler Tech
>
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If I may add:
I have not done the timing belt on my Concorde with the 3.2L - I paid a
shop to do it - I suppled the parts and they charged a flat $300 (I
think they may have undercharged me a little). I hear that unless you
pull the radiator, you would need a special short harmonic balancer
puller. The shop that did mine complained when IO went to pick it up
that they had to go out and buy a shorter-than-normal puller for the my
job.
ALSO - It is claimed by several on the various LH car forums that, if
you're careful, you can work the t-belt around the balancer pulley
without removing the pulley.
(Oops - I think that's what you're talking about Glenn - at first I was
thinking you were talking about removing the cam sprockets, but I think
you're also talking about the balancer pulley?)
Glenn (the OP Glenn) - you asked this: "Is that special piece that keeps
the cam sprockets steady necessary, or do I merely be very cautious
about working around them?"
From my reading on the LH car forums, you don't need that special tool
to hold the cams. HOWEVER, there are *several* posts where people who
did their timing belts were scratching their heads afterwards because it
wouldn't run, or ran poorly when they finished. Usually they didn't
double check how they timed the cams and crank when they put it in *or*
problems with the cam sensor not being in right (apparently it's real
finicky). The cure in those cases is them re-doing the belt timing or
re-installing the cam sensor and its gasket very carefully.
I agree with Glenn on not using a Haynes or Chiltons (for anything).
When I did my eva****ator last summer, I used my hard copy FSM even
though I also have the AllData subscription on that car. My take on
AllData is that the info. that they do have is right out of the FSM, BUT
they do not include the entire FSM. I did not try to pull up the
procedural info. on my AllData account for replacing the evap., so I
can't say for sure if there is holes in that info. - I would not be
surprised to find that there are.
I can tell you that the FSM is one of those written such that each
procedure is not self-complete - IOW, just about every 2nd or 3rd step
in the process refers you to another section to read for a "sub-process"
(i.e., as in "(1) Remove neg. battery cable - see section ABC; (2)
Discharge the a.c. system - see section FJV; (3) Remove dash - see
section QLM; etc. etc.), and each section you're referred to will in
turn be referring you to other sections. I can tell you that you don't
have enough fingers to hold all the places of the entire procedure.
Before I started, I read thru the whole process and photocopied all
pages involved, then put them together in order with notes and arrows to
the next section needed.
There's also a couple of pieces of erroneous info. on the FSM, but
nothing that's too hard to figure out when you get to it. There are a
couple of places that either are written incorrectly or that were
written so poorly and I'm just too stupid to figure out what they were
trying to say - even after I did whatever it was, I couldn't tell you if
what they said was right or wrong, but I muddled thru.
My only other comment at this time is that, with all the labor of
R&R'ing the dash, if your eva****ator craps out on you 6 months after
replacing the heater core, you're going to be kicking yourself. But
then, life's just full of risks, aint't it.
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')
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