thanks , its' worth a try .
"Bill Putney" <bptn@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:64j4teF2be8a0U1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Randy Pape wrote:
>> This has been an ongoing problem with my 98 dodge stratus for five
>> months. This experience with this car proves to me why I never want to
>> take my car to a mechanic unless it's absolutely necessary. Five weeks
>> and two mechanics later, who were both highly recommended, my car still
>> isn't right. This car has a brand new distributor, timing belt, water
>> pump, EGR valve, PCV valve, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, plug
>> wires, cap and rotor, oil and filter, coolant temp sensor and battery.
>> The original problem started with what I was told was a bad fuel pump.
>> Then after that was changed, it turned into a hard-starting, no power
>> issue. The first mechanic told me he checked the catalytic converter,
>> which he never did. He also said he did vacuum tests and changed the
>> intake plenum gaskets, which he never did. And after two weeks in his
>> shop, he told me it was either my computer, distributor, or timing
belt.
>>
>> Now on to the next mechanic. He had the car for three weeks. He said he
>> did a leak-down cylinder test, compression test, checked the timing,
put
>> in an oxygen censor, and catalytic converter. $800 later, the car still
>> runs terrible at first start-up ,and now the engine is noisier than I
>> remember it to be. The catalytic converter made a difference, there's
>> power getting to the car. When my daughter and I picked up the car, I
>> noticed the engine was warm, so of course, it started fine and ran good
>> all the way home. So they must have run the car just before I got there
>> so I could get it out of their garage, and out of their hair .
>>
>> Today when we tried to start it in our thirty degree temperatures, it
>> will hardly idle, and I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it
>> running. Once the car warmed up, it seemed to run better and then we
>> could shut it off and it started right up and idled fine. Do any of you
>> knowledgeable people out there have any ideas where I can go look now?
>> Perhaps the map sensor? IAC motor? Throttle position sensor, EGR valve?
>> All of these, from what I've read and researched, could possibly be
part
>> of my problem. I know these can all be tested with a volt meter, which
I
>> know how to use. I will probably perform these tests over the weekend.
>> All of these tests were supposed to have been done by both of these
>> mechanics. There are NO codes coming up at all and forgive me if I'm
>> coming off a bit harsh and bitter, but after this much time and
>> money(around $1500), my daughter's car still isn't right. Thanks for
any
>> info or advice.
>>
>> p.s. I know there are good, honest mechanics out there. I just haven't
>> found one yet.
>
> Here's something to consider and try: It may be that an injector is
> leaking down when it sits. That would explain the hard starting and
rough
> idle initially, then starts and runs fine, and starts fine when off for
> only short time (leaky injector would empty out fuel rail over a long
> sitting time, requiring fuel pump to refill and pressurize the rail at
> next startup).
>
> On some forums I have been on, if that is the problem, running a good
> injector cleaner thru a couple of tanks of fuel very often is re****ted
to
> fix the problem. Techron™ or Sea Foam™ - both available at the auto
parts
> store - both are known to work well if that is the problem.
>
> I hope something works for you.
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address
> with the letter 'x')
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