you are correct in that the ignition switch fixed the no start condition
but
then i had the no power issue still. so the car was never really fixed
earlier.
"maxpower" <damnnickname@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:UNadncgRvODAb3nanZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> "Randy Pape" <rpape1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:47e48dc9$0$12592$4c368faf@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> thanks , its' worth a try .
>> "Bill Putney" <bptn@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>> news:64j4teF2be8a0U1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> > Randy Pape wrote:
>> >> This has been an ongoing problem with my 98 dodge stratus for five
>> >> months. This experience with this car proves to me why I never want
to
>> >> take my car to a mechanic unless it's absolutely necessary. Five
weeks
>> >> and two mechanics later, who were both highly recommended, my car
>> >> still
>> >> isn't right. This car has a brand new distributor, timing belt,
water
>> >> pump, EGR valve, PCV valve, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs,
plug
>> >> wires, cap and rotor, oil and filter, coolant temp sensor and
battery.
>> >> The original problem started with what I was told was a bad fuel
pump.
>> >> Then after that was changed, it turned into a hard-starting, no
power
>> >> issue. The first mechanic told me he checked the catalytic
converter,
>> >> which he never did. He also said he did vacuum tests and changed the
>> >> intake plenum gaskets, which he never did. And after two weeks in
his
>> >> shop, he told me it was either my computer, distributor, or timing
> belt.
>> >>
>> >> Now on to the next mechanic. He had the car for three weeks. He said
>> >> he
>> >> did a leak-down cylinder test, compression test, checked the timing,
> put
>> >> in an oxygen censor, and catalytic converter. $800 later, the car
>> >> still
>> >> runs terrible at first start-up ,and now the engine is noisier than
I
>> >> remember it to be. The catalytic converter made a difference,
there's
>> >> power getting to the car. When my daughter and I picked up the car,
I
>> >> noticed the engine was warm, so of course, it started fine and ran
>> >> good
>> >> all the way home. So they must have run the car just before I got
>> >> there
>> >> so I could get it out of their garage, and out of their hair .
>> >>
>> >> Today when we tried to start it in our thirty degree temperatures,
it
>> >> will hardly idle, and I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it
>> >> running. Once the car warmed up, it seemed to run better and then we
>> >> could shut it off and it started right up and idled fine. Do any of
>> >> you
>> >> knowledgeable people out there have any ideas where I can go look
now?
>> >> Perhaps the map sensor? IAC motor? Throttle position sensor, EGR
>> >> valve?
>> >> All of these, from what I've read and researched, could possibly be
> part
>> >> of my problem. I know these can all be tested with a volt meter,
which
> I
>> >> know how to use. I will probably perform these tests over the
weekend.
>> >> All of these tests were supposed to have been done by both of these
>> >> mechanics. There are NO codes coming up at all and forgive me if I'm
>> >> coming off a bit harsh and bitter, but after this much time and
>> >> money(around $1500), my daughter's car still isn't right. Thanks for
> any
>> >> info or advice.
>> >>
>> >> p.s. I know there are good, honest mechanics out there. I just
haven't
>> >> found one yet.
>> >
>> > Here's something to consider and try: It may be that an injector is
>> > leaking down when it sits. That would explain the hard starting and
> rough
>> > idle initially, then starts and runs fine, and starts fine when off
for
>> > only short time (leaky injector would empty out fuel rail over a long
>> > sitting time, requiring fuel pump to refill and pressurize the rail
at
>> > next startup).
>> >
>> > On some forums I have been on, if that is the problem, running a good
>> > injector cleaner thru a couple of tanks of fuel very often is
re****ted
> to
>> > fix the problem. TechronT or Sea FoamT - both available at the auto
> parts
>> > store - both are known to work well if that is the problem.
>> >
>> > I hope something works for you.
>> >
>> > Bill Putney
>> > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address
>> > with the letter 'x')
>>
>
> Am I getting you mixed up with someone else or was it this vehicle that
> you
> last posted that an ignition switch fixed your problem? Sounds to me
like
> a
> temp related "choke" problem. Was the coolant temperature sensor value
> checked? Does ambient temp match what coolant temp reads on a car
start?
> If
> ambient temp is really cold and coolant temp reads 200 degrees it will
run
> very lean and run like crap.Just because someone throws a new switch at
it
> does not mean it fixed the problem. Check sensor values when cold. If
MAP,
> TPS, COOLANT are good then look for fuel problems
>
> Glenn
>
>
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