Thanks for all the input folks. I think I'll bite the bullet and pay the
$$$
to have both items serviced. At least their warranty is generous, 18k/18m.
Just work xtra job to pay for it all!
;-)
"maxpower" <damnnickname@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:57ydnd1lA5dn7DbanZ2dnUVZ_vumnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> "Bill Putney" <bptn@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:6108enF1rqo0lU1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> damnnickname wrote:
>> > If you are mechanically inclined the timing belt is a rather easy job
>> > to
>> > do, no special tools are needed for this job. set cams, and crank and
>> > on
>> > your way.
>> > The book will probably tell you to remove the crank gear (you dont
have
> to
>> > do this unless you are replacing the crank seal then a special tool
is
>> > needed).
>> > As far as the heater core/Evap, that could be a tricky job to do. I
>> > have
>> > never used alldata and sure wouldnt attempt this job with a
> Haynes/Chilton
>> > manual. Just my 2 cents worth
>> >
>> > Glenn Beasley
>> > Chrysler Tech
>> >
>> > --
>> > Message posted using
> http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/rec.autos.makers.chrysler/
>> > More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
>>
>> If I may add:
>>
>> I have not done the timing belt on my Concorde with the 3.2L - I paid a
>> shop to do it - I suppled the parts and they charged a flat $300 (I
>> think they may have undercharged me a little). I hear that unless you
>> pull the radiator, you would need a special short harmonic balancer
>> puller. The shop that did mine complained when IO went to pick it up
>> that they had to go out and buy a shorter-than-normal puller for the my
> job.
>>
>> ALSO - It is claimed by several on the various LH car forums that, if
>> you're careful, you can work the t-belt around the balancer pulley
>> without removing the pulley.
>
> The crank has a mark, both cams have a mark. Put the belt under the
crank
> sprocket (after taking off the tensioner idler pulley) Install tensioner
> Idler Pulley. Set the drivers side cam sprocket at theTDC mark and
> install
> the belt onto that sprocket, set the passenger side cam sproket about 1
> tooth off and install the belt over that sprocket, pull the cam sprocket
> with belt on it back to the TDC mark (this will allow it to happen
> because
> of slack in the belt), install belt over tensioner.
>>
>> (Oops - I think that's what you're talking about Glenn - at first I was
>> thinking you were talking about removing the cam sprockets, but I think
>> you're also talking about the balancer pulley?)
>
> No leave cam sprockets alone
>>
>> Glenn (the OP Glenn) - you asked this: "Is that special piece that
keeps
>> the cam sprockets steady necessary, or do I merely be very cautious
>> about working around them?"
>
> not needed, I beleive thats an after market tool that is used on some
set
> ups, mostly chain/sprockets. You dont need such a tool
>>
>> From my reading on the LH car forums, you don't need that special tool
>> to hold the cams. HOWEVER, there are *several* posts where people who
>> did their timing belts were scratching their heads afterwards because
it
>> wouldn't run, or ran poorly when they finished. Usually they didn't
>> double check how they timed the cams and crank when they put it in *or*
>> problems with the cam sensor not being in right (apparently it's real
>> finicky). The cure in those cases is them re-doing the belt timing or
>> re-installing the cam sensor and its gasket very carefully.
>
> Probably didnt run because they didnt set it up correctly to begin with.
> If
> the belt is installed and before installing covers you check the Timing
> marks at both cams and crank it will start!!!
>>
>> I agree with Glenn on not using a Haynes or Chiltons (for anything).
>> When I did my eva****ator last summer, I used my hard copy FSM even
>> though I also have the AllData subscription on that car. My take on
>> AllData is that the info. that they do have is right out of the FSM,
BUT
>> they do not include the entire FSM. I did not try to pull up the
>> procedural info. on my AllData account for replacing the evap., so I
>> can't say for sure if there is holes in that info. - I would not be
>> surprised to find that there are.
>>
>> I can tell you that the FSM is one of those written such that each
>> procedure is not self-complete - IOW, just about every 2nd or 3rd step
>> in the process refers you to another section to read for a
"sub-process"
>> (i.e., as in "(1) Remove neg. battery cable - see section ABC; (2)
>> Discharge the a.c. system - see section FJV; (3) Remove dash - see
>> section QLM; etc. etc.), and each section you're referred to will in
>> turn be referring you to other sections. I can tell you that you don't
>> have enough fingers to hold all the places of the entire procedure.
>> Before I started, I read thru the whole process and photocopied all
>> pages involved, then put them together in order with notes and arrows
to
>> the next section needed.
>>
>> There's also a couple of pieces of erroneous info. on the FSM, but
>> nothing that's too hard to figure out when you get to it. There are a
>> couple of places that either are written incorrectly or that were
>> written so poorly and I'm just too stupid to figure out what they were
>> trying to say - even after I did whatever it was, I couldn't tell you
if
>> what they said was right or wrong, but I muddled thru.
>
>>
>> My only other comment at this time is that, with all the labor of
>> R&R'ing the dash, if your eva****ator craps out on you 6 months after
>> replacing the heater core, you're going to be kicking yourself. But
>> then, life's just full of risks, aint't it.
>>
>> Bill Putney
>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>> address with the letter 'x')
>
>
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