Does the 3.2L have the same O-ring design (behind the water pump - between
the water pump housing assembly and the engine block) as the 3.5L? If so,
then you will need to pull one of the cam sprockets (passenger side, if I
recall correctly - it has been several years, so I may be wrong) to remove
the water pump housing and replace that O-ring.
I mention this here because I made the mistake of not replacing this
O-ring
when I did my first water pump on a 1996 Eagle Vision 3.5L. Everything
seemed fine for a year, but then it started leaking again. I thought I
got
a bad pump from the dealer, but upon opening things up and looking much
more
closely, discovered the additional O-ring (same physical size/part number
as
the O-ring used between the water pump and the housing itself). Upon
removing the housing, I discovered that the aluminum housing had
significant
corrosion where it mated with the iron block. I was able to wire brush
everything to get it clean and applied a liberal coating of blue permatex
RTV. That was about 5 years ago and the replacement pump and O-rings are
still holding up well.
Regarding Glenn's suggestion not to pull the crankshaft harmonic balancer
pulley, I second this since it is a PITA to remove and unnecessary since
the
belt can be removed and installed with it still in place. If I remember
correctly, the entire job took me about 3 hours, including
removal/re-installation of the radiator, timing belt cover, water pump,
cam
sprocket, and water pump housing. I'd also encourage you to consider
replacing all the belts, tensioner, and idler at the same time to not have
to do it again any time soon.
Bob
"Bill Putney" <bptn@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:6108enF1rqo0lU1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> damnnickname wrote:
>> If you are mechanically inclined the timing belt is a rather easy job
to
>> do, no special tools are needed for this job. set cams, and crank and
on
>> your way.
>> The book will probably tell you to remove the crank gear (you dont have
>> to
>> do this unless you are replacing the crank seal then a special tool is
>> needed).
>> As far as the heater core/Evap, that could be a tricky job to do. I
have
>> never used alldata and sure wouldnt attempt this job with a
>> Haynes/Chilton
>> manual. Just my 2 cents worth
>>
>> Glenn Beasley
>> Chrysler Tech
>>
>> --
>> Message posted using
>> http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/rec.autos.makers.chrysler/
>> More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
>
> If I may add:
>
> I have not done the timing belt on my Concorde with the 3.2L - I paid a
> shop to do it - I suppled the parts and they charged a flat $300 (I
think
> they may have undercharged me a little). I hear that unless you pull
the
> radiator, you would need a special short harmonic balancer puller. The
> shop that did mine complained when IO went to pick it up that they had
to
> go out and buy a shorter-than-normal puller for the my job.
>
> ALSO - It is claimed by several on the various LH car forums that, if
> you're careful, you can work the t-belt around the balancer pulley
without
> removing the pulley.
>
> (Oops - I think that's what you're talking about Glenn - at first I was
> thinking you were talking about removing the cam sprockets, but I think
> you're also talking about the balancer pulley?)
>
> Glenn (the OP Glenn) - you asked this: "Is that special piece that keeps
> the cam sprockets steady necessary, or do I merely be very cautious
about
> working around them?"
>
> From my reading on the LH car forums, you don't need that special tool
to
> hold the cams. HOWEVER, there are *several* posts where people who did
> their timing belts were scratching their heads afterwards because it
> wouldn't run, or ran poorly when they finished. Usually they didn't
> double check how they timed the cams and crank when they put it in *or*
> problems with the cam sensor not being in right (apparently it's real
> finicky). The cure in those cases is them re-doing the belt timing or
> re-installing the cam sensor and its gasket very carefully.
>
> I agree with Glenn on not using a Haynes or Chiltons (for anything).
When
> I did my eva****ator last summer, I used my hard copy FSM even though I
> also have the AllData subscription on that car. My take on AllData is
> that the info. that they do have is right out of the FSM, BUT they do
not
> include the entire FSM. I did not try to pull up the procedural info.
on
> my AllData account for replacing the evap., so I can't say for sure if
> there is holes in that info. - I would not be surprised to find that
there
> are.
>
> I can tell you that the FSM is one of those written such that each
> procedure is not self-complete - IOW, just about every 2nd or 3rd step
in
> the process refers you to another section to read for a "sub-process"
> (i.e., as in "(1) Remove neg. battery cable - see section ABC; (2)
> Discharge the a.c. system - see section FJV; (3) Remove dash - see
section
> QLM; etc. etc.), and each section you're referred to will in turn be
> referring you to other sections. I can tell you that you don't have
> enough fingers to hold all the places of the entire procedure. Before I
> started, I read thru the whole process and photocopied all pages
involved,
> then put them together in order with notes and arrows to the next
section
> needed.
>
> There's also a couple of pieces of erroneous info. on the FSM, but
nothing
> that's too hard to figure out when you get to it. There are a couple of
> places that either are written incorrectly or that were written so
poorly
> and I'm just too stupid to figure out what they were trying to say -
even
> after I did whatever it was, I couldn't tell you if what they said was
> right or wrong, but I muddled thru.
>
> My only other comment at this time is that, with all the labor of
R&R'ing
> the dash, if your eva****ator craps out on you 6 months after replacing
the
> heater core, you're going to be kicking yourself. But then, life's just
> full of risks, aint't it.
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address
> with the letter 'x')
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