"Bill Putney" <bptn@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:6108enF1rqo0lU1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> damnnickname wrote:
> > If you are mechanically inclined the timing belt is a rather easy job
to
> > do, no special tools are needed for this job. set cams, and crank and
on
> > your way.
> > The book will probably tell you to remove the crank gear (you dont
have
to
> > do this unless you are replacing the crank seal then a special tool is
> > needed).
> > As far as the heater core/Evap, that could be a tricky job to do. I
have
> > never used alldata and sure wouldnt attempt this job with a
Haynes/Chilton
> > manual. Just my 2 cents worth
> >
> > Glenn Beasley
> > Chrysler Tech
> >
> > --
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> > More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
>
> If I may add:
>
> I have not done the timing belt on my Concorde with the 3.2L - I paid a
> shop to do it - I suppled the parts and they charged a flat $300 (I
> think they may have undercharged me a little). I hear that unless you
> pull the radiator, you would need a special short harmonic balancer
> puller. The shop that did mine complained when IO went to pick it up
> that they had to go out and buy a shorter-than-normal puller for the my
job.
>
> ALSO - It is claimed by several on the various LH car forums that, if
> you're careful, you can work the t-belt around the balancer pulley
> without removing the pulley.
The crank has a mark, both cams have a mark. Put the belt under the crank
sprocket (after taking off the tensioner idler pulley) Install tensioner
Idler Pulley. Set the drivers side cam sprocket at theTDC mark and
install
the belt onto that sprocket, set the passenger side cam sproket about 1
tooth off and install the belt over that sprocket, pull the cam sprocket
with belt on it back to the TDC mark (this will allow it to happen
because
of slack in the belt), install belt over tensioner.
>
> (Oops - I think that's what you're talking about Glenn - at first I was
> thinking you were talking about removing the cam sprockets, but I think
> you're also talking about the balancer pulley?)
No leave cam sprockets alone
>
> Glenn (the OP Glenn) - you asked this: "Is that special piece that keeps
> the cam sprockets steady necessary, or do I merely be very cautious
> about working around them?"
not needed, I beleive thats an after market tool that is used on some set
ups, mostly chain/sprockets. You dont need such a tool
>
> From my reading on the LH car forums, you don't need that special tool
> to hold the cams. HOWEVER, there are *several* posts where people who
> did their timing belts were scratching their heads afterwards because it
> wouldn't run, or ran poorly when they finished. Usually they didn't
> double check how they timed the cams and crank when they put it in *or*
> problems with the cam sensor not being in right (apparently it's real
> finicky). The cure in those cases is them re-doing the belt timing or
> re-installing the cam sensor and its gasket very carefully.
Probably didnt run because they didnt set it up correctly to begin with.
If
the belt is installed and before installing covers you check the Timing
marks at both cams and crank it will start!!!
>
> I agree with Glenn on not using a Haynes or Chiltons (for anything).
> When I did my eva****ator last summer, I used my hard copy FSM even
> though I also have the AllData subscription on that car. My take on
> AllData is that the info. that they do have is right out of the FSM, BUT
> they do not include the entire FSM. I did not try to pull up the
> procedural info. on my AllData account for replacing the evap., so I
> can't say for sure if there is holes in that info. - I would not be
> surprised to find that there are.
>
> I can tell you that the FSM is one of those written such that each
> procedure is not self-complete - IOW, just about every 2nd or 3rd step
> in the process refers you to another section to read for a "sub-process"
> (i.e., as in "(1) Remove neg. battery cable - see section ABC; (2)
> Discharge the a.c. system - see section FJV; (3) Remove dash - see
> section QLM; etc. etc.), and each section you're referred to will in
> turn be referring you to other sections. I can tell you that you don't
> have enough fingers to hold all the places of the entire procedure.
> Before I started, I read thru the whole process and photocopied all
> pages involved, then put them together in order with notes and arrows to
> the next section needed.
>
> There's also a couple of pieces of erroneous info. on the FSM, but
> nothing that's too hard to figure out when you get to it. There are a
> couple of places that either are written incorrectly or that were
> written so poorly and I'm just too stupid to figure out what they were
> trying to say - even after I did whatever it was, I couldn't tell you if
> what they said was right or wrong, but I muddled thru.
>
> My only other comment at this time is that, with all the labor of
> R&R'ing the dash, if your eva****ator craps out on you 6 months after
> replacing the heater core, you're going to be kicking yourself. But
> then, life's just full of risks, aint't it.
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address with the letter 'x')
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