"Randy Pape" <rpape1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:47e48dc9$0$12592$4c368faf@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> thanks , its' worth a try .
> "Bill Putney" <bptn@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:64j4teF2be8a0U1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Randy Pape wrote:
> >> This has been an ongoing problem with my 98 dodge stratus for five
> >> months. This experience with this car proves to me why I never want
to
> >> take my car to a mechanic unless it's absolutely necessary. Five
weeks
> >> and two mechanics later, who were both highly recommended, my car
still
> >> isn't right. This car has a brand new distributor, timing belt, water
> >> pump, EGR valve, PCV valve, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, plug
> >> wires, cap and rotor, oil and filter, coolant temp sensor and
battery.
> >> The original problem started with what I was told was a bad fuel
pump.
> >> Then after that was changed, it turned into a hard-starting, no power
> >> issue. The first mechanic told me he checked the catalytic converter,
> >> which he never did. He also said he did vacuum tests and changed the
> >> intake plenum gaskets, which he never did. And after two weeks in his
> >> shop, he told me it was either my computer, distributor, or timing
belt.
> >>
> >> Now on to the next mechanic. He had the car for three weeks. He said
he
> >> did a leak-down cylinder test, compression test, checked the timing,
put
> >> in an oxygen censor, and catalytic converter. $800 later, the car
still
> >> runs terrible at first start-up ,and now the engine is noisier than I
> >> remember it to be. The catalytic converter made a difference, there's
> >> power getting to the car. When my daughter and I picked up the car, I
> >> noticed the engine was warm, so of course, it started fine and ran
good
> >> all the way home. So they must have run the car just before I got
there
> >> so I could get it out of their garage, and out of their hair .
> >>
> >> Today when we tried to start it in our thirty degree temperatures, it
> >> will hardly idle, and I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it
> >> running. Once the car warmed up, it seemed to run better and then we
> >> could shut it off and it started right up and idled fine. Do any of
you
> >> knowledgeable people out there have any ideas where I can go look
now?
> >> Perhaps the map sensor? IAC motor? Throttle position sensor, EGR
valve?
> >> All of these, from what I've read and researched, could possibly be
part
> >> of my problem. I know these can all be tested with a volt meter,
which
I
> >> know how to use. I will probably perform these tests over the
weekend.
> >> All of these tests were supposed to have been done by both of these
> >> mechanics. There are NO codes coming up at all and forgive me if I'm
> >> coming off a bit harsh and bitter, but after this much time and
> >> money(around $1500), my daughter's car still isn't right. Thanks for
any
> >> info or advice.
> >>
> >> p.s. I know there are good, honest mechanics out there. I just
haven't
> >> found one yet.
> >
> > Here's something to consider and try: It may be that an injector is
> > leaking down when it sits. That would explain the hard starting and
rough
> > idle initially, then starts and runs fine, and starts fine when off
for
> > only short time (leaky injector would empty out fuel rail over a long
> > sitting time, requiring fuel pump to refill and pressurize the rail at
> > next startup).
> >
> > On some forums I have been on, if that is the problem, running a good
> > injector cleaner thru a couple of tanks of fuel very often is re****ted
to
> > fix the problem. TechronT or Sea FoamT - both available at the auto
parts
> > store - both are known to work well if that is the problem.
> >
> > I hope something works for you.
> >
> > Bill Putney
> > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address
> > with the letter 'x')
>
Am I getting you mixed up with someone else or was it this vehicle that
you
last posted that an ignition switch fixed your problem? Sounds to me like
a
temp related "choke" problem. Was the coolant temperature sensor value
checked? Does ambient temp match what coolant temp reads on a car start?
If
ambient temp is really cold and coolant temp reads 200 degrees it will run
very lean and run like crap.Just because someone throws a new switch at it
does not mean it fixed the problem. Check sensor values when cold. If MAP,
TPS, COOLANT are good then look for fuel problems
Glenn
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