Aarcuda,
Glenn,
Philthy,
I did the simple dash vent temperature measurement and wanted to post the
results. The outside ambient air temperature this morning on the drive to
work was 20 degrees F and when I arrived at work and with the engine and
compartment fully warmed, the exhaust air temperature got up to 152
degrees
F using a HVAC probe type thermometer inserted about 5" into the dashboard
vane and the blower on medium speed setting.
I also attempted to actuate the A/C and listened for the air compressor to
cycle on, but it did not come on, but I suspect this is because the
outside
temperature is below the low temp cutout limit. (The A/C worked fine over
the Summer and Fall.)
Lastly, I tried to see if there was any noticeable difference in the
exhausted air speed or the sound when I had the blower on the highest
setting and moved the control knob between the standard dash setting and
the
"recirculated dash" setting, but on both settings I could not tell any
difference. This has me thinking that this may be the most fruitful
theory
to explore further at this time.
Perhaps this is a calibration issue resulting from the battery replacement
at a temperature below 50 degrees F as Glenn has suggested? Glenn, would
this re-calibration procedure (waiting till temperature is above 50
degrees
F, then removing the battery cable, waiting 10 minutes, reconnecting, and
then running the vehicle for 10 minutes at idle) impact the recirculation
door setting or is there some other thing you suggest that I can check?
In closing, I was also asked by Philthy to do one additional test and that
was to crack open the windows while they were fogging. I made a 40 mile
drive last night and tried this, but at 70+ MPH, all this seemed to do was
cool down the car and cause the side windows to freeze up sooner. By the
way, it was clear that even with the heat control at maximum setting,
blower
on full at highest speed, and with the full defroster setting, the faster
I
drove the worse the problem became. This tells me that the wind speed
increases the cooling on the wind****eld and side windows, and that the
humidity is probably never getting exhausted from the cabin, so just
saturates and constantly re-condenses on the cold windows. In worst case,
it actually then freezes solid making visibility impossible. I finally
found that barely popping open my moon roof to allow the hot air to vent
made the cabin temp more tolerable and maybe even helped a little with
getting some of the trapped moisture out of the car.
Thanks again to everyone for the great troubleshooting tips, at this point
I
am optimistic that this is the cause. Thanks also in advance for any
additional pointers on how to troubleshoot the recirculation door on this
base model 2.7L 2001 Intrepid SE.
Bob
"philthy" <dbrider@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:47B39BB9.75939F0@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> you might look at the floor mates for the moisture source try drivng
with
> the
> windows cracked and see if that helps remove the fog
> the ac system works when the defrost is on to dehumidify the air in the
> car and
> there is a good chance your ac is inop from a failed evap.coil does the
ac
> compressor cycle?? when turned on?
>
> Bob Shuman wrote:
>
>> I have a 2001 2.7L Dodge Intrepid SE (base model w/69K miles) that has
>> been
>> very reliable and served me well, but I am experiencing a "problem" and
>> would appreciate others thoughts.
>>
>> When the outside temperature is cold (and I will define cold here to
mean
>> somewhere below 10-15 degrees F), if I try to set the air outlet
control
>> to
>> the heater position (even when the car is 100% warmed up), then all of
>> the
>> windows in the car (this includes the rear window, side windows, and
the
>> front wid****eld) fog up (and will actually freeze) making visibility
>> impossible. The only solution is to run the defroster 100% of the time
>> and
>> even then, if it is extremely cold (like it is today with the
temperature
>> f -6 degrees F on my way into work), then the side windows will still
>> freeze up even with the defroster blowing hot air at full force.
>>
>> I've attempted to clean the windows thoroughly without any change in
this
>> condition and also tried to look for any possible source for the water
>> va****, but also without success. The engine coolant level is normal
and
>> is
>> not leaking. The coolant temperature gauge goes to the
normal/mid-scale
>> position when the car warms up (5-10 minutes) and the outlet control
and
>> blower speed both seem to work properly since air comes out of the
>> appropriate outlet dependent on the knob position. The Air Conditioner
>> also
>> works perfectly and the compressor clutch engages on warmer days when
the
>> defroster position is selected.
>>
>> At this point I am at a loss to explain this behavior and would
>> appreciate
>> knowing if other Intrepid owners experience the same issue or if
someone
>> has
>> any idea on what I can look for to see where this moisture comes from.
>> (I
>> know some of it comes from breathing, but this has NEVER been a problem
>> with
>> any other vehicles and they generally carry more passengers than I do
in
>> this car. Thanks in advance for all thoughts.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>
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